A "cylinder leak down" test (or reasonable facsimile) using compressed air can be done to identify the route by which the compression is escaping. To do a "bona fide" leak down test requires a "percent of leakage gauge". A close approximation of the test can still be done if you have (1)Compressed air available, and (2) a threaded adapter fitting that will screw into the spark plug hole and also receive an air hose, (3) a means of securely locking the crankshaft/flywheel in the "TDC of compression stroke" for the cylinder to be tested. Locking or holding the engine from turning when compressed air is applied to the cylinder is very important, both for personal safety, and, for accurate test results!! Actual testing is simple and amounts to listening to determine where the air is escaping when compressed air is applied to the cylinder through the spark plug hole adapter fitting. As follows: Turn the crankshaft/flywheel to position the piston of the testable cylinder to TDC of the compression stroke. Here's a hint, the valve train for both valves of that cylinder will place the valves in the closed position. you determine this by watching the tappets through the open valve compartment (if applicable) or by watching the valves with the valve cover removed. When both TAPPETS or lifters, are retracted toward the camshaft, and you can detect clearance between the end of valve and the tappet.....lock the flywheel in place so the crankshaft can't turn when air pressure is applied to the cylinder. Failure to securely lock the flywheel against moving could result in personal injury if the crankshaft rotates in reaction to the compressed air applied to the cylinder. In addition to the locking of flywheel, keep your hands away from the flywheel and crankshaft until air pressure is disconnected from cylinder. With the flywheel locked securely, thread the adapter fitting into the spark plug hole (threads are 14mm dia. X 1.25 pitch when you ask for the adapter fitting) and tighten it so it can't leak air. Connect the air hose from a source of compressed air (60psi to 90 psi recommended). IF, there is a loss of compression, you will hear air leaking from somewhere. Carefully determine where the air is escaping by using a 2 foot length of hose or tubing. Place one end of the hose or tube close to an ear (but not inside your ear) and then move the other end of hose to the exit portal of the exhaust system. If air is heard loudly escaping here, the defect is in the exhaust valve or seat. Check the intake valve condition by moving the end of the hose to the throat of the carb (throttle must be held wide open, choke butterfly open, and any crankcase breather hose must be disconnected from the carb, if carb is mounted to the intake manifold). If air is heard loudly here, the defect is in the intake valve or seat. If you do not detect air escaping from either of those places, check to see if you can hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose (or pulse hose if impulse fuel pump is present). If you hear air escaping from the crankcase breather hose, or pulse hose, the defect is in the piston or cylinder wall. Always remove the compressed air supply from the cylinder before unlocking the flywheel. A leaking head gasket serious enough to cause loss of compression would be obvious without any test equipment, and you know it right away when the engine is running.

When first into daylilies, it was hard to part with anything. It gets easier with time, especially when you see some WONDERFUL performers compared to those fussy ones. Now, those that leave the garden fall into two categories: non-consistent performers: I've gotten rid of beauties like GERDA BROOKER: after 8 years, it had only increased to 4 fans, survived but didn't thrive and bloomed about every other year if I was lucky. PEPPERMINT DELIGHT: absolutely gorgeous bloom, I hated to get rid of this one, but it just didn't like this climate. I sent it back to Texas where it is hopefully happy.SOUTHERN CORAL is another one with a pretty face that was a southern belle. I could go on! Then there are some that I just get tired of after a few years. Maybe they don't turn out to be as thrilling as they looked in the catalog or maybe they were sent as a bonus. They perform well but some just leave here because they are boring. Believe it or not, some were mentioning just getting FASHION POLICE. I'm thinking about getting rid of it. I'm also motivated to keep downsizing before my garden is on regional tour in 2012 - want to get the numbers down to under 700, wouldn't mind if it is closer to 600. After having 1000 at one time, it becomes a lot to take care of and maintain in a display garden as one gets older.

It should be on page 42 of the manual. I don't have that camera. It looks like you press the broken lightning bolt button until you get an icon I can't see very well. You may not be able to disable it in all modes, but I think you probably can. In order to be able to read the manual, I downloaded the one for the A520 on the Canon site (click on Product/Software Manuals), save it in a folder, then rename and back off the extra text until you get to .pdf. Keep that and open in Adobe Acrobat. I don't know the why of that. It downloads as PSA520510CUG-EN.pdfWWUCDownloadFromAkamaServlet What a mess. Also, I couldn't get the right screen in IE, and I had to use Netscape to download. What have they done now? Maybe I need to upgrade my Acrobat Reader. I was able to read the manual. Your friend should have one that came in the box with her camera. If not, help her figure out how to download one. She can print it out. Somehow. May have to burn it onto a cd and take it to someplace like Kinko's. Here is a link that might be useful: Canon Download Library

First off, you have picked a very unsafe way to test for power. Give it up before it becomes a habit. How about a loose or broken neutral wire? After all, if you lose the neutral, you will not have a complete path for current flow. The problem could be at an outlet that is still working, so turn off the breaker (manually, not by grounding out the hot) and determine where all receptacles are for this circuit. Turn the power back on & see if some are still working . With the power off, examine the neutral connections at these receptacles, there is a good chance you will find the problem. Tom