extension cords

13 years ago

I just read the following: "Article 400 of the NEC specifically forbids the use of extension cords as a substitute for permanent wiring. The U.S. Office of Compliance limits the use of an extension cord for any single application to 90 days."

Does that mean that If I have a lamp on a dresser and the cord isn't long enough to reach the outlet, that I can't use an extension cord? Does it mean that I have to rewire all plug in items when the cord is too short? Is my power strip that all my computer stuff plugs permanently into illegal also?

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Comments (9)

wayne440
13 years ago
It depends on the context and credibility/authority of the writer.

For instance - "The US dollar is worthless, send all of yours to me". Are you going to?

Cite your source and then perhaps a more useful answer will be forthcoming.
randy427
13 years ago
U.S. Office of Compliance ????
Never heard of them, outside of a couple of urban legends.
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It does boggle the mind. I rented a place with a cord under the carpet that then ran to another outlet...up through the masonry and everything so it was a sort of 'professional' job, and let me tell you, until I spotted that cord (and even after) it had a pretty hard life. People walked on it, furniture crushed it, you name it. It was far from protected, but certainly 'insulated' if it overheated, but not insulated in a way you'd want! A guy I worked for had a door buzzer on the office door, and it was powered by speaker wire running between the carpet and the wall, jammed in there. That in itself might have been ok, even the electrical tape splices might have been ok, but in spots he thought it'd be really *neat* to run the wire along the nail/spike strip, you know, the wooden strips with the nasty spikes that hold carpet down at the edge? Naturally, spikes had penetrated the wire in places (240v) so some of those spikes were, I guess live. I was appalled. Later on, I discovered the wiring in many of the desks (desks had wired in outlets and light boxes that ran to plugs and outlets) had single insulated wiring or even exposed push-on terminals and exposed terminals on some of the fluoro ballasts, I discovered by accident reaching under and feeling these terminals... I persuaded the boss it would be in his and Workcover's best interest to get a sparky in to fix things. SParky was appalled, boss just left it to me to show him the danger spots since he didn't seem to understand at all how dangerous the situation was. Sparky suggested an RCD (GFCI) one of the ones that protects all the circuits, I was adamant we should have one, and, ironically, it saved the life (probably) of that same boss who, in his wisdom later 'demoted me' - ended up tripping the GFCI twice, once (I kid you not) putting a knife in a live toaster, the second time, adjusting a thermostat in an electrically heated splicer, that was still turned on. Guy almost Darwin Awarded himself twice later on with motorcycles, the second time he pretty much julienned himself hitting one of those steel cable guard rails....was lucky to survive, was triple lucky to retain his limbs. Here is a link that might be useful: Darwin Awards
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On tippy toes I can't reach all of the breaker switches on the panel, darn. Have to admit I had also put one of the laundry baskets on top of the freezer, so an extra impediment, albeit removeable. But we could put a stepstool under the laundry sink nearby (just to the right of the washer). At least we don't have chewing pets! Before this, we've always had some narrow-ish steel shelving under the breaker panel... also had laundry baskets on top of that & they had to be removed to get at the panel. Finally found specs on label inside the door of the washer: 12 amps, 120 volts, 60 Hz. So if the freezer happened to be 5 amps, then total is 17 amps and surpasses 15 amps of the extension cord?? Anyway for now the extension cord in question has been seconded for a new use: for a 3-tiered fluoro plant growing setup (Floralight I think; originally from Lee Valley) that I got second hand; now can transplant my 'maters! That is in another room & extension cord was needed since each of the 3 fluoro lights has its own cord/prongs. Had to take up the whole outlet receptacle in that spot because of that downward orientation of the cord out of the prong part... would be stressed by location of the recepacle to put it in the bottom outlet because it runs into "sitting" area of fireplace jutting out from the wall just under the outlet. But I digress... Except that now to plug in the freezer, if indeed it stays where it is (& I can't think of another place where it will fit... can't fit it beside the box or it'd block the dryer), we'd need to buy another extension cord... so then if we did go ahead, would a 20 amp one be better as per rtscoach's post early on? I guess I still have to "find out what is on the circuit"... if only 15 amps then would a 20 amp cord be too much?? Boy this would be a good time if I had time to "study up" on general electricity/wiring info, but I wouldn't trust my own studying on this!
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"NOTE: When operating cordage close to it's rated ampacity be sure it's in free space. I had one coiled up on a reel to run the freezer in the garage. I found that it had permanently stuck itself together in the coiled shape." Ron is correct, however, the coiled up extension cord - whether on the ground, or on a reel, is now an inductor and will heat up (and may melt) very quickly under load. It's not as much an issue with "free space" to cool the wire as much as it is a need to eliminate the inductive effects caused by the extension cord being in a coil.
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At first I thought that there was no way that this product was UL Listed, but according to the HD Website, it is! BUT, the details on the website state, “for temporary power at events and tradeshows.” So that is the intended use and it is probably not approved for any other use, including semi-permanent installation under a rug in a home. The new code requires Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter Circuit Breakers for many circuits including living rooms and bedrooms. This is because people do stupid things with extension cords, such as run them under rugs. The friction eventually can cause an arc fault and a fire. Most existing homes do NOT have these circuit breakers in the electrical panel. I would not recommend placing any electrical cord under a rug in a home. Have you considered trying to power your lamps with batteries? A quick internet search turned up this website: https://www.pneumaticaddict.com/2021/10/how-to-make-almost-any-lamp-cordless.html?m=1
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hrajotte
13 years ago
Regardless of the OP's quote (which sounds like horse dung), extension cords are intended for temporary use. I don't know if this is actually cited in Article 400 or not. That is why the NEC has specific receptacle spacing requirements - so a device with a standard 6 foot cord can reach a receptacle without the need for an extension cord.
Extension cords that are not overloaded, and kept out of harm's way (not under rugs, getting slammed in doors, chewed by pets, etc.) will probably not cause a problem, but they are still meant for temporary use.
Many house fires are caused by overloaded or frayed extension cords, especially in hot and cold temperatures when people use air conditioners or space heaters.
I don't think you need to worry about your computer power strip. Just be sure that the cord is protected from damage, and that unused receptacles are blocked off with child-proof caps. On some power strips, you can rotate the unused reeptacles 90 degrees to block them off. This helps defend against spilled drinks, curious pets, etc.
brickeyee
13 years ago
"...so a device with a standard 6 foot cord can reach a receptacle without the need for an extension cord. "

Except there is not such "standard."

The Office of Compliance is a Congressional office that is their version of OSHA (since OSHA has no jurisdiction over Congress) for workplace safety rules ... like extension cords.

Neither they nor OSHA have any jurisdiction over residences, except the extent you may have employees working in your home.
hrajotte
13 years ago
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that a 6-foot cord was somehow mandated. Please substitute "popular-length" for "standard."
steve_o
13 years ago
There's also some difference between "extension cords" and power supply strips with fuses or circuit breakers. An extension cord will carry electricity to the point of failure either of the device connected to it or the cord itself (melting, arcing, etc.). A power supply strip has a breaker which is designed to kill the electrical supply to devices connected to it in the event of an overcharge/overdraw on either end. Our city will not permit extension cords as code, but they will permit fused/breakered power strips.
brickeyee
13 years ago
"Our city will not permit extension cords as code, but they will permit fused/breakered power strips."

Sounds like 'innovative' code interpretation.

If the power strip is fastened in place every AHJ I deal with requires it to be hard-wired.

It is very hard to enforce rules against extension cords, since temporary is in the eye of the use.

An AHJ will have a very hard time proving a cord is not temporary (unless they find it caked with dust maybe).
steve_o
13 years ago
I did not speak accurately when I said power strips met "code" -- a power strip is an allowable exception to (local) code which does not require a formally-requested, approved variance. Our inspector told me they did not write up power strips as a potential fire hazard as they would extension cords.

It might very well be "creative", but in the older housing stock around here (lots of houses from the late 1800s through the 1930s), outlets aren't exactly in profusion though electricity-demanding devices certainly are. Better a breakable link than a wire which has few limits on what it can carry.
brickeyee
13 years ago
"It might very well be "creative", but in the older housing stock around here (lots of houses from the late 1800s through the 1930s), outlets aren't exactly in profusion though electricity-demanding devices certainly are."

1800s is still pretty new stuff.

Even using strips (with their less than reliable breakers) is pushing things an awful lot.

Most of the strips are Chinese made and very poorly done.

I have added additional receptacles and outlets in houses dating to the 1720s with little damage or trouble.

It just takes more time to fish instead of tearing into walls to gain access.

The 3-story town houses are often the worst though.

By combining a plumbing update with an electrical update a single lower floor stud cavity can be opened and all the upgrades run to the upper floors, then branched out using the attic.

It does take some special equipment though.

I have drill extensions over ten feet long in 48 inch pieces (with a few 24 inch sections thrown in) long before flex bits cam on the market.

I can drill with a hole saw over 8 feet away for larger cables.

extension cords

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wayne440

randy427

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