need to know a few things, the ceiling height first. then determine the lamp (bulb) to be used to deliver adequate fc (footcandles) on the work surface. usually 50fc. The positon of the cans really depends on the floorplan cabinet layout. Please post

1) a transformer, sometimes called an isolating transformer, does not "share" a current from the line side to load side. There can be a ground fault on the load side, and the current on the line side will still follow its normal path and not trip a GFCI. 2) It is normally correct, but so was your original statement. 3) "Lastly, do you agree that any typical device running off a transformer is going to be dc powered and, thus, not pose a significant shock hazard to the user?" --- NOT EVEN CLOSE. A transformer does not change the current from AC to DC. For practical purposes, the current on the load side will match the hertz, wave form, and every little power surge (proportionately) that the line side has. Doorbells, sprinkler systems, and normal landscape lighting are all AC, just lower voltage. Per the distance requirements in the NEC for both low voltage and line voltage lighting around swimming pools, a 120V GFCI protected luminaire can be closer than a standard low voltage system.... because the low voltage is not as safe. If you study pools and spas (680.22), and low voltage lighting (411), you will see that a 120 volt, GFCI protected luminaire can be closer to a swimming pool than normal low voltage landscape lighting. This is because low voltage lighting has its own unsafe drawbacks due to the transformer. The breaker will not trip if the current is shorted to ground on the load side like a standard 120V circuit would, and it will not trip a GFCI either. There are some special transformer/control boxes that can be used for low voltage lighting closer to swimming pools. They basically have their own separate over-current/short circuit protection integrated into the unit for the load side, along with load a load side GFCI.

For starters You selected material that is extremely difficult to install for a first project. Actually difficult for many contractors. You plan to purchase a wet saw that is junk and will make things more difficult. You want a moving tray for mosaics. Spend a bit more now. It's worth it. I strongly suggest the Porta cable for a small saw. This link will give you a demo. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=PORTER-CABLE+PCE980+Wet+Tile+Saw+video&&view=detail&mid=C85BA5FCA3572B55A79DC85BA5FCA3572B55A79D&&FORM=VRDGAR&ru=%2Fvideos%2Fsearch%3Fq%3DPORTER-CABLE%2BPCE980%2BWet%2BTile%2BSaw%2Bvideo%26%26FORM%3DVDVVXX Yes you will cut individual pieces around the outlet unless you plan on purchasing a angle grinder with diamond blade also. Don't forget to notch for screws. You need a lot of wedges. A good rubbing stone or diamond pad as all cuts need to be smoothed prior to installation. Determine which type of sealer you prefer and apply 2 coats prior to grouting without getting the sealer into the grout joints. How will the ends be finished? I urge you to hire a professional for this project as it will test your patience. If the material was purchased at a box store most pros won't touch it. Odds are the quality of material will also add to the difficulty factor. If you go for it I wish you luck.

I agree that using RTA cabinets makes no sense if one is having a GC do your kitchen. As I posted, the savings for RTA is when a homeowner is doing the assembly since they are saving on labor costs. If your GC is assembling them you are paying a lot of money for that and you would be better off purchasing a better middle of the road cabinet line, In my experience, the factor that drives up remodeing costs especially in a high cost of living area like New York City area is LABOR. With a small kitchen or bathroom the cost of the materials is less significant and is one of the positive aspects of having a small space - one can splurge on higher end finishes because the incremental cost is relatively insignificant and labor is more or less the same for nicer or even luxury finishes. I realized this when I priced out tile and the cost between the tile I loved and the tile that would have been a compromise was minimal and the cost of labor remained constant. Also as I posted the cost for doing a small kitchen in a multi-family condo is going to be vastly more expensive than doing the identical kitchen in a single family home even in the same area because there are all kinds of costs that are added. Not to mention that many GC will not work in a condo/coop although there are probably more with that kind of experience in a place like NYC where there are more multi-family condos.