We are remodeling and have a great room with kitchen dining hall and living room in one space. The ceiling peaks at 21 feet and then slopes over the living and kitchen areas. We will have four recessed can lights over the kitchen and 13 over the living area. There will be pendant and track lights in the kitchen too. Our question is do we need directional canned lights on those slopes ceilings or can we just use the recessed lights we will use in the rest of the house? We did not put in housing units for gabled ceilings. Also do all adjustable LED can lights have those ugly pixelated plastic bulb covers? Do any have frosted plastic bulb covers like our other LED cans? see below for photo Thank you for any help.

Yes, it will be "fine" ....but it could be better, because most of the light will be illuminating floor space instead of the the front of the counters/stove (where most of your work takes place, so you generally want that as well lit as possible) or the cabinet interiors. Undercabinet lights will have to overcome the shadow that will be cast by having the ceiling lights behind you, so you have less illumination than you might - and still, only if you make sure that they are installed at the front of the cabinets, not back next to the wall as most contractors will do. That is what the lighting design pro that I paid for emphasized to me. It will be very easy for your installer follow that plan, but just position the lights over the edge or just off the edge of the counters. He will just have to use a few inches more wire for each light.

Since you plan to always have a table in the space, I would put a pendant light over the table. With a vintage table in a new kitchen, there is an opportunity to pull the two styles together with a light fixture that is inspired by the mid-century aesthetic but is new so it doesn’t look dated. A light with a drum shade came to mind so I searched the Home Depot website for ‘drum pendant light’ and I think there were over 1,000 results but I put a few pics below. The photos that you posted are very helpful because I can see that the floor plan is staying mostly the same except that you are adding additional cabinets to the corner where the table used to be located. I would suggest adding blue painters tape to the floor to mark out the new cabinets. And maybe fill in the space with some boxes so that you can visualize the floor space (and air above it) that will be remaining for the table. Then try the table in different locations over several days, making sure that it’s still comfortable when everybody is seated and getting up/down from the table, etc, and that you can comfortable open the fridge, etc. After you know exactly where you want the table, you will know where the light should be located. You can even try one of the plug-in type pendant lights over the table to see how you feel about having a light there (see last pic also from Home Depot.). If you ever decide to eliminate the table, you can always change this pendant light to a recessed light since the wiring will be there. The only negative is that it will be on a separate switch, assuming that’s the plan. You could also consider a smaller matching pendant over the kitchen sink to further coordinate the vintage table with the new kitchen. Regarding the table repair, that looks like Formica, which is generally glued using contact cement. A coat is rolled onto each surface and then after it has dried to tacky (not stringy) the two surfaces are carefully pressed together, and then rolled with a j-roller (a rolling pin might make a good substitute in a pinch.). There is no need for clamps afterwards because the bond is extremely strong. Usually when new countertops are fabricated, the Formica is cut big and after it is adhered to the surface, it is trimmed with a router. It is tricky to re-glue something that is already cut to size but it can be done. I haven’t checked, but I have no doubt that there are YouTube videos showing how it’s done. You can probably look up videos for new countertop fabrication as well as videos showing repairs.

If you consider two people working, having the sink and cooktop back-to-back creates bumping and blockage. Use your software to add another person and you'll see the problem. A large main sink on the island is more of a last resort for spaces smaller than yours. It's better than putting the cooktop on the island. Work zone 4" leds can be placed 6" in from the edge of the counter with two offset for where you'll be prepping. The exhaust hood can have lights for the range area. 450 lumens minimum at the counter in the kelvin temperature you like. 3500k is one. Home - DMF Lighting