Based on your description the red wire seems to be the switched one. Cap off the black on in the ceiling box and connect both the black and blue wires from the fan to the red wire. Of course, you'll connect white to white and green to ground.

I've attempted wiring with both alternatives attempted; one time capped yellow wire, the other time purple was capped. It looks like I'm on positive side this time but not sure to see it as complete. Better than previous experience - that circuit breaker did not trip so power to the room remain intact. I did not finish my entire work of fixing fan yet but attempting only to see if wiring works. So, the best test I see is to see if the light will turn on and next step is if possible to see if fan motor turns with out blades fixed. Every time I turn on the switch I see lights flash and go off irrespective of what I'm doing with remote (yes, each time). Reference Video: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5s...piZ2ZEclE/view Quick internet read relates mentioning: I've attempted 1 and then 2 CFL bulbs each of 13 watts, each light holder on fan indicates max 14 w can be attempted. I've to attempt 9W LED bulbs that came along, may be that can indicate something to me. In general what I expected is lights will stay on and relate to remote actions. And so fan motor may turn if I do so on remote. I think all remaining work is mechanical (like fix blades and give it a final shape). I'm also sure remote battery is as new as fan came along fan package and so far not yet clicked more than 10 times. This is making me to think to think if I can move ahead finish all of it and then attempt. Any one sensing problem with that flashing or that flashing light indicate everything is going to be good when done? Thank you all and any insights is very much appreciated.

The 14-3 my guess is runs from fixture box to switch. The 14-2 my guess is runs from fixture box to can lights. Does your fan have a light? If this is a new fixture, there should be instructions as to what color wire controls what. More important for what controls the fan and what controls the light. So you wire your fan switch to the red on the 14-3, then wirenut the red wire to the wire that powers the fan (typically black) if there is a light. If no light with the fan then wirenut the red wire to the black wire on the fan. For the light switch, if the fan has a light so you would wire the switch to the black on the 14-3, then wirenut the 14-3 black, the fan light power wire (typically blue) and the outgoing black on the 14-2 going to the can lights. If the fan has no light then just wirenut the 14-3 black to the 14-2 black. For the whites, wirenut them all together. Same with greens. This is all assuming your incoming power originates at the switch. If it originates at the fixture box that is a whole different ballgame. More info https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/wiring_diagram_ceilingfan.html Another note: You cant use a light dimmer on a fan. It will cause the motor to make horrid noises and potentially burn out if left on low a long time while making said horrible noise. Use a fan dimmer, they are in the fan accessory section at the hardware store not the light switch section. Fan dimmers have preset selections, Lo, Med, and Hi. That is what you would look for.

The bulb in this socket draws enough current that the spurious voltages will not occur. I assume that there are two black/white pairs which come from the breaker box. It's easy to see which black is which. First, connect the white on this socket to the twisted whites and touch the black on the test light to each of the blacks and see if any of the blacks are hot. Once you have confirmed that at least one white/black pair is powered, turn off that breaker and make these temporary connections more secure (not just touching live wires). Turn the breaker back on and then turn on and off the likely wall switches. If none of the switches make the test light go off, then you have found a source of power. Repeat the above for all the black wires and see if any of them are switched. Finally, and I'm not sure about the following test, but if one of the black wires never shows power, it must go to another light fixture or receptacle. Connect your test light between the black power source and this unknown black wire. If your test light glows, then that black wire goes to something which draws current (perhaps a ceiling light with an incandescent bulb in it), and you can figure out what that is by observation. If it doesn't glow, then take another test light, put a regular plug on it, and plug it into each of the likely receptacles. If this second test light glows, then the two lights are in series and you know where this unknown wire goes and you can nut it to the power source wire (or to the switched wire, if you want that receptacle switched). One thing I don't know is how to trace out the white wires. If each of them act as a reliable neutral, then maybe it doesn't matter. If it does matter, I don't know how to identify which is which. Sorry for this long response; I hope I'm clear.