Cauliflower is relatively easy to grow. Plant, water and pick! If you get cabbage looper caterpillars, since you only have six plants, you can just go out every day and hand pick them off. If that's too much, then you can spray with BT (bacillus thuringiensis), which is lethal to caterpillars, but not to us! I use a general purpose organic fertilizer at planting and don't use any extra later. I also mulch around the plants to keep moisture levels even. If you have snails, use a product called Sluggo, it's safe around people and pets, but once again, lethal to snails! I'm trying the Cheddar cauliflower myself this fall, so guess we will see how it turns out. Good luck! Elaine

Hi springrose: I put MG-moisture control potting soil (denser than your potting soil) in my 10-gallon Smart-Pot yesterday, dumped a 5-gallon water into that .. was VERY IMPRESSED at how fast it drains. Then I put the same soil into a 2-gallon plastic pot (tons of holes at bottom), dumped a 2-gallon water into that, the water was floating above for a while .. even with wooden-planks to elevate the pot. So I took hubby's drill and drill more holes on the side of that plastic pot. Yes to gypsum .. the year which I forgot put gypsum into pots it was a blackspot fest. But the years which I put 1 cup of gypsum per 3-gallon soil, roses were healthy. Gypsum is calcium sulfate at pH 6.8, and calcium is essential for root-growth and thicker-tissue to prevent pests and fungal infection. The granular gypsum is slower release, and that's what you want. Roses Unlimited recommended gypsum, plus lime in the hole if the soil is acidic. My favorite granular fertilizer to mix into the planting hole is Tomato-Tone or Rose-tone, I prefer Tomato-Tone since it's higher in potassium & higher calcium. Rose tissue analysis is equal nitrogen to potassium, 1/2 calcium, and 1/10 phosphorus. Potassium is just as important as nitrogen. Tomato-Tone has more green sand (slow-release potassium) than Rose-tone. Espoma Tone is sold everywhere for $10 per 5 lb. I use 1 cup per 3 gallon of soil. The year which I put Tomato-Tone in the planting hole, my tomato produced many times more within our short-growing zone 5a summer. I just dug up a hole which I put Tomato-Tone & leaves few weeks ago, there more earthworms than hole with leaves, or hole with alfalfa meal. I put a few earthworms along with 1/2 cup of Espoma Tomato-tone and 1/2 cup of gypsum for my 2-gallon plastic pot. I reduce the dosage since my tiny bands are so small, less fertilizer is best .. both Roses Unlimited and Chamblee recommended only SOLUBLE fertilizer, no granular for 1st-year own-root, so alfalfa meal would be safer for tiny roots than Espoma tone's. Since Smart-Pot dries out faster plastic, I would prefer alfalfa-meal or Standlee alfalfa pellets over Tomato-Tone. Why? alfalfa-meal retains moisture better, and safer on the root of 1-gallon own-root in hot Texas climate. The pic. of 1st year own-root Scepter'd Isle which I posted in 100 degree heat had alfalfa meal in the planting hole. Alfalfa meal has calcium plus NPK of 3-1-2, but a tiny bit of SOLUBLE sulfate of potash would help for root-development. Gypsum is not best when one's soil is acidic, thus the calcium in alfalfa meal is safer. That pic. is in Nancy Rose's thread below: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3880697/need-help-for-my-austin-rose-scepterd-isle?n=3

Thanks Cory You can try grafting one of your fruiting scions to one of your seedling of its own cultivar. I tried grafting the top of my tangerine tree to the base so I could get fruit from my manageable seed grown tangerine tree. If it had worked I would be getting fruit now. A tree on its own roots will grow much better than a tree on foreign roots. Thanks Vladimir I hope for the best for you and your tree. Grafting is not hard to do but due to nerve damage it is not doable for me with out great expenditure of time. The only grafting I'll continue on will be for Items that can't be purchased anywhere because they don't exist. Here in Cincinnati we have a group called "Ground Works" Cincinnati branch. I have found someone that will graft pear scions to weed Bradford pear seedling for fruit trees in the inner city. The group has found that store bought fruit trees have to many problems with their available rootstock and do poorly in a none orchard environment. These trees will do well along our Mill creek watershed. 6b Steve, Cincinnat

Good you found a solution...perhaps painting the trunks from day one will have less problems.