Take it from me what CR says about Thermador wall ovens is absolutely true. I have purchased two 30" C series Thermador ovens and am getting ready to replace the one that was existing in the home we purchased last year. Loved the way my Thermador's cooked, baked, and broiled but had to have them repaired. It seems there is insufficient insulation between the oven and the electric control panel and when you use the self clean, over time, it causes the control panel to fail. This is a minimum $1,000 repair. I live in Dallas and there is only ONE company in this area that will service Thermador ovens because Thermador service dept is so difficult to deal with. My regular service company which is efficient and costs are fair told me they stopped servicing Thermador ovens for that reason and three others I tried said the same thing. Both my Thermador ovens needed the control panel replaced within three years of purchasing and the one in our new home could not pass inspection and had to be repaired by the seller before we moved in - yep it was the panel and it cost them $1,200. They didn't cook and it was an older oven. The space we have for the wall oven is 27" and after looking and looking and doing research and reading here and other web sites with independent reviews by actual owners we have chosen the Miele Master Chef Classic Series which has the Novatronic controls which everyone seems to love. This choice was made in part because of the rotisserie feature which we do use quite a bit along with other features we liked and which were well reviewed. It was more expensive but we went with a straight Microwave which suites our needs and we chose the Electrolux Ei27MO45TS microwave which meets all our needs and was well reviewed. Went with the Miele warming drawer because of the match and the fact that it was the same price as most other warming drawers we were considering. We stack our ovens in an unusual way which we really like with the actual wall oven first, then the microwave, and then the warming drawer. It is logical to us because the heaviest items come out of the oven and having it at the top means no stooping and it's easier on the back. We usually only use the warming drawer when we entertain and to reheat leftovers which it does so much better than a microwave. Still trying to decide on which Fridge and Freezer columns to choose but that's another forum

I would do stainless or brushed nickel. White with your colors would call too much attention to the air switch, and could stain or discolor over time. Or you could do what we did and select a batch disposal, which has the "switch" in the stopper. Nothing else to match, buy, & put a hole in your countertop. We have the Insinkerator Evolution in both our main cleanup sink & island prep sink. Its stopper is stainless & has three positions: pushed down to hold water, set with a gap to let water & small bits drain, or you give it a quarter turn either way to run the disposal. We also park the stopper on the sink grid or on the ledge just above the drain. There's no gunky flap around the drain to mess with either.

Your GC doesn't know?! Make him call/visit the permitting authority and ask. Give him the DW model and a copy of the install sheet (I think that's where Miele puts the info) explaining why how the Miele works negates the need for an air gap. Make him earn his money by finding this out for you since he should know. If he won't do it, go in yourself armed with the info. Write down what was told to you and by whom along with the date you visited. That way when inspection is done, you have back-up if inspector questions it. Sorry....I GC'd my whole house reno so I feel the homeowner is entitled to know the laws. Side note: My municipality supposedly enforces the make-up air requirement, like most states do, for range hoods over 400cfm. I put in a 600cfm beauty and no one along the inspection path ever asked me about it at all, other than to admire it. I was a bit worried, but it turned out fine. I was really quite shocked at how little the final inspector looked around and enforced code. My island outlets weren't to code, but the inspector never once looked at them. It was a cursory 5 minute glance through my house, and he was gone. Long story short--your inspector might not even care about the air gap.

I wasn't quite sure what you were asking until you later clarified. I guess I usually move over when there isn't traffic. So many people just don't know how to merge it's a way for me to eliminate frustration. Actually I usually stay in the middle or left lane to eliminate merging issues like this too. And I seldom use cruise control. It wasn't until the vehicle I got about 12 years ago or so that was the first vehicle I ever had with cruise but living in a climate that has winter, I found that cruise isn't something I use much for several reasons but that's another topic. SO, back to the initial question! Although I would probably move over, I'd also likely speed up a bit or if they're moving up enough to obviously give some speed I'd let them go in front of me. Occasionally I get "people" (and I'll refrain from calling them what I want to call them!) who play chicken, so I try to avoid it. I run into it a lot around here when there's a lane ending and someone tries to get that extra car length... It's frustrating but the older I get the more I try to make it not bother me. The piece of driving advice that sticks in my mind is from a friend's father who told his son "Drive like the other guy is crazy!" Best advice I ever heard.