I just installed KM antique oatmeal w/ ebony glaze. I LOVE them!! I was reluctant about my decision, but I am very happy with my choice. There are portions of the cabinets where the ebony glaze is more prevalent, but that is what I like about them. It gives them a more Old World feel. I will have to say that are more whitewashed looking than I expected. They look much darker in the KM idea book. You will have to be careful when picking paint colors and countertops. I went with Silestone-black canyon for the cabinets. Granite didn't work for me. The island will be antique onyx cabinets with a butcherblock counter. I really don't have much to show yet as just the cabinets are in, no counters, molding or appliances. I bought a majority of my cabinets at the KM outlet in Lordstown, OH for a steal. I'm not sure I would have paid the extra $$. Hope this helps.

Watboy, that is almost two thousand a foot, way too high unless it is Habersam. Find a local customer cabinetmaker in the phone book, preferably one that also does countertops of all kinds. That way there is no finger pointing on issues. Kitchen dealers are ordering factory cabinets and marking them up, they have to to cover their services. For some people, a designer is the way to go, we refer people to designers from time to time rather than doing their work. Big box stores are using guys like me and again marking up their work, or getting it at a low margin. Regardless, a custom shop will build you better cabinets and get them done quicker. Find one that also installs, again, no finger pointing. Expect prices to start around $300 per foot installed for some pretty basic cabinets. If you want Kraft maid quality, expect $400 to $500 per foot (those are some really nice cabinets in that price range). If you want Habersham type work, expect closer to $1,000 per foot, with about one third going into the finishing process. Solid surface, Corian is only one brand, runs from the high twenties to the mid seventies per square foot, installed. Any edge that can be polished with a machine should be no extra charge. If hand work is needed for ogee edges or the like, expect five or six bucks a linear foot. Sink and cooktop cutouts should be free, expect sinks to run from $275 to $500 depending on brand. There are some brands of solid surface to avoid. Bad material, bad warranty response on problems, or a history of bankruptcies by the parent company. Ask the fabricators which brands they sell, and which brands are kept hidden inside a cabinet somewhere. Samsung is an excellent brand, as is the LivingStone that others mentioned. Solid surface sinks don't stain, if they do that is a warranty issue. Most likely the fabricator switched a cheap china sink for the manufacturers good sink. An unscruplous fabricator can pocket a few hundred bucks on a job doing that. Yes, there are different finishes or polishes on solid surface. Matt finish is the best for durability, 60 micron sandpaper then a scotchbrite buffing. Satin is 60 micron, 30 micron, then scotchbrite buffing. Satin brings out the darker colors in a sheet. Gloss finish usually is not recomended for kitchens unless you are willing to put up with tiny scuffs when viewed in the right light. There is an exception, 100% polyester solid surfaces that can be sold high gloss. Still, a perfectionist won't be satisfied, but neither will they be happy with granite with its natural flaws. Light colors show abuse less, dark colors are a big no no cause like a black car, they show every little ding and scratch. Scratching, well we have a couple of tops that were pulled out under warranty after 9 1/2 years in a home, one bad sink. They look like new, but it was a neutral color. In about eight years of fabrication of solid surface tops, we have had seven calls to fix a scratch, and we don't charge for the service. It is a really rare occasion, a coffe mug with an abrasive bottom or a plumbers metal tool box are the usual culprits. We tell people to take a sheet of 220 grit sand paper, tape it down, and wiggle their ceramic ware back and forth several times. Problem solved. So, like other materials, solid surface isn't a perfect material for a countertop, but there are fewer complaints from customers than the other materials. In my opinion, it is the best material available as long as you don't pick a black, dark green or dark blue. It is 100% non porous, uses FDA approved materials, has a NSF51 rating for countertop use, sinks can be intergrated with no seams or cauling needed, shouldn't be a charge for cutouts or common bullnose edges, the horizontal seams should be nearly invisible, you can make backsplashes that match or even window sills, it is available in half sheets (15 square feet) which means less waste and thus less cost, it is pretty consistent so no need to visit a slab yard or worry that someone will cut out the pretty part, it can be bleached for sanitation with no harm, common cleaning products won't hurt it, and no matter what is done to it, it can be repaired almost invisibly. No sealing needed, ever. And long warranties that truly mean what they say because the fabricators must be certified to purchase the material. The best thing is that solid surface shops aren't used to the material having flaws that can be blamed "Oh, it is a natural product you know, it is all like that". We tend to be perfectionists and the material is light enough to handle that it can be taken out and scribed if needed. Rodding isn't needed so rod splits don't happen, it doesn't stain or etch but if it did, just sand it out and repolish. Bacteria can't survive on it for long, no crevices, cracks, fissues, pores, pits or caulk seams for them to hide in. The acrylic brands and some of the polyester products are UV stable so no fading like quartz or some granites. It is produced in factories, no child labor involved, no mountains ripped apart, no bonded labor used. No suprises in the chemical content like granite, no radiation, no radon, no cobalt 60, no Polenium, no arsneic or lead or other heavy metals. Uranium can't leach out because there is none to start with. You know who makes it and who will stand behind it, the brand not the fabricator. Everyone who knows me knows I can go on and on on the benefits of solid surface. It isn't as pretty nor as hard as quartz or granite, but it is a safe investment and workers don't develop silicosis working with it and I've never heard of a fabricator getting killed from a sheet of it falling on them. Then after years of service, you buff it up and it looks like brand new. No other material can offer that. No one uses coasters on solid surface, but if that coffee mug will scratch or stain solid surface, it will likely do the same to granite or quartz. Go over to findstone.com and read thousands of granite customers customer complaints, read the dozens of problems here on Garden Web on granite issues, there is no other material that has as many complaints. Less than 30% of the market, with 90% of the complaints. I'll sell it to you and make a good profit. I'll test it first to make darned sure it is a low radiation level stone first. You will like the quality of my seams, installation, and polishing, but when it cracks, stains, or etches, I'll say I told you so. It is just a stone, it came out of the earths crust. Understand that and you will love the stuff. Just my opinion

Several things that were covered to a degree. First, the rails (horizontal parts) and the stiles (verticle parts that the hinges and knobs attach to) have the grain running in different directions, as is normal and necessary. So the rails expand across their width while glued to stiles where the grain runs the other way, so unequal expansion = joint cracks. Mitred doors are worse, as the wood shrinks across the width, the gap between the two peices gets bigger at the inside corner. The constant expansion and contraction eventually will affect the joint. They are pretty doors, but they will not hold up like a good old stick and cope door that is properly made. Usually the large companys have well run finishing schedules with step boards to follow. They ought to be able to replace your existing doors and still match the color. It is worth a shot. As to warpage on doors, yes, lay it flat on a known flat surface, pull the knob and lay it on it's back. Now, almost every door company I have ever heard of has a set of standards on warpage, depending on size. A 1/8" warp is usually not considered defective in a 36" long door. Longer doors are more likely to warp, many companies do not guarantee warpage over a certain length. And if these are screwed to the wall out of level or twisted because one side is level and the other isn't, then the door isn't the problem. Get a level and check the front face on both sides. they ought to be level, or at least the same on both sides.

We had a LOT of problems with CliqStudios. Once we started installing we found numerous quality issues with cabinets - nailed together completely out of square, chipped, very thin - almost transparent - paint coverage in areas, they did not pre-drill holes for screws and MORE than half of the wood drawer supports were split (we had to take them apart, glue them and reassemble), as well as serious problems with depth of cabinets in the design put together by the designer. Cliqstudios replaced all the most serious quality issues at no charge to us and we did some repairs ourselves, but when we discovered problems in the design they refused to do more saying they had done enough to make us happy. ): Seriously? I told our designer that having cabinet doors that would open completely out to fold back against the side of two of our upper cabinets was "an essential part" of our kitchen design. SO much that we would have to purchase the cabinets elsewhere if Cliqstudios cabinet doors could not do that. He sent me a link to hinges and assured me they would. However, he was wrong. 270 degree hinges won't work with faceframe cabinets. He said "My bad" but the company flatly refused to do anything about it. We had to have two custom cabinets made at an additional cost of $1,000. He also ordered all four of the base drawer cabinets on one side of our pass through too deep for our room (six inches deeper than I requested). Would have cost us an additional $3,000 to fix, but we decided to do extra demolition to make them work. He also ordered the side panels for our fridge too short. They needed to be fridge depth. Again, we had a very explicit conversation about in which he advised me we would have to have a frame built to bring the upper cabinet forward if we wanted to do that. We said we did. When they came too short, he actually lied and told me that the deeper panels weren't available when we ordered them and that we could "now" buy the deeper ones. I found a Cliqstudios video online from two years before that showed the deeper panels being a being a better design option. STILL Cliqstudios refused to replace them even though we offered to use one of the shorter ones where it wouldn't show and just have one replaced. We had to re-purchase the deeper panel for $340 more. They acted like they had done us a HUGE favor to ship it for free. Overall, unhappy with Cliqstudios. However, we could not afford the same kitchen with any other company. If you decide to purchase with them, understand that they will not back up ANYTHING verbal. Make sure every single thing you discuss is very CLEARLY in writing. They may not back that up either, but it should help. Don't trust the designer to get the measurements right. Go over every single line item by item. They don't make it easy. The line item description on our inventory only showed the width not the depth of the cabinets/fridge panel (in 2018, maybe they fixed that now.) The secret was in their code for the item. Learn what their codes mean and double and triple check not only the width but the depth of each item. Make sure you order every single thing you need the FIRST time. They will hit you with a $300 shipping fee for just ONE more piece of molding if shipped after. Our designer shorted us in that area too. We had more molding made by the same person who did our custom cabinets. Found out that was WAY cheaper than buying it from Cliqstudios. In retrospect would have ordered all the trim elsewhere. I was so upset we considered a lawsuit and thought about asking our credit card to get involved with helping us get some of our money back, but we were doing the install ourselves and it was just too much to deal with at the time. I still plan to file a complaint with the better business bureau. They supposedly have a warranty but I no longer have confidence that it would be worth anything if we need to use it. Hoping the cabinets hold up! They look good installed....Hope this helps!