In regards to the comment on the compression release, my suggestion was to loosen the rockers a few thousandths- attempt to crank and it should struggle to do so. Hence it has a form of compression release when adjusted properly. Best repair procedure when performing the valve lash service is to inspect what is happening when you are under the cover. Cold engine before adjusting. Verify that valve lift is relatively equal when cranked, rocker bolts, adjustment nuts and set screws are tight and that valve guides protrude from the head relatively equal. You will have to account for the valve seals on the intake (top) valves. The intake valve opens and closes on one cylinder and as that piston travels upward, let it continue 1/4" past top dead center. Various manuals will tell you different settings. .004" intake and .006" on exhaust is generally excepted. That's not to say .003" is too tight as this is what spec is on the singles. Rotate the engine an extra cycle and repeat on the other cylinder. Different set up true, but if that allows you to have a good crank- I'd do it. If not personally seen a worn cam cause a hard crank condition, but I've seen them with a worn lobe cause an engine to become "anemic". If you are still having a hard cranking condition, you could safely jump direct to the starter or do a voltage drop test. Depending what this is on, a belt could be dragging things down on the PTO side of things.

westsider40, With due respect, until you've tried the Zwilling, you really shouldn't judge. I do not disagree that hard anodized aluminum like Circulon heats evenly. ANY aluminum pan will heat quickly because aluminum is a very good conductor of heat. It also dissipates that heat quickly, making for even cooking. That's why it forms the core of clad stainless steel cookware. However, aluminum is not the perfect metal for all pans. The stainless outer and inner layers in clad cookware delay the transfer of heat to the cooking surface, allowing the aluminum middle layer the time to disperse heat throughout the pan. This helps ensure even cooking and benefits large pans like my sauté, where the pan is larger than the induction coil below it. I own many kinds of cookware, from disc bottom stainless to fully clad stainless, hard anodized nonstick and carbon steel. Without exception, this Zwilling pan is the most even heating of them all. It beats out my Mauviel hard anodized aluminum, which is similar to your Circulon. So no, I don't think I'll dump my wonderful Zwilling pan for Circulon. But it is always good to know there are other pans that work well. I did a lot of research when buying new pans for induction. I looked at all the Circulon and Anolon lines. Circulon simply has too few open stock pieces, and none of the ones I wanted. In fact, there's nothing even close to my 3 quart sauté pan. BTW, you chose well by buying Infinite over the other Circulon lines. The rest of them have mixed reviews on induction, with most owners agreeing they just don't work very well. This leads me to believe that Meyer cheaped out and didn't use enough steel in the bases of the pans in the other lines.

I love reading all the replies. Thanks!!!!! We are definitely going with the twin. My Mom reminded me that she has one; it's cute. So, we are using it. We will have to purchase the mattress and bedding but it won't be as much as an investment as originally. PBK has bedding that I really like but I hear that the quality is not as good. Any thoughts on other brands I should check out?

Salt usage and capacity per cubic foot of resin isn't linear. In other words, it takes a lot more salt per cubic foot of resin to get that last bit of capacity. This is the chart I use. The complications with whole house carbon filters come from free chlorine vs chloramine. Free chlorine can be filtered out by a standard carbon filter, while chloramine needs a catalytic carbon filter. Chloramine is chlorine combined with ammonia which is replacing chlorine as a disinfectant. Byproducts of disinfection with chlorine include trihalomethanes which is what is driving the move to chloramine as a disinfectant. To make that point more clear, open up a bottle of bleach... is the smell overpowering and hurts your eyes, etc even in this relatively concentrated form? No. It's not until the chlorine combines with other molecules that it becomes chloramine and then you really smell it. Swimming pools smell strong because of chlorine mixed with organic materials in the water...(as in pee) not because of chlorine itself. I know that this will fall of deaf ears, but I think the residential water filtering industry has gone off the deep end. I have no problem with a basic carbon filter to clean up taste and smell of drinking water, not to mention cleaning up some VOC's and such. I think it's a bit much when people are worried about showering in water with small amounts of free chlorine. In terms of actual risk, I think that removing all of the residual disinfectant prior to a resin bed is probably more of a health risk than showering or bathing in water with some free chlorine. Many people raise the issue of bacteria growing in filters / resin beds / even water pitchers after all of the disinfectant has been removed by a carbon filter. Most of us have spent time in a swimming pool - and Olympic swimmers spend a lot of time in swimming pool. Other than a possible link between absorbing chlorine from the water and being gay, I haven't seen any serious health effects for Olympic swimmers and divers (ok, I am kidding). Put in your water softener. Put a cartridge carbon filter / KDF 55 filter on your drinking water. If you need to loop in a whole house carbon filter later you can - but I don't think you will need to. Just a tip, If this is a DIY job, I've been happy with units I've purchased online from ABC Water. I have no connection to them other than being a satisfied customer. They can put together any system you want. They sell them cheaper through Amazon than on their own website.