I have a Bluestar range top. My experience is that the burners light on 1 to 4 clicks. If there is a pan on the burner it tends to be a 1-2 click light. I believe that the pan contains the gas and blocks drafts. The 22K burners are the quickest to light the simmer burner routinely takes the most clicks to light. I infer that it is related to the amount of gas around the spark (click). The shutter adjustment definitely has an effect on the ease of ignition. My experience with other gas range tops is that as they age (the Bluestar is still new) they become harder to light. This could be probably be migrated by cleaning and adjusting frequently. I had a Wolf (commercial hot plate) that, without a pan on the burner, you had to blow on the burner to get it light. This is just not a big deal for me; I consider it part of the cooking with gas experience. It sounds to me that given your concerns you would be a good candidate for induction.

Very helpful, thanks. It’s really hard for a non-pro to figure out what elements are upcharges and make windows more expensive. We’re looking at Marvin’s Ultimate G2 because of the auto-lock feature (scaredy-cat spouse) but still trying to keep price down at this high end.

You usually pay by the mullion. The 9 over 9 would have twice the mullions as the 2 over 2. I'd guess it might cost an additional $100 or more. It also depends on the width of the mullion and if it has a spacer between the glass. I'm not aware of any manufacturer that publishes prices although Andersen might provide a list price on their website and Home Depot will price several different manufacturers' windows while you wait but you then would have to deal with their hit or miss ordering and delivery methods. Standard sizes (if they exist) are available on manufacturers' websites. Generally, the larger the window, the less the cost per s.f. so it helps to buy fewer but wider windows. The window charts will also mark the window sizes that meet typical emergency escape code requirements for bedrooms but some jurisdictions amend the IRC requirements or enforce a different code.

I bought the 3 bulbs on Amazon. There are apparently 2 kinds of GE grow bulbs, one for flowering stuff (sounded like outdoor kinds of plants) and one for budding and greens. I got the latter, in flood configuration. Screws in like regular bulb, non of those heat-dispersing fans. I like the fact that it's a BR-30 type of bulb, because it fits my lamp perfectly. A P38 would have been a tight squeeze. This bulb is said to last 5 years or 25000 hours, which would be great. I looked at a LOT of lamps before buying this one. The gooseneck feature was the big closer to the deal, as I saw I could aim the lights to where they were needed rather than just point the whole thing at one part of the plants. Got the lamp at BBB. With the 20% coupon, it was the cheapest price for the lamp anywhere I looked. Link to Amazon bulb listing