Do you have extremely hard water? If so, the water hardness may affect the performance of your detergent choices. Normally, more detergent is required to wash laundry in hard water, or the addition of packaged water softener products to both the wash and rinse cycles will help. Detergents no longer contain phosphates, which were previously recommended for hard water. I occasionally add a small amount of Cascade Dishwasher Detergent (up to 1 T. - depending on the size of the load and how dirty the clothes are - to my F&P top loader), along with my detergent to add some phosphates and enzymes to get out grass stains, etc. I occasionally add it to whites to brighten them. Especially if I have been drying them on the clothes lines in the basement, rather than outside where the sun whitens them. Our water is very hard. Water temperature is also a huge factor. I realize we're all supposed to use cold water for washing laundry to "save the planet", but the truth is, hot water is still an effective aid in cleaning clothes (hot water is defined as 120°-140°F in one source I have - warm as 85°-105°F). If you use water that is colder than 65°F, most detergents will NOT activate and clean effectively. Detergent manufacturers and care labels define "cold water" as 80-85°F. A few weeks ago when I checked, our cold water was 62°F, so I knew it was too cold for using a cold water wash. And don't forget, water reaching the washing machine is much cooler than in the water heater (important to remember if you set your water heater on the cool side). Especially that first load if the water heater is a long distance from the washer and the pipes are in an unheated area. Cold water washes generally require detergents designed to be used in cold water - normally liquids. Powders don't dissolve well in cold water, but you can dissolve it in some hot water before adding it to your washer to fix that problem. This would probably take care of the white film problem. Cold water washes often requires more detergent than warm water to get clothes clean. So it's not always the problem of the detergent, but the detergent in combination with water hardness and water temperature. -Grainlady

Sure why not? What smells if not scented? The finished soap, or the soap base? I'd guess the finished soap would smell like the base, or little bit of the oil you add if it has a scent as well. Olive oil is a great skin oil.

I only use SFIC bases, which are top of the line. Lower quality bases won't lather well, or at least, well enough to please me. I buy my SFIC base from Acorn Soap and Candle Supply (on line). To boost lathering, you can also add one tablespoon of caster oil (the same castor oil you buy at a drug store or Wal-Mart) per pound of base. Susan

I just started making M&P soap and I am getting wonderful results. I found someone who makes their own base - all natural with shea butter and goat milk. So rich and creamy. Make your product as all natural and pure as possible and then rave about its goodness! It is too bad that some of the M&P bases have alcohol and wax fillers. That is part of the problem I think. Good for you for having your own online business!