Using a pH meter and lowest pH to kill botulism
cabrita
13 years ago
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ksrogers
13 years agolast modified: 8 years agodigdirt2
13 years agolast modified: 8 years agoRelated Discussions
4 ways to lower and maintain soil pH
Comments (12)Thanks to everyone for the interesting responses. dirtydan, have you had a soil test done to determine why your pH is so high? Unfortunately there is no one in this area that will do a soil test for less than $70 per sample. I recently found a link to University of Mass Amherst that offers soil tests for $13 so I am planning to send them some samples. http://www.umass.edu/plsoils/soiltest/soilbrochure2009.pdf I use home test kits for nutrient and pH. I also have a Hanna pH meter that comes in handy for quick tests. I don't know my native soil composition. Its pretty bad though. It could be described as dense gray clay with some occasional small pockets of white material. When dry, its is normally cracked and coated with a layer of frosty looking crystals that taste like salt. The salty crystals grow up the side of masonry, concrete and stucco walls. When wet, it turns to a slippery slime that will coat the bottom of your boots with a couple pounds of thick clay. It has no vegetative matter whatsoever. I have been prepping my raised beds with compost, sand, clay, fertilizer and various sulfur products to lower pH. Where are you in the Mojave? I am located in the city of Lancaster, CA. This is the high desert north of Los Angeles at about 2,400 ft elevation. We only get about 5 inches of rain per year, most of it is in February. In fact we will probably not see any significant rain here until next fall or winter. The arid conditions are one of the reasons for the high soil pH and lack of organic mater, also the fact that we are almost entirely dependent on alkaline municipal water for irrigation. What are you trying to grow that is having trouble? When I first moved here I put tomatoes, squash, cucumber, melon, and several others in the unamended native soil. They were all killed or stunted from the salt or nutrient deficiencies. Iron chlorosis and micronutrient deficiencies were evident in the plants that didn't die immediately. The only exception were some tomatoes that I managed to save by side dressing with aluminum sulfate and a highly acidified nutrient solution, they remained quite stunted however and suffered from BER. Since I have built raised beds and worked the soil, I have a productive garden and only seem to have problems with cucurbits in beds that have been freshly sulfured, and typical aphid and leaf miner infestations. There are two main reasons as to why sulfur is the preferred material for acidifying soil. 1. Economics Sulfur is one of the most plentiful and inexpensive elements on earth, said to comprise 2% of the mass of the earth. Sulfur is a byproduct of oil and gas refining and there is a massive oversupply of the material, especially in Canada where its is extracted from oil sands during refining. High concentrations are not toxic to vegetables. Cucurbits being the exception. Avoid sulfur contact with the leaf surface of cucurbits. Other possible acidifying agents (some impractical): ammonium nitrate liquid nitrogen urea diammonium phosphate acetic acid hydrochloric acid HCl (also called muriatic acid) phosphoric acid Elemental sulfur has been used for centuries as a fungicide and miticide. I don't know if, or to what extent, it affects beneficial soil fungi. I suppose that a reduction in soil fungi is OK as long as our vegetables are not negatively impacted, and there is no damage to the environment. Once the sulfur it oxidized by soil bacteria I would speculate that soil fungi will return to pre-application population size....See MoreReasons for testing pH of bagged soils: lousy performance
Comments (18)Hi Lyn: I'm glad to hear from you (I miss you, honestly). I posted it in Robert's English rose forum, see the link below. The advantage of red cabbage juice test, which toxcrusadr (a chemist) in the soil forum thinks its a good idea, is: It's more accurate since you can put a large amount of soil, rather than 1 teaspoon like those test-kit sold for $12 at the stores. As the soil soaks in the red cabbage juice for more than 20 minutes, it allows time for elements in the soil to be released. For $1.50 cents (99 cents of distilled water and 50 cents of red cabbage), I can test 10 different samples from various places in my garden, or different bagged soil products, to see which one most alkaline. I used those small plastic applesauce cups to hold samples. When I first tested coffee grounds from my Hubby in red cabbage juice, it was pinkish like acidic potting soil. After 1 hour, the solution was clear at the top, not a single pink trace left. Coffee is a buffer, it neutralizes the soil, as Michaelg informed. I topdressed roses with coffee ground with no problems. Espresso ground from Starbucks is different: it stayed pink and gave my rhododrendrons pink stripes. One pot has MiracleGro Organic potting soil, neutral pH. At first Sonia Rykiel was dark green, but after 3 months of akaline tap water at pH of 8, she became very yellow. I tested her soil again in red cabbage juice, same color as my soil (pH 7.7), bluish green. The fish-tank litmus strips sold at Walmart for $5 is a fast way to test one's water. It's more accurate in the alkaline range, and NOT so in the acidic rain. I would NOT use it to test the pH of rain water, reported at 5.7, which explains why the roses in my alkaline soil are dark green in the spring. Here is a link that might be useful: Test soil pH for $1.50 using red cabbage...See MorepH of bins
Comments (9)mr_yan, I think most of us that have been vermicomposting for a while would find using a pH meter a bit tedious. Its sort of like using a measuring cup or spoon for a recipe you have made a thousand times. The process of feeding worms for me is fairly simple. I save gravel syphoned water from my aquariums to water plants and mix scraps for worm food. I have a number of five gallon buckets with left over garden scraps of all kinds which sit covered in my shed for the winter. As needed I will take a variety of scraps into the garage to thaw out and mix with new scraps. Add some aquarium water to this bucket and in a few days things start to mold. At feeding time I take a scoop and stir the mix before adding a scoopful to the blender with about two cups of aquarium water. Turn on the blender for no more than a minure. add some more scraps and water and blend again. I leave this blended mix set for at least fifteen minutes before blending again. Those soaked scraps, thrice blended, form an emulsion which worms go through quickly. I think the biggest advantage to this method is in the variety of foods which are fed, rather than one or two items, which may as suggested here be pH modifying if over fed....See MoreRoses & plants in heavy clay, pH 8, zone 5a, 38" rain and 23" snow
Comments (58)Just thought I'd post the results I had in one garden bed that's clay-loam. Last year I had amended this bed with home-made compost. Everything did well last year as first year plantings. This year they suffered from too little light. (I just put the roses there to get them through the winter and hoping they might like the eastern exposure. Heathcliff, Sugar Moon and Falstaff like sun in my neck of the woods, it seems. I'll probably be moving the viking Queen next Spring as she's a fraction of the size of her sister in full sun, and hasn't bloomed since Spring while her sister would be non-stop if not for the midge.) Anyway, the soil was very dry even with rain. I thought the heavy leaf layer prevented water. I stuffed the empty holes with alfalfa hay, compost and leaf mold until I decided what to plant. I also put the alfalfa under the leaves in the rest of the bed and gave it additional compost. Wow, when I went to plant Lavender Lassie and two hydrangeas, all the soil was so soft and fluffy and moist, even though we had less rain that earlier. I'm now prepping my holes in advance of next Spring and filling them with the same and covering the entire bed with alfalfa hay, etc. The new plantings have taken off even in the reduced light of late summer. I repeated this in another new bed and Mme Alfred Carriere and Awakening seem to love it even in their NE exposure. (Of course, they could just be responding to being in the ground vs. in pots. : ) ) Lesson learned. : ) I'm also trying gypsum on some new beds I'm prepping since they're on an incline. I'll report back....See MoreLinda_Lou
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