You have long legs, I have short legs! Pre-washing fabric is the first rule in sewing. The second rule is measure 3 times and cut once! Also, try buying some muslin or other cheap fabric to find out how the pattern will fit your body type. Then make modifications from there. (this way you don't spend an arm and a leg on fabric just to find that after you spent all that time making it, it still doesn't fit well. I like http://www.denverfabrics.com They have great customer service to help you narrow your search. That's "if" you can't get to a fabric store in person to look through all the books. It will save you time to shop on-line though. Once you find a great pattern, make a re-usable template with some stronger pattern paper found in most fabric stores,(not sure if you can get that from the website I gave you or not) it will last longer than the flimsy pattern paper in the package. That way you can use and re-use that template. I have patterns dating back to the 80's that fit great. I just use more current fabrics, and make the odd modification from the original pattern to keep the fashion current. You will have to probably add a few inches to the original pattern. Look for the inseam info on the package and add the extra inches that your inseam measurements require. Hope that helps.

Just curious, do his pants droop at all? Perhaps the fit is not snug, which allows the pants hem to hit the ground, not just the shoes? Guys with their no-hip build, often have pants that sag a bit during the course of the day. My husband has jeans that sag, not staying up at his waist line (belted or not!), especially if he is working hard. Does allow the back hem to be dragging on the ground. Frays the material, no matter what the quality. You might ask him to wear these pants where you can observe how they ride as he wears them for a while. Sunday or out on a date. Each clothing maker has their own pattern, and perhaps this one allows a bit too much room, resulting in sagging waist.

I think this is a really interesting thing to discuss. There are many parts to this thought process. For instance, a dishwasher panel is literally surrounding an appliance designed to create a steam bath while the exterior edge of a hood is a minimum of 30" away (often farther) and the interior considerable farther. Hoods are not required at all by most codes (I say "most" because there may be one I haven't heard of) for residential cooking sources. There are many houses in my area with "lower" ceilings than the currently accepted 8'. In those houses the ceilings are approximately 7 feet tall. If you assume 36 inches for the cabinets and then a space of at least another 30 inches as your clearance above the cooktop that leaves only 16-18 inches until you reach the ceiling itself... which is perfectly acceptable by code. Downdraft hoods are considered perfectly acceptable though less efficient perhaps and they leave the space above the cooktop open and therefore expose the ceilings themselves to the same moisture. The Whirlpool website sets an average dishwasher cycle at anything from 1.5 - 3 hrs long and though it's hard to judge how much of that is a cycle that produces heat such as wash, hot rinse or hot dry it's substantially longer than I ever have anything boiling. If you assume it takes... 12? minutes for pasta or 4 minutes for a boiled egg or ... 20 minutes for potatoes (this one is a cheat... you bring them to boil and then simmer) but you can see what I'm saying. It's hard to make a comparison there. As far as the mositure penetration into the plywood there are certainly paints and enamels made to hold not only extreme heat but moisture as well. (consider the enamel in your oven or the paint on the bottom of wooden boats). Also, the substrate doesn't have to be ply wood. It would be possible to build a hood with concrete board (many types available) so there would be a minimal amount of wood, if any. But let's say, for the sake of ongoing conversation that you slap together some plywood and use regular exterior house paint. Total cost about 100.00 bucks. Then you need to redo it in a couple years because of warping. If you did that every two years for 30 years and you're total cost is something like 1500.00 bucks. Considerably less than the cost of a custom hood. But most hoods don't/aren't designed to last that length of time anyway. The big issue of course is fire. There are MANY fire proof and fire retardent paints on the market. I'm attaching a quick youtube video of testing done on one brand. If you google "fireproof paint" and choose video's you'll find a number of similar products. Here is a link that might be useful: Fireproof Paint Video

Thanks for the comment. So far the vanity itself, and even the sink, are posing no problem (keep your fingers crossed). More of a compatability issue between the Ikea sink and non-Ikea faucet. Lucky for me, I guess, I don't care that much about the faucet, so I'm just going to return the Kohler and buy an Ikea one. I do think Ikea should let consumers know that this is an issue.