Tap on the door with your knuckle, other than at the edges.
Solid core doors also usually have three hinges.

You might also consider a door at the bottom of the staircase or even a heavy fabric which can be pulled aside behind the door jamb.

Thanks for the reply snoonyb. I have a stupid question...when I tap on the door, what does a hollow versus solid core door sound like?

Right now we have openings (sans doors) going from the foyer into the living and dining rooms. As a part of the renovation, I'm considering putting pocket doors into these openings (to limit the sound migration up the stairs). Our interior designer warns me that this will be costly, since we'll have to relocate ducts and electrical boxes. That's why he suggested just saving the money and putting in solid core doors.

I'm reluctant to give up my pocket door dream...

Ava

Tap on a board. Then tap on the door. If the sounds are similar, the door is a solid model. If the door sounds much different, it may be a ho;llowcore model.

Doors should have a 1" or so gap at the bottom to allow air flow room. Sound will travel under the door and IMHO, make most doors equal for dampening sound.

If you want the pocket doors----which will help mitigate noise transfer to a second story when closed----and are prepared to pay the extra cost----do so. Your house, your money, your decision.

You may already have a solid wood panel door. Just tap on different areas and if it generally sounds the same then thats what you have. They are a good sound transmitter,

There are available 1 3/4" solid core six panel doors which will act as a better insulator, however, they are of the fiberboard variety.

If you ellect to use this method, fit them tightly as pocket doors will vibrate, because they are suspended, not hinged.

Aesthetically my preference for floor clearance is no more than 3/8", and thats pushing it.

Hi,
Whatever happened to thresholds? Wonder when they fell out of favor. Probably when "elite, pre-hung, split-jambs" made their entrance. My poor old hovel, with pine floors, has 5/8" saddles or thresholds at each door, which is trimmed 3/4 above the flooring, leaving a very tight 1/8" gap to the saddle. Except for those doors that rub (at the top or bottom corner, depending on how the door is oriented to the floor's sag...)They really seal off the spaces accoustically. I am re-intallings doors from my kitchen, who knows when they were discarded, for the same reasons you have- noise control, plus pet management and odor-abatement.
casey

I replaced my builders papermache (just kidding) doors, with doors from Masonite. I bought them from an old time home improvement center, not a big box store. They pointed out that the ones carried by HD look indenticle, but are much lighter. The ones they carry, also from the same company, are much more solid. I'm very pleased with them.

I bought mine from Hamilton supply in Trenton NJ. They didn't cost that much more and, I like to give my bussines to independent stores, unless the difference is dramatic.

Thanks, everyone, for your comments and suggestions. You guys actually brought up a point that's festered in my head for a while -- what's up with our door clearances? There must be a 1-2" gap under our bedroom doors. I suspect they were undercut to make room for carpeting at one time, but then the carpeting was (thankfully) taken out.

I'd love to get a door that significantly reduces the gap, as some of you suggested, but I also remember hearing something to the effect of what handymac was saying -- you need the larger clearance to ensure proper air circulation/house pressure balancing. If there's one thing we absolutely don't want to make worse, it's the HVAC balancing in our house. It's already dreadful. This whole subject opens up a can of worms for me. In fact, I wonder if I should spend a little time over at the HVAC forum...

Cheers,
Ava

Would French doors that fold against the wall when open work in the foyer? They would help with the sound without crowding things visually like solid doors. It'd be weird to put solid doors in there, but glass might work. Not as good for sound as pocket, but alot better than nothing. And depending on what your doors look like, well, new doors don't have the charm of doors from a 1940 colonial. Unless they're trashed or not original, it might be a shame to replace them.

(My pocket door dream was also crushed by reality.)

if you have forced air heat/air conditioning, then air is blown out of the heat ducts into each room, and must find its way back to the return air filter/duct, usualy located in the hallway. If you seal off the door to a bedroom, you will greatly reduce the flow of heated or cooled air into that room. There will still be some, because air will be forced out any little crack around windows, light fixtures, outlets, etc. but basicly you have just shut off that duct.

A secondary air return can be installed in your son's bedroom. Depending on your house, it could cost anywhere from a $100 up to many thousands. Then you could install an 1 3/4" solid door with weather stripping of some type on the bottom.

"you need the larger clearance to ensure proper air circulation/house pressure balancing."

Not necessarily. Think about how and when you use your heating and cooling appliance.
The sound issue also needs to be understood.
Sound is the compression of air. closed doors act as a diaphragm, similar to a drum, loose fitting expands this and tight fitting reduces, an open door has no value.

Tight fitting means correct gap between door and jamb, stop fit, strike adjustment and prudent arch. conforming, aesthetically appealing bottom gap.

Your HVAC system can be balanced through the use and placement of dampers and volume control, not that big a deal.