Effluent expands as it rises, so the 27-inch hood will have a better chance of capturing it. Larger hoods also allow some increase in their mounting height for taller cooks. (But keep in mind that to look over the range one has to bend, thereby reducing one's distance from the floor.) Position and type of hood lighting is also relevant, as a hot lamp just above one's head can be annoying. Larger hoods require more air flow in proportion to their aperture area (or at least in proportion to the area where the baffles are, depending on interior design details. And the make-up air has to support this flow. A roof fan or attic in-line fan will reduce local noise, and if space and resources permit, an in-line sound reducer/muffler/silencer will also help. One can converse in my kitchen next to my Wolf Pro Island hood with its 1500 cfm - rated roof fan at full power. I do have a Fantech silencer and have much of the ducting wrapped with vibration dampening sheets. Ultimately it is a trade in cost and appearance versus effectiveness and noise that each person has to make accounting for any limiting architectural factors. kas

Your hood aperture should overlap pan bases by enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent that they can generate with hot cooking. So start with where the pans will be with the range in place, and expand the area by at least (!) three inches in all directions to see the area the aperture has to encompass. The hood should not have a gap at the back unless you use a hood a deep as a Pro Island hood (see Wolf hood parameters) and can clean back there. If you insist on a hood that can't make it to the wall when paragraph 1 is satisfied, then the gap will have to be blocked, and for best results this block should be tilted to reflect the effluent up into the aperture. For best results your blower at full power should cause an areal flow rate of 90 cfm per square foot of hood aperture. Assume that the rated flow rate will not be achieved and bump this number higher to 130 cfm/sq.ft., say, and multiply by the area to get the desired flow rate rating of the blower alone. I can't read Whirlpool's mind on cabinet depth. Your code enforcement officer may have an opinion. Different localities can have different rules. kas

Hi Everyone, I wanted to let you know that as of today, I HAVE A WORKING RANGE! It took 4 delivery/installation attempts (and they still need to come out again to attach the trim-that's a whole different story) but my Bertazzoni PROF304CEMXE fits! Since the handle is low, the drawer actually pulls open without needing any modifications. It's close. SUPER CLOSE. How close? There is exactly 1/8" clearance. Yep, ONE-EIGHTH OF AN INCH! And half-an inch clearance above the oven door handle. That was a HUGE relief. If the handle on this model wasn't so low (and the Bertazonni not as deep as other units), I would've had to make the drawer narrower. As far as the cabinet door, we are going to hinge it on the left, and I'll pull out the magic corner apparatus by hand instead of having it attached to the actual cabinet door. So, I won't need to swap out a narrower door and add a filler strip. I'll share more pictures when it's done-done, but this is a HUGE relief! Thank you to everyone who shared your suggestions. If I hadn't put out an SOS here on Houzz, I don't know what I would've done. If you are still looking for a shallower electric range compatible with 40 amps, this Bertazzoni might work for you. It is 27 3/8" deep including the handle, and my standard height drawer cleared the handle due to its low position on the oven door.

In looking at your pics again and conparing these pics (vs the manual) it appears you dont have the optional filler installed https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-30-in-6-3-cu-ft-Slide-In-Electric-Range-with-Self-Cleaning-Oven-in-Stainless-Steel-NE63T8111SS/313697660 lots of customer posted pics of installs on hd site showing it pushed further back - samsung does (or did) offer $100 countertop modification reimbursement