27" deep base cabs and range hoods

9 years ago

I'm putting in 27" base cabs and have ordered a Whirlpool slide-in range. I understand standard 24" base cabinets leave about a 2" gap in back which needs to be covered with a strip of countertop. I assume by adding 3" of depth that grows to ~5". I'm ok with that but am struggling with how best to address the range hood depth. From my research at GW I see that one way is to get a wall mounted chimney hood and use something to bump it out 3 inches from the wall. Would a less expensive 20" depth models be adequate or do I need to buy a pricier 24" hood? Might it also be a viable option to use a small island hood instead since I'll have quite a bit of space between the back of the range and the wall?

One other question, Whirlpool's online manual states the wall cabinets on each side above the range must be a maximum of 13" deep. Is that really true? Their diagram is based on base cabinets of 24", counter top 25". If I keep the same proportions (16" wall and 27" base) I can't imagine why that would create any fire hazard if there's none with standard dimension cabinets.

Comments (8)

kaseki
9 years ago
Your hood aperture should overlap pan bases by enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent that they can generate with hot cooking. So start with where the pans will be with the range in place, and expand the area by at least (!) three inches in all directions to see the area the aperture has to encompass.

The hood should not have a gap at the back unless you use a hood a deep as a Pro Island hood (see Wolf hood parameters) and can clean back there. If you insist on a hood that can't make it to the wall when paragraph 1 is satisfied, then the gap will have to be blocked, and for best results this block should be tilted to reflect the effluent up into the aperture.

For best results your blower at full power should cause an areal flow rate of 90 cfm per square foot of hood aperture. Assume that the rated flow rate will not be achieved and bump this number higher to 130 cfm/sq.ft., say, and multiply by the area to get the desired flow rate rating of the blower alone.

I can't read Whirlpool's mind on cabinet depth. Your code enforcement officer may have an opinion. Different localities can have different rules.

kas
hvtech42
9 years ago
Which is the model number of the range you're ordering? The new Whirlpool slide ins are full depth (designed for no countertop strip behind them).
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lwo, akchicago -- Huge smile on this end:) How nice to be remembered! kassjs - Agree with others, pull forward range, same countertop for the back. You state you have a 40" wide hood but you show a 36" wide range. Are the adjacent cabinets lowers only? That said...the stainless steel surround we have (and large hood and sump - hood capture area) are incredibly useful. Trays come out of the oven and there's always room for them, despite what's already cooking. No smell or smoke in the house, ever. Good point huango - trash on the other side of the kitchen is too far away. If that's your prep area, I'd suggest an inset composter and trash in the 36" cabinet. Note that you can combine trash and composter in the same 12" space. Glad you are considering/planning the 30" counter tops. I suggest you go for 18" uppers vs. 15". This way you have the normal 12" difference between the upper cabinet edge and the countertop. The extra space is wonderful. Good luck!
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klmaring
Original Author
9 years ago
It's a Whirlpool White Ice Slide-In Gas Range WEG760HODH. First slide-in range for me, first time I've ever remodeled a kitchen. I guess I'll know more when I actually get the range (~ 2 weeks) but the guy who is making my cabinets is anxious to get going.

kas, I think I understand. If I attach the hood to the wall behind the range there should be no gap there. I'm just not sure since my base cabinets will be 27" deep (countertop 28 1/2") if the front burners will be covered. Since the range is 30" wide I think you're saying I should get a 36" wide hood? No pro anything, looking to spend $500 to $1,000 on the hood. I broke the budget early on in the process.

Thanks both for your help.
kaseki
9 years ago
There are goals (such as good capture and containment, one element of which is related to the 3-inches overhang) and needs (such as not exceeding the budget). One has to do the best he can with what he has available in space, paths for ducts, and money. On a rising scale of performance, residential kitchen ventilation follows the sequence: simulated ventilation, modest but real ventilation, "pro" ventilation. Only the owner who has to pay for it can judge where in the trade between cost and better odor/grease capture he wants to set a stake. For many, moving from simulated to real ventilation will be such an improvement that residual odor from missed capture and containment will not be a big deal.

kas
klmaring
Original Author
9 years ago
Thanks, I'm onboard with good enough. I have no ventilation now so if I get to the point I can only smell dinner for a couple of hours after instead of two days that would be a big improvement!
klmaring
Original Author
9 years ago
Interesting, don't know why I'm no longer KylCyn. I'm traveling and am using my iPad. Maybe houzz knows me and GB doesn't on this digital pet?
klmaring
Original Author
9 years ago
Oops, GW, not GB.
kaseki
9 years ago
last modified: 9 years ago
I guess I forgot to include "no ventilation" ahead of "simulated ventilation."

kas