HELP! I need an electric range that is LESS than 27" deep TOTAL
Lorianne Lee
2 years ago
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JAN MOYER
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoUser
2 years agoRelated Discussions
Wolf Range Hood: 24" or 27" deep
Comments (8)Effluent expands as it rises, so the 27-inch hood will have a better chance of capturing it. Larger hoods also allow some increase in their mounting height for taller cooks. (But keep in mind that to look over the range one has to bend, thereby reducing one's distance from the floor.) Position and type of hood lighting is also relevant, as a hot lamp just above one's head can be annoying. Larger hoods require more air flow in proportion to their aperture area (or at least in proportion to the area where the baffles are, depending on interior design details. And the make-up air has to support this flow. A roof fan or attic in-line fan will reduce local noise, and if space and resources permit, an in-line sound reducer/muffler/silencer will also help. One can converse in my kitchen next to my Wolf Pro Island hood with its 1500 cfm - rated roof fan at full power. I do have a Fantech silencer and have much of the ducting wrapped with vibration dampening sheets. Ultimately it is a trade in cost and appearance versus effectiveness and noise that each person has to make accounting for any limiting architectural factors. kas...See Morestove that fits 30'W X 24'deep space
Comments (53)What a nightmare this search is! Glad I'm not the only one...adding my two cents in case it helps others as this is clearly a problem that more than a few people are having... We needed a gas stove (our building doesn't have enough amps for electric, apparently) and we have a very narrow kitchen so I didn't want anything to stick out too far. Initially we wanted an oven built-into the cabinet for a stream-lined look. There are only two gas 30" wall ovens on the market that I could find: a Summit (poor reviews) and the good-looking VEBIG30NSS Verona 30" Gas Built In Single Wall Oven - Stainless Steel. Which a) becomes pretty expensive when you add in the cooktop, the cabinet for the oven, the extra countertop, etc., plus the oven doesn't have any bells or whistles to justify the price and b) you're kind of F'ed if it breaks down or you need to replace it down the line b/c clearly there aren't other options on the market. I would've swallowed the cost, but didn't want to screw myself in the future w/ custom cabinetry built around an appliance I can't replace. So, the best options I came up with: Allow the stove to stick out and treat it as a "feature": I liked the Kucht 30" gas in green (29"D) Go with the cheaply priced but boring looking : Frigidaire 30 Inch Wide 5.1 Cu. Ft. Gas Range with Quick Boil Burner and Steam Clean Model:FCFG3062AS (26"D) Spend more on a Smeg (25"D) or Verona (24"D) gas slide-in. Spend less on a Koolmore (brand unknown to me, but generally fine reviews) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Koolmore-30-in-5-Burner-Freestanding-Gas-Range-in-Stainless-Steel-GRS-30-5B/320772367 which is 25"D and has nice clean lines (not dissimilar from the Verona for half the price). This apartment will become a rental within the next 5 years, so we're going with the last option. GOOD LUCK, this is an infuriating problem. Wish manufacturers would add some more range options that aren't huge monsters. Hope this saves someone some time....See Moreless-than-thorough rough electrical inspection
Comments (12)Though there is some validation to bus_drivers post, I have seen the complete opposite. I have seen what have appeared to I be a perfectly wired house except when you got to the breaker box and meter can, etc. Things like 14-2 on 20 amp breakers, improper splices in the box, and the line and load reversed on the meter can. All simple fixes, but they may or may not be apparent to a DYI'er or a home owner having a house built. The point isÂthat most muni-type inspections are merely another form of taxation and are rarely about quality control. Some inspectors do the bare minimum to enforce codes that are considered the bare safety minimum. Most of the time you canÂt blame them, they are typically overworked, underpaid employees. How can someone with 10-20 inspections per day, scattered all over the city/county perform a thorough inspection? One other point that people are shocked to hear about is that most muni-type inspectors and building permit depts. are "immune" from any responsibility for their errors & omissions. Codnuggets- This post and your plumbing post are a great examples of why I am always promoting the use of 3rd party independent licensed inspectors and/or engineers to inspect a house, whether you are looking for affirmation of your work, or your hired contractorÂs work. These inspectors typically only schedule only 1-2 home inspections per day, and although usually limited, they are responsible for some liability through licensing and errors and omissions insurance. And before someone asks, no I am not an inspector but I have seen how bad things can get in situations just like this. Just look at the numerous examples of the bad inspections/permitting or lack of inspections/permitting that is occurring on the "Building a Home" posts....See More27" deep base cabs and range hoods
Comments (8)Your hood aperture should overlap pan bases by enough to capture the rising and expanding effluent that they can generate with hot cooking. So start with where the pans will be with the range in place, and expand the area by at least (!) three inches in all directions to see the area the aperture has to encompass. The hood should not have a gap at the back unless you use a hood a deep as a Pro Island hood (see Wolf hood parameters) and can clean back there. If you insist on a hood that can't make it to the wall when paragraph 1 is satisfied, then the gap will have to be blocked, and for best results this block should be tilted to reflect the effluent up into the aperture. For best results your blower at full power should cause an areal flow rate of 90 cfm per square foot of hood aperture. Assume that the rated flow rate will not be achieved and bump this number higher to 130 cfm/sq.ft., say, and multiply by the area to get the desired flow rate rating of the blower alone. I can't read Whirlpool's mind on cabinet depth. Your code enforcement officer may have an opinion. Different localities can have different rules. kas...See MoreLorianne Lee
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