Conflicted Female: Hardwood or Plywood Under Cabinets?
kitchenredo2
15 years ago
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Comments (19)
ccoombs1
15 years agorosie
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Cabinets installed before site finished hardwood floors - opinion
Comments (19)It's not difficult to saw out flooring at the toekick if it needs to be removed. And any water event that damages flooring will certainly damage the subfloor, or the plywood that the cabinets should be sitting on. Standard counter heights and cabinet alignment heights in kitchen design are all designed to begin at 0 as the finished floor height. Depending on the design, this can be an issue with tall cabinetry not being tall enough for the ceiling and needing to add a horizontal filler for the molding planned for it and the other cabinets. It all starts at the finished floor level. Appliances like DW's need the full 34.5 height or you may be restricted to only models that can adjust to much shorter heights. Slide in ranges are especially problematical because they aren't very adjustable and depend on the cabinets being the standard 34.5 above the finished floor. That's why plywood has to go under the cabinets and you have to know the thickness of the flooring being used during the design phase. Any other issues with doing the cabinets first mostly amount to the amount of damage that the flooring guys can inflict on the cabinets. Which can be considerable if a sander gets away from them. It's much easier to repair a hole in the drywall than it is one in the side of a cabinet. That has to actually be replaced....See More?tile under dishwasher/refrigerator & rest hardwood in k
Comments (2)I am using Quartersawn white oak because it is less prone to shrinking and cupping. If your DW or refrig leaks, the leak will not be confined to the area under the appliance anyway, so just run the kitchen flooring right under those appliances. To save on money, I am running my oak under the front 2" of my cabinets and using 3/4" plywood for the rest of the area under the cabs....See MoreHardwood floors under cabinets and 8' ceilings
Comments (15)This is all true if you are using solid hardwood. * As an FYI to anyone who may be reading this later and is not using solid hardwood . . . . . if you are using engineered hardwood that you are floating (and may be true for other floating installations), you do NOT install the flooring under the cabinets. A floating floor must float freely; You do not want to anchor, bind, or restrict its natural movement under cabinets (or baseboards that are so tight to allow no movement). By the way, engineered hardwood is not to be confused with laminate hardwood look-a-likes like Pergo. Engineered hardwood can be compared to plywood (which is almost universally loved around the TKO's of GW kitchens : ). What you see and walk on is real hardwood. Think of the hardwood as being the top layer on a piece of plywood and that is basically what it is. This layer of hardwood can come in many different thicknesses and most engineered hardwoods can be sanded and refinished from 1-5 times over their life which gives them a lifespan of 40-80 years, or at the very least screened and recoated which gives them a lifespan of 20-30 years (although we have had our engineered floors in our primary residence for over 8 years with nothing more than occasional cleaning and they still look brand new). Solid hardwood can usually be sanded and refinished 5-7 times which gives them a lifespan of 100 years. We chose the same engineered hardwood in both our primary residence and our vacation rental home. In our primary, it was mostly to save money, but also because we were covering 3 different surfaces (prior owners had hardwood in the foyer, vinyl in the kitchen, and carpet in the dining-which we removed to expose the subfloor). And because we loved the look of this beautiful exotic Brazilian Timborana hardwood. In our beach house the engineered floor was chosen for Function !!! Engineered hardwood offers MUCH better dimensional stability in a high humidity environment. Also, it has a far more durable finish (prefinished) with 7-10 coats of urethane and aluminum oxide finish and UV curing - which is needed in this environment of renters and lots of scratchy sand being tracked into the home. The other reason for engineered installed floating at our beach house is that floating floor boards are connected to one another becoming a single unit so that when expansion and contraction happens, it happens as a whole. This minimizes gaps and cupping that you would see in a traditional installation, where each board is expanding and contracting independently of the other boards. That is why it is important to leave an expansion gap around the walls of the room and around any other immovable objects, and not bind the movement by installing the cabinets on top of the floor. Our expansion gap is hidden under the baseboard molding. Another reason for engineered hardwood ... Purchasing engineered wood flooring helps conserve expensive prized wood. For every 1 sq foot of 3/4 inch thick solid wood flooring manufactured you can manufacturer approx 4 times that amount into engineered wood flooring. Engineered wood flooring is the best flooring to provide people with to conserve our forests. (I copied that text online) We installed our hardwood with Floor Muffler, a sound deadening underlayment....See MoreEngineered Hardwood versus Hardwood
Comments (23)ok, this is an area where I actually know something! I sold and spec'ed hardwood for a custom shop before my mommy-life. The information you are getting here is correct. Engineered floors will give you 1-2 refinishings ON A PERFECT SUBFLOOR. One of the issues that sometimes arises if there are inconsistanies in the height of your subfloor. Because there is thinner wood wearlayer (before you get to the engineered wood) there is the chance that you can damage the floor irreparably when you sand it. Now I only saw this saw this happen twice, once on a loft job and once in an older home. The loft was more subtle as it was over concrete, the old house more obvious as they were DIYers and picked engineered flooring to try to negate their irregular subfloor (they neglected to tell us that that was why they chose engineered, we would have talked them out of it had we seen the floor first) Neither of their claims to the manufacturer were fully settled because both times they did not follow the guidelines for floor prep. The loft job was also a materials only job for us with their GC laying the floors but he insisted he knew what he was doing. A good engineered floor will not be cheaper than most of your nail down options because the production costs are higher. Now having said that, GOOD engineered floors certainly have their place in places where you can't put traditional hardwood due to height restrictions or concrete subfloors. My boss had a great engineered floor in his basement and it survived a flood remarkably well (it was ash, Kahrs brand out of Scandinavia and one of the beefier engineered floors and one of the pioneers) My Grandmother also had a Kahrs floor in her ground suite condo and she LOVED it and I was impressed by the milling. I'm considering it for our basement because it's warmer and less echo-y than laminate There has been a lot of 2nd rate engineered flooring coming out of China and being labeled for all sorts of different companies. You should be able to tell an engineered sample because the layers are sandwiched together and the tongue will be a different wood than the top (showing) layer. Distressed finishes are usually more expensive because of the extra step in manufacturing to make it distressed. That is different than just getting a lower grade of hardwood like a rustic or tavern grade (in solid hardwood). Those grades have more character but they often don't carry a warranty and generally have a higher waste percentage. Another thing to think about---if you ever have to replace part of the floor, you will always be able to replicate 3/4" thick hardwood but engineered floors are more like tile, they change and get discontinued over the years. You could go pre-finished, save the hassle of site finishing but with the thicker wear-layer a 3/4" nail down floor offers. Only you will know if you can handle beveling or not. The changes in milling the last 10 years are huge. The bevel in your better milled wood is tiny. I like Canadian mills, Model or Mirage for pre-finished. Remember that if you ever re-finish, the bevel will disappear and you will, essentially have a site finished floor. One benefit that many people don't know about? With a prefinished tongue and grooved floor you can have a good installer cut out a single board (or more) from your floor if it gets damaged which is why we did a fair bit of pre-finished in new homes since inevitably we would get call-backs at move in to repair trade damage (@#$%^ plumbers and their big wrenches!). Prefinished hardwood deals the best with shinkage and expansion issues because the finish is on individual boards. Site finished floors are more labor intensive but the materials are cheaper (apples to apples). They are what many people consider the gold standard however there are more steps and you don't always know how it's going to look until it's done. There is more chance of finish contamination and trade damage during the rest of the building process. We refinished 100 year old floors. I loved the idea that there wasn't 4 generations of carpet and crap in the landfill. Definitely a forever floor and it can usually be re-sanded for all but the very worst water damage (think entire house under water for a few days) If you are going with a wide plank, keep in mind your species and humidity level (and your ability to keep humidity stable). The wider the plank (with 3/4" thick flooring), the more obvious shrinking and expanding will be. If you take a 2" wide board and it shrinks 2%, it isn't very noticeable. If you take a 6" wide board and it shrinks 2% the gaping will be more noticeable and in the case of a site finished floor *could* pull your finish apart. You'll need to find a flooring contractor in your area with lots of experience. Most of the best hardwood shops ONLY do hardwood. Beware of carpet shops and many of the big box stores in many instances. Make sure they are accredited with the NWFA (national wood flooring association) http://www.nwfa.org/member/ good luck!...See Moremelanie1422
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