I know this is late but just returned to this forum. I had been having problems with my dishwasher opening to dispense the liquid Cascade. So I bought some of the Cascade 2 in 1 Action Pacs, thinking I was to just drop them in the washer. Well, turns out they also had to go in the dispenser but when I put them in, the dispenser worked perfectly so I have been using them every since. DH and I both noticed that our plastic glasses that we love started looking clear again, not cloudy, just after I started using the Pacs. So I put some glassware in that I thought had etching and Viola! They came out clear and clean after one cycle! Don't know why, I always rinsed my dishes using Dawn, which these Pacs have in them as well as the Cascade in the dishwasher and a rinse agent, too. But if it works... You might want to try them just for kicks if you are still having a problem.

It's all a chemical process. Enzymes are chemicals that dissolve food (organic) residue, along with water conditioners to sequester mineral content (hard water). It's not the enzymes so much that attack the glassware, it's the higher concentration of ALL the various chemicals in the detergent composition that does the damage when there's not enough "food soil" in the aggregate wash solution. Whether you like it or not, accept it or not ... the facts remain that modern dishwashers are engineered to work properly with specific additive products, including rinse aid. Your usage technique thus far apparently isn't working so well, has caused considerable residue in your machine. Lemishine (citric acid) is an alternative to the dishwasher cleaner you've been directed to use. Plain white vinegar can be helpful on mild to moderate calcification. I suppose in an extreme case one could try Limeaway or CLR. More than one treatment may be needed.

I've been washing my dishes by hand. Sure is nice to take clean dishes and glasses out of the cupboard. I contacted Kitchen Aid asking why the dishes have a film on them and the glasses are cloudy. Here's the reply I got: "We apologize for the situation you are having with your Kitchen Aid dishwasher not cleaning resulting in cloudy glassware and fine grit on your plates. Listed below is information relating to poor dishwashing results. Please review the following checklist to see if any apply to your situation: 1) Water Temperature - Make sure your water temperature is between 120 and 140 degrees. Your water heater should be set no lower than 120 F to obtain the best results from your dishwasher and detergent. Most detergents today will not properly dissolve if the water temperature is too low. The optimum temperature is 140 F. Run the hot water at the kitchen sink before starting the dishwasher to purge cooled water from the supply line or use the temperature boost option (on some models) to increase the water temperature. 2) Water Condition - Verify the water hardness, since the degree of hardness in the water can cause poor cleaning results. If hard water exists, using granular detergent may offer better results; but if you have soft water, liquid detergent is recommended. A general rule-of-thumb is to use one teaspoon of detergent for each grain of hardness. However, in areas where the water hardness is 15 or above, it is almost impossible to obtain good cleaning results. If you have a water softener, run the dishwasher only when the softener is full. If you run the dishwasher after most of the soft water supply has been depleted, the dishes will not get clean, and they may look even dirtier than when they were put in. You also would not want to set the softener on zero grains of hardness, since the detergent needs the minerals in the water to properly activate and break down. 3) Obstruction of Water Flow - If the holes of the spray arms are blocked with any type of debris (broken glass, seeds, plastic, etc.) the water will not be able to spray properly. Remove any visible debris from the spray arms. If a spray arm is stuck in one position due to an obstruction, it will disrupt proper water flow inside the dishwasher during use. Rearrange how the dishes are loaded so that large items, such as baking pans, are not blocking water flow to upper rack or other dishes. Make sure the spray arms can spin freely and the wash tower is not obstructed. Avoid nesting items. Wash Cycle - Heavily soiled dishes may need additional wash time. Make sure you choose the appropriate wash cycle for the dishes being washed. Different wash cycles have longer or shorter wash times. Water Pressure - Make sure you have good water pressure. Sometimes well water may not have strong enough pressure to get the water into the dishwasher. Water pressure should be 20 - 120 pounds per square inch (PSI) for optimal results. Detergent/Rinse Agent - Do not put detergent into the dispenser until you are ready to wash dishes. Powder detergent needs to be kept fresh and dry. It can become stale as it ages or when stored in damp areas. Do not store it under the sink, because this can be a moist area. Before using powder detergent shake the container. If the detergent has clumped together, it may be too old and will not wash well, since old detergent loses power and often will not dissolve. If your dishes are often heavily soiled, you may need to use detergent with a higher phosphate level, if it is available in your area. 7) Also using a rinse aid allows water to flow off dishes quicker than usual, lessens water spotting, and makes drying faster. However, if you are using a detergent that already has a rinse aid in it, we do not recommend using an additional rinse aid. Too much rinse aid could create a film and attract food particles. 8) Phosphates were taken out of detergents for important environmental concerns in July 2010. Consumers are finding a white film on dishes after this change took effect. If you have hard water, we suggest using Finish Glass Magic in the Pre Wash compartment, and regular Cascade detergent in the detergent compartment. The Finish tablets are effective also. In addition, it is important to use powder detergent with a powder pre wash additive, or liquid with liquid. If you have hard water, powdered detergent, or tablets will provide better results. Once you have reviewed the above information and the situation still exists, you may want to consider contacting a Local, Certified Technician for resolution."

The prices you mention for RO and water softener are pretty high. The RO is particularly high - you should be able to get a similar system for under $500 installed. I have mine serviced every six months for around $100, so the service you're quoted isn't too bad. You could DIY change the filters if you don't mind getting your hands dirty. The softener is in the range of a high-end, high-flow system. I think mine cost around $1500 seven years ago, and at the time had a top of the line valve. That system supports 4.5 bathrooms, so if your requirements are less you could spend a lot less on a smaller system. In general with softeners most companies assemble their own from off the shelf parts, so you want to look at the brand name of the valve, not the retailer. Anyway, I'd recommend getting a few more quotes. Especially from local places that don't sell equipment with their own brand name on it, which will lead to a sizable markup.