In addition to the type of fabric you're choosing, factor in if/what type of lining there will be. (Because the fabric that you see looking at it from the room may not be what you want your windows looking like from the street -- say, if it's a dark-colored fabric, you might be persnickety like I am and want a white/natural backside, and a fade-resistant one at that.) And, ditto to Patty Cakes' comment on the width and the stress of that on the mechanics. I just bought a 76" wide cell blind for my kitchen window and even though the handyman seems to have installed it fine, I now wish I'd chosen the option for 2 separate headrails instead of one -- that is, 2 shades side-by-side -- to not have all that shade relying on one headrail and a handful of screws. But maybe you have one large plate-glass window instead of 2 separate side-by-side windows.

That is not correct unless I am missing something. First of all, they are available only on the casements with an operator (not push out). The shade and screen (behind it) are in one unit that sits in the same slot that houses a screen only on the interior. I would do a couple of things: use the dealer locator on the website and find a dealer in your area that has them on display. Have in hand the serial number from the glass (usually upper right corner from interior). It should be a ten digit number beginning with a letter and then 16..., 17...,18.. (the year of manufacture). Have a magnifying glass and a step stool and the easiest thing to do is to read to someone else to transcribe and then have them read it back. This will give Marvin "all" the information on your window(s) and a shade can be ordered. You will need a new screen if you now have one as it is a different size. The interior wood of the shade will match your window and there are fifteen different fabric choices (including some blackout) to choose from. These are all Hunter-Douglas quality fabrics. The shades are not inexpensive but competitive with after market choices without some of their drawbacks like you are experiencing. Good luck and let us know if this works.

The amount of UV rays penetrating the window is dependent on the insulated glass unit used. Some IGUs incorporate glass such as Cardinal LoĒ³-366 that block nearly all UV rays. If you want to block UV without shades, you can install window film. I have a window with a drywall return (drywall surrounds the window in the way metal surrounds yours). I installed Bali cellular blinds. Bali supports up to three blinds installed on one headrail. This means that you could have one blind each over the two operable lites and a third blind over the fixed lite but have only one headrail that would extend the total width of the window. If the Bali blinds had a basic cords, the "stacks" (the height of the shades when they are fully open) would be minimized and as much of the glass as possible wwould be visible. I would suspect that the stacks would be shorter than the height of your window frame (i.e., no glass would be covered). You can ask the seller for the height of the stacks. Yes, you would have to attach the shade to the return with screws.

I paid about $1100 to do (as I recall) about 9 windows, so your quote seems high. I obsessed over which tint to use--I didn't want to block the light! In the end, I went with the one the sales guy said is what almost everyone chooses, and blocks 97% of the UV rays (or close to that). He was absolutely right, I don't even notice that it's there. And now I want it on ALL the windows in our house. Then, you can assess whether you need a motor or whether you just want to take those blinds down. We have high windows (now with film on them) and I don't notice any glare or have any need or want to put anything else on those windows. It's fine.