how far up and out should the hood be?
13 years ago
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- 13 years ago
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anyone hve the GE Cafe range? how far should it stick out?
Comments (5)Remodel-mama - I understand your GE Cafe's installation instructions show a 1/4" distance, but what is really important is how exposed is the oven when opened to the combustible cabinets on either side. With that in mind, the range SHOULD stick out, not just for aesthetics but for safety. Usually the oven minus the door is flush with the cabinets, and the door portion sticks out. My range sticks out about 1-1/2" (not including the handle) which is the thickness of the oven door. That 1-1/2" door thickness is fairly typical of ranges, though the high-end ranges like the Wolf are even thicker. So despite the 1/4" shown on your GE's instructions, what is important is that there should not be exposed cabinet sides visible on either side of the opened oven, as they are combustible. HTH. Here is a pic from the GE Appliances website:...See MoreConfused about how far out my counters should go over the cabinet
Comments (12)Hi Angie -- that's right! I'd forgotten about that underside runnel ... and I haven't seen it (though I might not have noticed) in a residential setting. Funny... It's a great idea though. I'd do it if I were you. I'm not sure there is a "Standard" overhang -- I think it depends where you live and whom you talk with. I think it must have been here that I read 1.5" was "Standard" and when it came time for me to discuss this with fabricators and the like, they all acted like I'd crawled in from Mars. And they charged me extra for the "extra" overhang. I do believe, though, it is nevertheless "standard" for some, despite the protestations I happened to receive. But I wouldn't assume anything! This was totally confusing to me so I'll try to spell it out. Please ignore if it's patently obvious to you: I'll call it a mini-treatise on overhang. (i) There is no standard overhang (ii) over hang is measured from the cabinet box ... or at least it can be. And hence the possibility for confusion. (iii) If you choose drawer fronts that do not "inset" right inside the cabinet box, then they will set on top of the front of that box, and add extra thickness. This comes out of the "overhang" measurement. Thus, if you have, say, frameless cabinets with 5/8" drawer fronts, and your fabricator says "Sure, sure, 1.5", standard overhang..." what that translates to, functionally, is (1.5" - 5/8" = 7/8") overhang. That's less than an inch. Thus it is possible for everyone to do as you specified, sort of, and still wind up with less overhang than you'd anticipated. I had them cut "2" overhangs", from which the 5/8" was subtracted resulting in a little less than 1.5" overhangs. It's enough. But it was a fight! And one that I'm glad I put up. And also, remember that your drawer fronts usually have a little cushion they will sit on on top of the cabinet box, a pad or something -- that takes away a teensy bit more depth too. However, it was never clear to me during the skirmish why there was all this miscommunication. But I understand now; it depends where you're measuring from. As a homeowner/user, I don't care about the box at all; I don't pay attention to it. It's the drawer's front panel that matters to me, where it ends. But the contractors sometimes don't even *see* those drawer fronts so they completely ignore the issue. A real miscommunication. My experience at least. One more thing. I've whined about this a bunch but I just spent several moments ruing my ogee edges all over again. A day never goes by when I don't at least once, usually several times. I hate em. Lots of folks on here love em; I don't. This time it was bits of eggshell -- can't sweep it into the compost bucket. They get stuck, hide, on the little swoopy edge. Someone mentioned that also not-standard may be the angle of the ogee. Another had probably tighter curves and loved theirs very much; it could be that mine are very "lazy" and better catch stuff. It is the one thing I regret the most about my kitchen (which means I'm overall as happy as a clam; I admit this is not exactly calamitous). But I do want to mention, that I felt this, dunno, "glamour-pressure" to sex up the counter edges and yet, function is the most important thing to me and for some reason I just glazed over that consideration. If you're a stickler for function, you might want to consider skipping the whole countertop edge thing. Wish I had! Oh -- except I would, given the ability to choose again, ask for mitred edges, as opposed to standard. Both wind up straight but the mitred blends the swirls of the stone's pattern and the sandwich has a random-looking join - with very happening stone it can make quite the lightening streaks. Not sure whether this was depicted in the posted options....See MoreHow far should upper and lower cabinets project for 29' hood?
Comments (0)I am looking into a Francois and Co range hood and we are getting a 60" Wolf range, both which stick out 29". How far out should the upper and lower cabinets project so the hood does not look silly sticking out much farther than the upper cabinets? Thanks so much!...See MoreHow far up the wall should we tile?
Comments (2)Examples to consider. Maybe no 4" backsplash. Tile only above the vanity all the way to the countertop then take the tile line all the way around. Or Wainscoting all the way around from vanity, under window around tub. I like it when they do a narrow shelf above wainscoting. I know it's probably not possible, because of the plumbing in place, but I love this functional tile shelf behind this freestanding tub, very functional & attractive. Good time to figure out where the towel rod is going in easy reach out of tub. Hope this helps you pick the best solution for you....See More- 13 years ago
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