Hardwood Floor Damaged During Showing..It is Just Maddening
wamot
10 years ago
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TxMarti
10 years agowamot
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Hardwood floor water damage...What should I do?
Comments (13)I had a similar situation with an icemaker line that damaged the hardwood in the kitchen and an adjacent hallway. The insurer paid for replacement of the entire downstairs because the hallway hardwood had been discontinued. The adjuster indicated that if it hadn't been discontinued, they might try to replace only a few boards. (I would have fought her if that was a serious proposal, but it wasn't.) I'll echo weissman's comment -- I sue insurers on claims like this for a living, and for a small claim it's not worth it. The insurer should have brought in fans/blowers immediately upon you reporting the claim. Sometimes the fans/blowers can work wonders with drying things out, esp. if you're on a raised foundation....See MoreHow to go about a damaged hardwood flooring?
Comments (13)This is a Centex house made in 2002. The width of the board is 2 1/4". Here is a picture of the stair step near front door that shows the wood in vertical position: There are a couple of closets that have the same wood on their floors. They are not that big so not sure how much wood can be taken from them. How involved is it to take out some boards and swap? Is it likely that the boards get damaged as they are being removed? Any links on how this is done? I don't plan on doing this myself but I like to know what is involved. Is what this guy is doing in this video applicable to such damage? Again I am just gathering information and not planning on doing this myself. Thanks. https://youtu.be/eWi3ngubUS8...See Moresolid hardwood vs. engineered hardwood
Comments (21)I'm a fan of Hickory. Love it! I love it's STRONG variation! Yep. Variation is the word that can be used for Hickory. If you are going for "mid-tone" then it means the Hickory is stained. No problem. That's fine. Hickory takes a stain very nicely. But it will still have plenty of variation. The stain will even that out a little bit, but not entirely. The finish is UV cured urethane. I'm not very excited about that finish. If you are going for factory finish, you will want to work with the TOUGHEST finishes on the market (that's why you go with factory finished...for the TOUGH finish). The UV cured urethane is a ho-hum type of finish. Average would be the best way to describe it. The thickness of the plank is 3/4" = normal for sold. The plank width is 5" with random lengths UPTO 60" (5ft). That tells me there will be many planks in the 3' - 4' range. Again, this is ho-hum average. And with a wide plank product, it will need "glue assist". And Hickory certainly needs it because it has a bit more movement (less stable) than white oak. And then there is the "low gloss" format. The low-gloss finish on this depth of colour = nightmare to live with. It will show dust, etc as well as oily foot prints, sock prints, paw prints and will look hazy at certain times during the day. The "haze" is part of the chemical make up of the finish itself = that's how they take away the gloss...they haze it with a chemical additive. The haze goes away when you sand and refinish the floor. That's the only way to fix it. If you must have a mid-tone floor, I would recommend a TOUGHER finish (aluminum oxide or ceramic infused polyurethane) in a satin. Satin is FAR MORE livable. It offers a lovely glow without being shiny. It hides skin oils (like paw prints from dogs) because it is the same gloss level as skin oils....it isn't hazy....you get the idea....See More3 week old engineered hardwood and already showing damage?
Comments (11)1) You don't necessarily have a leak based on a single board delaminating. It's certainly NOT the first thing I'd assume if I saw a delamination, especially without any other signs of moisture. Tap on the board lightly and see if you can hear a hollow sound extending down the piece. Sometimes an anomalous piece of core or veneer, or a manufacturing mistake can result in the veneer not being adhered to the core. The piece will need to be replaced and at that point the top veneer can be peeled off to inspect the adhesive layer. I had something exactly like this happen to one board on a Somerset job within the last year. 2) Recommendations on acclimation of engineered products vary across manufacturers. Quite a few don't address it at all, and some I've seen who do were in the 24 to 48 hour range. Since engineered wood doesn't move that much with normal humidity changes, I suspect that the intent is to allow it to come up to temperature. Being in Florida we don't have this issue but one might have it elsewhere. 3) Somerset uses the same type of Birch plywood other use and it's not a source of chipping or any other issue I can think of. 4) The tiny chips you have can be filled and Mohawk markers can be sourced to touch up any small worn corners or spots, though navigating their site to pick out the proper color is a challenge. 5) You should determine what made that double scratch and avoid sliding that item across the floor again. It might be possible to touch the scratches up with the Mohawk marker but deep scratches running perpendicular quite often require replacement. If a marker comes out too dark over the raw/torn wood, you can put a little clear sealer on it first (and allow it to dry) to avoid this issue. A lighter marker in the right color range is preferable to a darker marker since the lighter one can be used multiple times to reach the right depth of color....See Morenini804
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