Addition or move?
Kate Harvey
23 days ago
last modified: 23 days ago
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auntthelma
23 days agolast modified: 23 days agolittlebug Zone 5 Missouri
23 days agoRelated Discussions
Dealing with Water-Retentive Soils
Comments (80)Thank you. My question doesn't relate to avoiding salt buildup in the soil, though. I am asking about ways to facilitate gas exchange at the root zone in soils that lack proper aeration for this to happen passively. Since the act of watering displaces soil gasses, pushing out what is already there and drawing in fresh oxygen behind the water, I was curious if watering on a more frequent schedule than necessary would help mitigate the lack of passive gas exchange. Of course, you would have to manually drain the PWT each watering. There seem to be two benefits of a highly aerated container soil, from what I have read and understood so far, and they are closely related: 1. Reduces or eliminates areas that allow no gas exchange (the dreaded PWT - waterlogged areas with insufficient oxygen available for roots to respire) 2. Reduces or eliminates areas that allow insufficient gas exchange (compacted areas where the available oxygen is quickly used up and the other gasses, byproducts of root respiration, end up trapped instead of being able to diffuse out to allow new oxygen in). Now, 1. can be addressed, in part or completely, by the methods described in this thread. Ways to manually drain the soil's PWT when the soil is too dense for it to drain away passively. Are there similar strategies for dealing with 2. manually when a soil is too dense for reasonable gas exchange to occur passively? Will a more frequent watering schedule act as a manual gas exchange?...See MoreBasement laundry room move
Comments (0)I'm looking at possibly moving my washer/dryer to the other side of the basement, but I have a few questions. In addition to moving the laundry, I'd also like to add a lavatory (bar sink) just upstream of the laundry. I have above ground access to a 4inch waste line that runs along the basement floor. However, in order to tie my new line into the current line at this point, I'd have to run the new line (likely 3 inch) just above the old 4 inch line, then drop down to tie into the old waste line. Is this possible? I'd like to know before I waste my time with a permit application and discussion with an inspector. How would they connect? I'm envisioning a 3inch horizontal from the CW and lavatory traps, connecting to a sanitary tee with a cleanout, dropping down to a long sweep 4x3 wye to mate with the 4inch waste line. This is a bit of a complicated path for the waste to follow. Is it legit? If not, how could it be done so it follows code (I live in PA)? This is an old house (1915) and the basement will never be finished. I'm just trying to move the current set-up to a more favorable location. Also, for venting, I have access to a 4inch vertical in the basement that serves as the waste stack for a second floor bathroom set (WC, Lav, Bath/Shower). I'm assuming that I cannot tie into this for venting. I can run a vent line to the attic to tie into this same stack if necessary. I could also use AAVs for the basement lav and washer. For the basement lav, the distance between the trap and potential tie-in is ~30 feet. This line would serve no other fixtures other than the basement lav and CW....See MoreOpinions on this layout, please
Comments (48)I started working on this when you posted but it took me awhile to finish. Not sure if it is a workable option for you but that's for you to decide, not me. =) I moved the kitchen to the addition with the DR between it and the LR. IMO, that's a better flow. Better for entertaining and avoids the corridor kitchen set-up. I also moved the lockers and closet out of the DR to its own separate space so that mud, snow and salt from shoes and boots aren't getting tracked into the house. (I grew up in the Midwest.) I added a between the stud unit for phone and other items in the DR. It would be similar to this: You could do a combo of open and closed cabs for display and storage purposes. I widened the entry between LR and DR to give you a little more clearance around the end of the table and to allow more light to flow from one end to the other. The windows added to the DR can be done at a later point. Mulled windows - look like separate windows but are actually one big window - gain you a bit of elbow room over the whole width of the unit because you don't have the framing between the windows. We did that in our DR (and bumped it out 7" from the house) for that very reason. We gained a foot of elbow room by bumping it out but even the additional 5" of elbow room would have been helpful. Those few additional inches will make the 39" aisle at the top seem roomier than 39". Kitchen is a U of sorts with peninsula seating for 3, a large walk-in pantry, a cubby for the fridge and a wall of windows. You have decent stretches of counter to work on between sink and range and on the other side of the range, too. I voided the corners (no corner Susans, no BCC units, just support for counter) in order to gain wider drawers on each side of the corners for pots, pans, dishware, etc. Glassware storage is a bit of a hike away from the DW in the uppers to the left of the range. You could also give up one window and do an upper by the DW. The dishtowel cubby is like this: or this: Or you could do like we did and make it a narrow pull-out for storing coffee items (our coffee maker is above the DW). Coffee: good. =) The mudroom is separated from the kitchen by a pocket door. On bitterly cold days, you can keep the door closed for a little extra buffer between outside and in. Storage lockers are lined up on one side with a closet (deeper than you drew so you can hang coats on hangers) on the other. The downside is that it's a walk-through mudroom. I tried a few other variations but they all required more square footage. The addition is slightly larger than your planned addition but you gain better function, IMO. If you can swing the cost, I hope you consider it. I also tried a few variations on your proposed plan, trying to fit in Stan Z's idea of putting a pantry behind the fridge but I couldn't figure out how to make that work, not without shortchanging either the pantry or the aisle. Maybe I misunderstood his suggestion. Good luck to you, whatever you decide!...See MoreHome Renovation Dilemma
Comments (7)Which walls are load-bearing? Here's an outside-your-current-box mockup that hopefully makes reasonably good use of the existing plumbing, except that you'll need to run it to the master bath. (Kitchen -> master suit; dining -> kitchen; add family/master.) Who knows if any of this actually works without more specific dimensions, and you could certainly do a more closed off kitchen (leave the living room formal, if that's your goal?), but with busting through an exterior wall, it's going to make it hard (expensive) to make the new family room terribly open to the rest of the house. But I don't know what your use goals are....See Morela_la Girl
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