The best tool for buying a new car is the computer.Because you can research to see what people are really paying.But you can check dealer stock.You can locate the vehical you want and know the window sticker price and options before you arive.Forget the cars direct online deals.Deal with the dealer and go to several and the one you want to buy from should be your last stop. Never mention financing or trade ins until you get there best price.Forget the salesman you will more then likley have to intertain him.But remember he is nothing more then the monkey.He has nothing to do with the price you can buy the car for anyway.All he is there is a host or waiter runner middleman.He has to get everything approved by the salesmanager or owner anyway.So why even mess with him.Let him know you want to deal with the guy who is giving him all his answers. Ask for the invoice.It will be higher then the online invoice from places like Edmunds. Alway take a calculator and either a hanky or a small towel. Get there best price at a few dealers where your least willing to buy.No need waisting to much of there time or you own.Your just feeling the water to get an idea what there price will be.They will realise your not likley going to buy anyway.Because your 50 miles away from your home town. After you have gotten a few quotes.Its time to get serious and pay a visit to the dealers you want to buy from.Let them know you have been looking around and have recieved a few qoutes.Tell them you decided to give them a chance and say you operate just like the state.Lowest bidder wins.When they ask what kind of prices you were quoted.Say pretty good offers and leave it at that.Say you would rather buy local if they could beat there offers. There prices will be within a few hundred dollars.But dont let them know that.They might even be several hundred dollars less.But even so say you have to do better then that. You already know what it can be bought for because of Edmunds invoice.But you want a better deal and already have that figure memorised.Example $22.500 is the what others are paying.He is giving you a price of $24.250 and he is within a few hundred dollars of the other dealers.But you say Your wayyyyyyyyy off!He saids where do we need to be?You say under $22000 knowing your more then likley going to have to pay $22500.Thats where the calculator comes in.Before giving him the answer punch a few numbers.You might not even have it turned on.But let him know your keeping track. He will give you the line.Oh but our advertisising costs are higher thats why our invoice is higher.Thats when you hand him the hanky or small towel.Seriously I have done this.Had the salesmans rolling on the floor in tears.When I handed the 70 year old owner a towel to cry on. Never let them think your ancious and never mention financing until its a done deal.Let them know you will go elsewhere.Whenb they give you there so called best price.Example $23000 but you know it can be bought for $22500.Say $22000 take it or leave it.Stand up and say when you come to your sinces call me.Shake his hand and head for the door.He will either stop you or call the next day.Saying $22500 and thats where you want to be.Try for $22000 and if not.You just bought it for your price you set out to get it for.Congradulation you just beat him at his own game.Works for me.

Socks, not to worry.....I'm still driving my cop car, and still loving it after 17 years. I'm trading in my 4Runner. Both of these vehicles have 8 cylinders, which is why I was thinking I should get a 6. I couldn't imagine adjusting to a 4. But I believe I'll have to adjust my thinking instead. Dees is right....nobody has a 6-cyl. Subaru for sale. I drove two 4-cyl. Subarus on Wednesday--a 2011 Outback and a 2011 Forester-- and liked them both pretty well. Then today I drove a 2011 Outback Limited, and loved it. I like to think I'm a smooth driver, and this car felt like we were in synch. The price was higher, of course, and I'm getting nervous about how much I should spend. I wish I had a firm dollar amount that knew I could work with. This is the first time I've gone car shopping without a job. I also drove a 6-cyl. 2010 Toyota Rav4, and didn't like it at all. Hard to explain, but I didn't feel like I was driving it; I was sort of there to steer. And when I had to back into a parking space--something I'm usually good at--the visibility was so bad I was practically paralyzed. I'm beginning to wish I'd started this process during the summer, because I have a lot to think about. I LOVE driving my big Chevy "cop car," for the comfort, for the amazing steering radius that enables me to make U-turns in tight places, and for the big engine that can handle anything I throw at it. My 4Runner, too, can get me up to speed on a highway in the blink of an eye, which keeps me out of the way of trucks bearing down at ridiculous speeds. But everything's a trade-off, and I can't buy vehicles like those anymore. The Certified Pre-Owned cars (like the ones I've been looking at) come with nice warranties, of course, and they look terrific. The Subaru I drove today has only $28,000 miles. I've seen them as low as 8,000 miles. I find it hard to understand why someone would trade in a car with such low mileage, but that's just me. Mare, I was in W-B this week. Could have gone to MotorWorld, but I get so tired if I do too much in one day. I'll definitely be back. I may have to think about getting an older car with higher miles.....and then I start worrying about getting one that was flooded in Hurricane Sandy. I was right about one thing: Car shopping is exhausting!

Hi, Hu, A cost-plus contract typically includes the stated mark-up on all materials and labor--whether direct (builder's employees) or sub-contract labor. I may get hate mail from other builders, but in the current environment, I don't think applying the same mark up to escalated prices for either is appropriate if the client is assuming the risk of a cost-plus contract. You may wish to propose a cost-plus-fixed-management-fee contract based on the proposals you have at current prices. The issue with that arrangement, in this builder's opinion, is with regard to changes in scope. So you might have a fixed-management fee applicable to the approved plans and specs and a negotiated mark-up for changes in scope like finishing a basement shown as "unfinished basement" in the approved plans, for example. Irrespective of the form of contract between us and our clients, we believe we have a role as financial stewards on their behalf. That's how we've built our brand equity. Our brand equity is worth a whole lot more than a couple of percentage points of mark up on a project. I don't think we're alone in that. If you'd like to create an incentive for the builder to come in below the estimated cost of a cost-plus contract you can include some form of shared savings. Those savings might be shared equally between builder and client or not. The downside is that it may tempt the builder to use lower quality materials and trade labor to achieve the savings in which case it won't serve you well. Best wishes for a successful project.

Sadly, not really. Many hours have been spent in this laundry room forum lamenting the loss of what you are looking for. The last in production I can remember was ALL powder (not the free and clear), but this too is no longer available. I have two boxes saved in my linen closet for future use. Will be opening one soon... However, Grab Green makes powder and pods that smell nice in the lavender scent (haven't tried the other scents). Cleans pretty well too. Not exactly what you are looking for, but it's nice, considering what your choices are today. Hopefully I will stand corrected further down in the comments :)