I had a similar problem when I bought my home, but the sight lines extended across three lawns. Talk about a goldfish bowl! And was exposed from 2 sides too, not just one. So, I had a crew bring in enough dirt to make mounds, or berm-type raised beds across the two side lines, then planted Virburnum, some tall and narrow evergreens, one swamp oak, etc,. That was 8 yrs ago. My yard is now a bird sanctuary and totally private. The shade increased quite a bit, but I planted mostly smaller trees, like River Birch, Acer Griseum, Sentinental Maple, (which I am not fond of), and understory shrubs. Truthfully, I felt the wonderful sense of enclosure almost immediately. The mounds were straight across the lot lines, of course, but swooped in and out to varing widths within my yard. I will happily send you photos of the before and after, if you want. The virburnums, especially, were nearly instant privacy shrubs. Most are "Chicago Lustre", but for scent and beauty, plant "Korean Spice". There is a lovely summer "lilac' tree too, that isnt some giant. Just right for a small yard, and very good scent in early July. One amazing thing about enclosing ones yard...it actually looks bigger! I don't know that much about spatial views to understand why that is so, but it IS so. I hope you just go for it. Weather its just the back yard view, or all three sides, you will love the results. Pondy

rhome: Yes, the Feb. 22 version is the one being worked up. The little yellow band is the current opening to the LR, which will be widened to 11 feet (almost to the little brown closet). Also we will probably shorten the island from the current 8 feet to about 6.5. I had not really thought of things the way you describe, probably because I never have used a prep sink. I wasn't really planning on using this one much - that was my wife's idea, I figured I would use the main sink. Perhaps my tune would change if I had the option, but the concept of a separate prep and clean-up area is foreign to me. Would swapping the prep sink and the microwave make more sense? The only alternative is moving the fridge down and putting the window on the other side of it, but that leaves no light coming in that corner and a big window next to a really big door. As for running into people helping cook or doing cleanup: does that *really* happen in other peoples' kitchens? I should have such problems!! holli: Thanks for the plan and comments. I wish I had the extra width to have a pantry on the one side. I am still debating the small closet we have in that space. We may put that in the adjoining living room to keep a clean line along that wall/sightline. Your distances between prep fridge and stove are similar; do you find them problematic? Also: Does the dining area serve as your dining room? If so, how is that working out for you? Thanks, all!

I kept a log on my DIY kitchen - my total was about 850 labor hours spread over two years. In my case, I built or refaced all of the cabinets, so in many ways, each cabinet was also a "mini woodworking project". My initial estimate was 400 hours over 1 to 1.5 years. My point is that it will take longer than you think (which many previous posters have noted. There is a bunch of other good advice here. I'll add a few (may be repeats). + Write very detailed task lists that break down every step of a job or of a day's labor. Really think about each step. This will help you remember to buy tools or materials you don't have, and will help keep you focused and not miss steps. I usually started the "next list" while I was still on the last job, and when things would come to me, say in the shower, I would add them to the list. + When you gut the existing kitchen you have a *huge* opportunity to access infrastructure (plumbing, electrical, joists, etc.) that you don't normally have. Really, really think about what you might do while the walls are exposed and you can get behind them. This also makes the design so important - you don't want to come back later and think about that outlet you wish you had added, or that island sink you didn't plumb for. + Measure how level your floors are, and if they are really out of level, what is the reason and can it be fixed? Level floors make a big difference to the ease of cabinet installation, and benefit the final result. We had one section of floor that dropped 3/4 inch from the baseboard to the cabinet front (24 inches), near the double oven. Since we were replacing our 100 pound double oven with a 350 pound Electrolux monster, I used jack posts under the kitchen both to raise and to permanently support this section. + You are very likely to damage your cabinets in some way after they are delivered. Think and plan how you will keep from doing that. That could mean putting tape around tool handles, wearing non-scuff shoes, having a safe place to store the cabinets, not picking them up by the doors, using a lifting device to place and hold upper cabinets, hiring stronger people to move them, etc. + Instead of wedges and 2X4's, I used adjustable leveler legs from Rockler on all my new cabinets. At $13 per set, they are not cheap, but not expensive compared to the cost of cabinets, of my time saved, and of the ability to fine tune the level. You can find them here: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5217

Rug a bit complicated, I'd think dining set should be more the same [finishes of, etc..] e.g., maybe the table could stay dark but all else the linen/ beige upholstery. Or lighten everything and let a color from rug 'show out'... https://www.houzz.com/products/casa-faded-traditional-ivory-and-blue-rug-710x1010-prvw-vr~35555599