I don't know if this will for sure help or not, but I have taken them gently by the tail and pulled them backwards slowly through the water a few times and it has seemed to help. It supposedly forces the oxygenated water to flow through their gills. John

Thanks so much for the advice! The stop leak has been in the system for some time now. How does one get it out of the system? Also, how can I independently confirm that freon is indeed leaking? Couldn't a tech just tell me HP is leaking, even if it's not? If it is leaking, it's doing so very slowly because the house is still comfortable; it's just not as ice cold as it was when the stop leak was first applied and freon added. Is it normal for the HP to overcool immediately after freeon is added and then shift into a comfortable range several weeks out? Should I wait and see if the house gets noticably warmer, thus proving there is a leak (and not having to rely on a tech's say-so that there's a leak)? If I wait, am I running the risk of further damaging the system? Lots of questions I know, but I appreciate the advice.

Sorry for delay and thank you for your interest brickeyee. Aprilaire Humidifier model 760 flow through system. When HVAC was here in September doing fall furnace check he installed a new AA feeder tub ("NP OTP" on bill), saying the old rubber tube may have weakened and splayed at its end over the years and pose a water leak risk. He also put in a new water panel and #35 pad. There was no discussion of the Solenoid valve assembly nor of the water inlet orifice. No problem was noted on testing the humidifier except for water leakage from the gas water heater branch supply: the "saddle" valve controlling hot water supply to the dedicated humidifier line leaked. All was turned off until further investigation of this saddle valve. Below are pictures of the water valve above the gas water heater: some say it is a saddle valve (which, as all or nothing" is not allowed I gather) and others, including the company's plumber say it is a turn valve. The company plumber tightened up the nut a bit on Friday and the leak seemed to stop. The system was turned on for test, but after the plumber left I noted the continuous water running to the humidifier, heard it spraying into the box and saw the constant stream from the outlet to the sump pump so I turned it all off again. Here are key points Aprilaire owner's manual makes on the 700 models: "The correct water flow is determined by an orifice equipped with each drain type humidifier. When the humidifier is operating, there will be a small, steady stream of water to drain, which flushes away most of the trouble-causing minerals. Do not use the saddle valve to regulate the water flow. It is designed to be completely open or closed." Here are some photos-sorry can't seem to resize them on PB: http://www.aprilaire.com/themes/aa/en/manuals/Owners_%20Manua_Model_400_%20500_%20600_%20700_10006899.pdf to be completely open or closed." Basically, the Aprilaire Humidifier looks like this and has separate humidistat on return. Thanks for any advice.

most detail I know: had my semi-annual check-up and since then the heat pump will not cut off when unit reaches 'set' temp. Called company who sent a different service tech who checked every thing out and said all was OK; but unit will still not cut off unless outside temp is in low 40's or above. Prior to semi-annual check-up the temp could get into the teens and would cut off once temp was reached. Monitored it last evening between 6 PM and 11 PM with thermostat set to 'heat', fan set to 'auto'and inside temp set to 68: 6:00 PM, out temp 40: unit ran for 18 min.; off 7 min. 6:25 PM, out temp 40: unit ran for 20 min.; off 6 min. 6:51 PM, out temp 37: unit ran for 13 min.; off 6 min. 7:10 PM, out temp 33: unit ran for 24 min.; off 6 min. 7:40 PM, out temp 32: unit ran for 40 min.; off 5 min. 8:25 PM 'til 11 PM, when I retired, ran w/o stopping. woke up at 5, still running and sure it ran all night, still holding at 68. Any insight is greatly appreciated.