Jennifer and Tresw, Thanks a lot for your advice. In fact, we swam today in the pool, yeaaaahhhH! Well, not really swimming, because the water was cold, about 60F and because I let the garden hose running in fresh water for an hour to lift up the level, but as a side effect it got even colder... But the clarity is now great. It is amazing comparing to a week ago, when was a swamp... What a miracle. I got the 4 way test kit, as suggested by TRESW and the readings were not that bad. Chlorine was really really low 0.4-0.6, but Ph was just right 7.6 and TA was 80 ppm (could have been 70 ppm, but with the background coloring I could not really say). The leaks are really big issue though. I broke the cement around the skimmer and now I can see the top plastic of the feeding tunnel (about 3-4 inches deep down), and it has about 0.5 inches water. What is even more worrisome is that the water is about 2" above the pool level, which means that the walls are all filled up with water all the way to the concrete deck and it is overflowing from any crack the water can get through. Also, the lines around the concrete deck are wet, as I dug about an inch deep around and now water started amassing around. And this is on the other side of the pool... I am having a serious leakage, that is for sure. I will rent these days a power hammer from Home depot and I intend to break to pieces the deck. The problem is I have not decided what to do with the debris yet. Any suggestions? As for the dead animal, I am no longer worried. I cleaned, and shocked, and cleaned, and shocked and now I believe there is nothing left from it... I hope. I certainly will avoid any contact of the water with my mouth for the next month or so, but overall I think I am over this now :) Thanks for all support and advice. If something else comes out, please shoot. I am ready to make some pics and post them online for discussion. Best, Lubo

I need to get it on a wireless remote or switch. I have Colorlogic lights and the switch is inside my pool timer. By design, I put my equipment pad behind a wall so it won't be seen from the pool, deck or terrace, only thing is when I want to change colors or turn on a specific color I have to flip the switch (on/off), walk 10 ft to see what color the pool is on and then go back and forth till I get the right color. I guess with any other light it is on or off, no problem but Colorlogics are a different ball game since there are 12 colors. God forbid if I pass the color that I want. It is awkward when trying to show off my lights to friends/family cause I have to walk back and forth like a moran. I definitely have to automate this process. I'll have to try PoolGeek's suggestion, then it doesn't matter where the switch is.

cnr1089....Thanks for the additional info. With the reported filter gage pressure, I also suspect too many restrictions between the pump and the pool. With the choice of a 2 speed pump, clearly, you're energy concious. Energy savings only comes with low speed filtering and optimizing plumbing hydraulics. In your case, you have the pump that is capable of low speed but unfortunately do not have the optimum hydraulic design. Getting a variable speed is only a band aid to fix the symptom and will result in higher operating costs due to higher speed operation. As poolguy recommends....running the heaters in parallel will help significantly. Also, having bypasses for high speed operation is recommended. I think all the heating manufacturers recommend this in their installation manuals. These plumbing changes will require valving and preferably automation...hopefully your current automation system has the capability of handling the extra automation requirements to make the system work conveniently without having to run to the pad when needed. Hope this helps.

NEC 680.23 requires that underwater luminaires more than 15V must be GFCI protected. The "typical" pool light at 110/115V requires GFCI protection. In a wet niche, they must also be mounted a minimum of 18" below the water surface Low voltage pool lighting at 12V does not require GFCI protection. If the low voltage light is set in a wet niche installation, the niche must be bonded inside and on the back side. Nicheless, low voltage, LED lights do not require grounding or bonding. Nor do they have a means to do so. Depending on the manufacturer, they utilize either 1.5" or 2" PVC pipe as a means for installation through a pool wall. They can be set close to the water surface. Generally 8"-10" below the water surface provides the best illumination. ALL the pool equipment since 2008 has to be GFCI protected. Prior to that, it was just pool lights. Bonding requirements have changed also. BONDING IS NOT THE SAME AS GROUNDING. A qualified and experienced electrician is the best person to review your pool set up.