Well as I have said in previous post's on both this forum and other The 3oinch can do the Job but you may have to go over the new ground more than once. The Hydraulic tiller may even take more than one pass the first time. The mechanical tiller is like having a walk behind but it is mounted. The hydraullic tiller weights 265lbs for the GX300 or X500 series The 30inch weights 145lbs. Here is what Deere says about the 42inch tiller " It is wider than the 30inch Mechanical tiller More compact and less costly than the 647 Tiller" and he is what Deere also says "The 42inch reversible-tine tiller includes self-contained hydraulic reservoir,pump and motor to run tine shaft. it offers the distinct advantage of being much quieter than conventional chain- driven tillers,plus housing mounting points can be reversed for back tilling(tines rotate in opposite direction of tractor wheels and tires)Back tilling is generally used for breaking new ground and cultivating harder,compacted soil" Now if you reverse the housing around remeber to go slow as slow as you can when back tilling. To tell you the truth The Hydraulic tiller is more versitible than the 30inch mechanical tiller because you can back till with it. Which is another reason I bought mine for my X485 and I didn't want a 48inch wide(647) tiller mostly for storage space. I had a JD 425 with a 450 tiller which took up alot of room. Go with the 42inch Hydraulic tiller You will not regret it Except maybe when your mounting it. I have a 3point so it pretty easy. Where yours will be a frame mount. all I have done to my Hydraulic tiller is change the filter and Hydraulic fluid every two years and had to replace on cotter pin I have had it since spring 2004. The 30inch tiller can do it but it will take longer and several passes in that New York soil Which is what it took me with the soil conditions around Fort Drum and around Watertown New York which was alot of Clay and rocky soil it was a 30inch mounted on a JD240. The Hydraulic tiller for the most part will till throught ground like it's butter. I till over 3acres twice a year with my Hydraulic tiller and do other tilling projects for neigbors. I Actually have two Hydraulic tillers the other is a 30inch Hydraulic tiller mounted on a 2002 Cub Cadet 2206 which the wife uses for her Flower garden plots. Just saying in the past I made do with the 30inch mechanical tiller and it can do the job. But now that I have the Hydraulic driven tillers I would never go back to the Mechanical driven tillers. So I hope this helps I vote for the 42inch Hydraulic driven Tiller and good luck with this years Garden plots and projects. Here is a link that might be useful: 42inch tiller

In regard to welding "some supports" to get it through the season. If you have a good welding shop or machine shop in your area, it can be welded to last for as long as you care to keep the machine. What always causes concern for me in "weld repairing" something of this nature is in getting the damaged spindle back into the correct alignment, plane, and height. If the spindle mounting platten is not exactly level at all points of the compass, and is not at the same height as the other 2 spindles, you WILL have a profound difference in the height of the cut and it will stick out like a sore thumb. A good welding shop or machine shop will be able to address these issues, provided you voice your concern ahead of time. If you do decide to go the welding route, at least clean the deck thoroughly top and bottom with a good pressure washing job before you take it to someone for evaluation/estimates. And don't just clean a little spot around where you think they would weld, clean the entire deck, top and bottom. They need all the clean surfaces for alignment references. And don't use the word "supports". Say........."reinforcement". You also need to determine if the spindle shaft or quill is bent before you set out to get the deck welded. There must be a good, undamaged spindle to use for alignment at that position of the deck.

No additional post you must be finished! Just in case your not, the liner tips I promised. Someone else may be putting up an AG pool and use them. First you will need a NEW liner. I have seen ppl move pools and try and use the old one. It didn't work. They get brittle in no time, and lining up the skimmer and return holes would be really hard. If you can afford to get some S-clip and hang a beaded liner. They are much easier and changing them later on is easier too. Put the liner in the pool, don't drag it accross the wall. At this point your wall is in and bolted up, and your uprights are secured to the bottom plates only. A small piece of duct tape can be used to hold them to the wall, so they don't flop around. They shouldn't but if it's windy or you have to stop for the night it's a good idea. Ok, unfold the liner and start pulling it over the wall. About two feet at first, this part you kinda have to eyeball. This where a beaded liner is nice, you just start putting the liner in the bead. Back to overlap liner. Again as many family friends and neighbors is good here. You will hold the part of the liner drapped over the wall, with coping strips. They are about 2 ft long and available at your local AG pool dealer. Get new ones, the old ones are prob cracked a brittle. Once the liner is over the wall all the way around, try and get it as even as possible. If you chose a liner with a print bottom, the print should be at the base of the pool wall. A note here about the bottom. It has been a while since I installed a AG. Order brick sand, or mortar sand from a local dealer. If they can get it inside the pool area that is GREAT! If not, it has to be hand moved via wheel barrow, unless you still have that bobcat around. Bottom should be about 2" deep,and we always built up a cove around the bottom track. Cove is sand at a 45 deg angle. Damp sand with garden hose, it trowels easier. If you have a shop vac, you can put a hose through the skimmer, where the lid goes, behind the liner. Duct tape around the hose to seal it off and turn on the shop vac. This pulls air from behind the liner. It takes a while, but if you get good suction you can get your wrinkles out of the liner before you start water. Once you start water you must stay with the pool until water is about 4" up the wall. Let slack out by pulling up on the coping strip where the stress is. The liner will slip down until the stress is relieved, put the coping strip back on. Go around the pool relieving stress on each coping strip untill the liner stays in place and no longer pulls on the wall. The water will be up on the wall by now. If there are any wrinkles you can work them out with a mop or broom. If you have to get inside the pool, make sure your barefoot. You can start topping off the pool when the water is up the wall. Don't cut in your skimmer and return until water is halfway up or better. Some people don't cut them in until water is up to the skimmer. We had other pools to get to so we did. You may wish to wait. Hope this helps, I have read the instructions that come with these pools and had a good laugh. If you can get past the broken english, many are made overseas, they give the impression one man, can put these up in one day, by himself. I'd like to see that. There are probably web pages now that show pictures, that would help. But I had fun writing this and seeing how much I remembered. Good luck again, and post some pics when your done. Colt

Ontariomom, I wonder with the set up that Ice has if that still might work for you because the panels are not solid up to the railing. I think the opening above the frosted glass makes it much less a barrier than frosted glass all the way up. I don't think it would appear to block the house like other, more solid choices would. And it would give you a bit of privacy on that deck, plus solve the cleaning issues. You could explore the code for how much space above the glass to the railing you could have.