gaps in new wood floor - what's acceptable?
tsherman
14 years ago
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judydel
14 years agoolga_d
14 years agoRelated Discussions
acceptable gap size in new wood floor
Comments (15)No! All boards should be milled correctly and by saying that we are not necessarily talking about the "straightness" of the board. Many boards are likely to have a curve in them that gets straightened out during installation with a floor nailer.The milling issues wood be in the planing and routing of the board and would include things like chattering of the surface and tongues and grooves inconsistently cut. There will always be some culled boards but any reputable manufacture will have consistent milling of all size boards...See MoreNew engineered wood floor has gaps
Comments (1)Rarely any easy fixes can be done here unless you'll settle for some matching filler. Board replacements are possible if there aren't many involved. Without actually seeing it I would probably opt for filler because the installer may not be able to handle board replacements very easily....See MoreWhat is acceptable in terms of gaps for hardwood floor in a new build?
Comments (24)Hi, Worthy, I can't speak for the NAHB or how they arrived at their standard; I'm just a single, soggy southern swamp dweller. NOFMA (The Wood Flooring Manufacturers Association) says this about gaps in hardwood flooring: "Normal gaps may vary in width from "hairline" gaps thickness of stationary, to more significant gaps, up to or greater than the thickness of a quarter. The larger gaps are expected in those geographical areas associated with an extended dry heating season, and warm, mild humid summers that require little air conditioning, i.e., the Great Lakes or New England area...Plank floors, because of widths involved can shrink individually up to 3+ times as much as 2 1/4" wide strip floors."...See MoreVinyl flooring has gaps! Acceptable or not?
Comments (14)Here's my problem with 'tapping' them back together: It won't work. Not with thin vinyl (anything less than 5mm is thin). It is too flexible. You can whack it at one and but it will buckle in the middle instead of moving down the way its supposed to. If these gaps are everywhere (and they probably are) then there are some SERIOUS issues with multiple situations: 1. Contractor competence with vinyl plank install. Vinyl is NOT laminate. It does NOT ACT like laminate. It does not 'click' like laminate. It is NOT like laminate. 2. The SUBFLOOR PREPARATION. Vinyl CANNOT HANDLE wonky subfloors. It 'unzips' itself (like yours is doing right now) if the subfloor is wavy or has dips/hollows. 3. Once vinyl unzips itself, it needs to be CAREFULLY PULLED UP and the ISSUES FIXED and then it must be reinstalled. Warning: vinyl has VERY delicate click edges. The edges are NOT like laminate. They cannot be slammed together. They break. As soon as an edge is broken the plank needs to be pulled and another used. When removing vinyl, the edges have a tendency to BREAK. Yah. Damned if you do and damned if you don't. So my question to homeowner: How much did you PAY for subfloor preparation? What was the floor that USED to be there? What is the subfloor material? Concrete slab or plywood joist construction?...See Morersslp
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