In more research about SH HRW paint I keep (and only) see it associated w/ optical applications, most notably theater rooms. What are the reasonings that one would chose a high reflective paint for such applications?

I would err on the side of darker when it comes to volume and abundant light. Mo'space, mo'light usually equates to mo'color. But here's the thing about that strip from BenM. It's from the Classic Colors collection. Each color on each strip in that entire fandeck is an *individual* color. Meaning while the colors on each strip share similar characteristics, but they each have their own colorant provenance. They are NOT 'let-downs' from a parent color. Only about 30 - 40 percent of all strips/fandecks are literal let-downs from a parent color. Most of them are like Classic Colors. Colorant mixes are similar but technically the colors on the strips are not exact steps starting with a dark, saturated color and graduating *up* to lighter values and saturation. In other words, Smoke Embers is not the darker version of Nimbus. They are two distinctly different colors that simply share similar core colorant(s) and thus color characteristics... and end up being organized on the same strip of 7 colors. Ben Moore's other collection, Color Preview, IS comprised of let-downs. Mathematically, technically each step on those strips are regimented, starting with the darker, saturated color and graduating up to lighter, less chromatic.

Not in my opinion. I think about primer as it relates to color specifically like this: Primer's function isn't about the old color. Primer's function is all about the new color. If your new color has a transparent viscosity and requires the boost of a tinted primer to achieve proper opacity, then you need to use a primer. If your new color is robustly opaque, and you buy a top tier grade, then it will achieve proper opacity over any color in two to three full coats. Primer as it relates to the condition of the substrate is a different conversation. Substrate means the wall surface. An example would be if you stripped wallpaper and have residual glue to deal with, then you'd need to prime with GARDZ. Or, if you have chipping flaking paint, then you'd need to prime with Peel-Bond. Or, if you're painting a laminate IKEA bookshelf then you'd need a bonding primer. Etc. An existing dark wall color does not mean you need to prime. Last note about primer is that it does not go on uniform and even. Primer dries to a splotchy final finish. Which loops all this together and makes sense. It's splotchy because it's *more* about surface prep, not necessarily just about color prep.

okay, i'll take a look.