don't mix yellow beige's with pinkish beige's Those two kinds of beiges when placed together can create an odd, unnatural color harmony. In general, those two kinds of colors can benefit and look their best when used with other colors -- they don't make the easiest color partnership to work with. The yellow beige, pinky beige situation is not an impossible circumstance. I believe -- I know -- that there are color solutions for every color challenge. The yellow beige/pinky beige is one of the tougher challenges and sometimes just might be beyond the grasp of DIY colorists. white in a low light room will not make the room look brighter, just more dim. Not necessarily "more dim" because the quality of light will still be the quality of light. Dim is dim. If the room receives an amount of natural light that is best described as "dim", it's still going to be dim even if you paint the walls white. The quality of natural light didn't change. Only the wall color changed to white. Intuitively it would seem that white would be the antidote to cure dim. But that's not how it works because color and light are partners. White is comprised of many wavelengths of light and it needs a light source that is robust and full to look pretty . Dim light doesn't give white paint much in the way of wavelengths to reflect back into the space -- and that's what white does, reflect. The problem is this. The sunroom, which is really part of the house and we just call it that since it has 7 windows and gets alot of south and western light, is still casting a greenish cast to the Latte. It literally looks like a different color than what is in the living room. I will live with it but for the future could you tell me where I went wrong and what I should do for the future It's that color and light partnership thing again. One color isn't going to look the same in every room due to varying qualities of inherent light -- like you've discovered. Assuming that one color is going to work in every room probably isn't the best thing to assume. You still have to sample and evaluate each paint color in each room. Determining a color's undertone is just one small step. Rules about what kinds of undertones are suppose to go with -- or not go with -- other kinds of undertones do not deal with the reality of color in three-dimensional spaces. Remember how I said that once you establish a sense of undertone for a color, you still have to evaluate it carefully in the room, in the context that it will reside? We need to do that because we cannot look at colors in isolation, the appearance of any color is affected by what surrounds it. For the next time you have to make some color choices, I'd say don't get so wrapped around the rules and what everyone says is suppose to work or not work. Relax your expectations for paint colors; they don't have to be so tight and so high. Stay organized and trust your instincts and what you *see* and go with your gut more. Focus on your core paint color knowledge. You now understand undertones a whole lot better than you did before. You may have made a few mistakes in your opinion, but don't focus on the mistakes. Instead focus on what you learned. Use that experience to *see* color better next time. When the time comes to buy a new sofa, focus on how the fabric samples look in the room and do your best to make a decision. When the time comes to get a new stair runner, then deal with the stair runner. Don't look too far ahead. You can only effectively color for your now. Make the best color decisions that you can one at a time and any future color decisions will fall easier into place -- that's actually one way to interpret "building a color scheme".

Funcolors-decided to keep the Berry Red. Couldn't bring myself to change it once I looked at other colors.

You can also reach out to Funcolors on twitter http://twitter.com/#!/funcolors and her website: http://www.colorstrategies.net

I kind of spoke on behalf on the contractor, now let me voice the other side. Many painters aren't good business people for many reasons one of which is not articulating very well what they do. An unexpected skill in my job is translator. I translate to the painter what the homeowner is "really saying", I translate to the homeowner what the painter is "really doing". Many painters quote by "feel". They just know how much all things paint stuff should cost. Done it long enough they know how long it's going to take, how much paint, difficulty i.e. moving and protecting furnishings, setting up ladders & scaffolds, etc. Itemizing all that with prices can be tough for someone who doesn't relish articulating the finer details of what they do to begin with. And you do have a point that I wholeheartedly agree with, many of them just assume that we all see what they see in terms of scope of work. I know I most certainly did not. Took me a while to understand all the layers and how they contribute to the bottom line. $50 - $150 can be attributed to region, what's considered "standard" for a specific market. East coast costs compared to on-the-border costs where I am in the southwest almost always differ greatly. Second biggest factor in determining just how much a bunch o'color is gonna cost you is difficulty in execution. You're paying for skill, not just labor (like washing brushes) when it comes to execution. Where do the colors change - 8ft, 10ft, 22ft ceilings?, how many transitions, and the actual colors. Transitioning midtones room to room is a lot easier than incorporating several dark accent walls in a sea of light Latte-colored walls. When I spec color, I'm totally aware of just how is it going to get done, how much is it going to cost and do we have that kind of time and money to work with. Sometimes I have no choice but to come up with less complicated options. So it all depends. And that's why a range of $50 -$150 is a good benchmark to reference in broad, non specific discussions like this one.