The washer trap and drain will be connected above the floor line and yes you ca tie into the vent line above the floor.

Seldom are closets so tight that you would need an air vent.

It will be much easier to tie in below the floor level.... that shouldn't be a problem should it?

The pipe pictured above on the left is where I was going to tap in.

Electric or gas dryer?

You really should have a vent in the door.

If you cut in a 45 degree wye below the floor, the trap and drain above the floor.

Are you planning to penetrate the roof again, for the washer drain, or loop back to the vent and install another vent "T"?

Cutting the vent twice, not just once.

It's as electric dryer, the drain pipe will be mounted in the wall, via a outlet box, using 2" pipe straight down, through the floor. Was planning on doing the trap below the floor line, and run it into the vent.... which will act as drain also.
Something similar to attached diagram; EXCEPT the trap below the floor line

ALL dryers need airflow. They suck air in through the heating source, blow it outdoors through the exhaust ... so there must be reasonably unobstructed airflow available into the closet. Space between the floor and the closet door may or may not be enough.

Ok, but the stand pipe have a max length, beyond which the trap can siphon dry exposing you to sewer gasses.

If the 2" pipe goes 42" above the floor.... and I connect to the trap just below the floor, I reckon it would be about 50"...

@snoonyb Do you know what the maximum stand pipe length is?

The link describes what the UPC requirements are.

http://www.nachi.org/forum/attachments/f22/47505d1313752516-washer-standpipe-standpipe.jpg

This is a discussion;http://www.appliance411.com/faq/washer-drain.shtml

One more question folks,

Is it possible to run the 2" pipe in the wall of a finished wall, down through the wall? and what would be the best approach for drilling the hole for the pipe?

Open the wall 18" above the location.

Use a 2-1/4" hole saw, drill part way through and use a chisel to break and remove. Repeat as many times as necessary.

Or rent a hole-hog, a plumbers 2-1/4" bit and extension.

Do I need to open the hole larger than the outlet box size?

The outlet box will be about 36" above the floor.

You need an opening sufficient to accommodate the tool you are using.

Thanks, this is the area I'm putting them.

That's unfortunate.
The outlet box should be a clean cut and installation.
The cut for the waste installation needs to be from stud center to stud center, wide and high enough to allow the tool to comfortably fit and be manipulated.

It'll be easier to patch.

This post was edited by snoonyb on Mon, Oct 6, 14 at 2:20

Okay, perhaps that may be the best route. I knew eventually we'd remove the wallpaper and paint white anyway.

This is an electric water heater. When my electrician friend helps me wire the washer, we'll run a new line to the heater as well.

Bit of a problem... I made a hole, found insulation, which was cool. When I made a small hole, I realized the board on the bottom sits on the foundation wall. I had wanted the pipe to be in the wall... but now it will have to be outside the wall, well on the bottom?

Whats the best advise for dealing with this? I'll add a couple more photos.

Here's a shot showing down in the open hole.

This explains why the wire for the water heater up like this.

I guess it depends on where you live in Georgia. We live in the far SE corner. No zoning restrictions here. Anything goes. We had our washer outside for years because the previous owner said it leaked. I felt like a total redneck. But it was closer to the clothes line and I didn't have to carry the laundry down the steps. We may live crudely but we enjoy it and I feel closer to God living this way.

Actually, it's what I would have expected and is typical for a raised foundation.
It's very easy. You just use a long turn 1/8th bend, and the elec. and any other penetrations, outside of the wall cavity, were done that way, as a matter of convenience, and not good workmanship.

@Snoonyb can you explain a little more? I was looking at it and realizing I could drill up into the cavity at an angle. Is that what you meant?

@zackey yeah, it has been nice having it closer to the clothes line.... :)

Yes. Start with the drill shaft at a 45 degree angle to the floor joists and as you are proceeding, push the shaft toward the foundation, and you should end up in the wall cavity.

If you are a little off for a long turn 1/8th bend, (hub-no-hub), a sawzall can correct that.

Enjoy the learning curve.

Thank you, I'll follow up on this!

All right, got the holes drilled in, and everything is looking great. As I started running the pipe for the hot water, noticed that the current line coming out of the water heater is 3/4" CPVC. I got 1/2" CPVC pipe and connectors running to the washing machine. I going down from 3/4" to 1/2" all right on a washing machine?

Yes, that's fine.

Thanks!

Coming along! May end up cutting another inch or so in the drywall above to offer better support (on drywall that is)

I just have to tie in the lines (hopefully tomorrow.)

A Pro Electrician friend will help me with the wiring.