How long will the sight line be looking at the sink? If it is a long view, then yes I would probably have a problem with the p trap and lines not being centered. If you really can't see the sink until you are at it (as is the case with small baths) I wouldn't mind at all. Is it a guest bath as is when you have guests sleeping over? Or a guest bath for anyone you have any guests in the house? I think that too would determine if the pipes not being centered would bug me. If it is used rarely, not so much worry, used weekly, more concerned. How off centered??? Semi:

Thank you for your input & advice. Okay, ramdon thoughts: Actually, I was planning on me & the kids doing it ourselves with the father-in-law & husband 'supervising'. I am not trying to cut corners too sharply or be cheap, it's just I don't think we can afford to hire someone professionally, although I am going to call around & have 2 or 3 guys come out & give me quotes. I thought I could save some money for starters by buying all the materials needed myself. Thanks for reminding me about calling the other utilities, I had forgotten about that. I live out in a rural area & alot of people around here do this type of job themselves. The town I live in only has about 300 people in it so I would have to get someone from the next town over, about 25 miles away. There's always the hassle of finding someone who is willing to come this far out & there's usually an extra fee. I know it's not the same thing, but I feel like if my son & I can handle a tiller, we should be able to do this, or at least some of it. Actually, I am the one who came up with the idea to rent a ditch witch, not my father-in-law. I'll have to check first, but as far as I know, the only utility lines is telephone. We're on butane but that runs from the back of the house. Electrical lines are above ground, not below. Sewer is a septic tank & is behind the house. The house has 2 bathrooms but one isn't used because that's where the washing machine is & it's a tight squeeze between the washing machine & toilet (has a shower only). Eventually, I want the washing machine out because I don't like it in there anyway. About 5 feet from my back door is an efficiency apartment that my son uses for his bedroom. The previous owners ran a water line between the houses when they had the apartment built. It is actually the back of this apartment that the back outside faucet is located. All around the main house is a concrete walkway including the area at the faucet. Sooo, I am thinking we probably won't replace from there & into the house unless absolutely necessary. I don't know for sure, but I think the inside lines are the old copper ones. If those have to be replaced then that will be done by a professional & at a later date. Right now we are having to turn the water on & off at the meter so hopefully the bill won't be too bad.

I am trying to visualize your layout and if I am correct you should have a third valve on the line that you may not have located. If I am correct your problem may be much easier than you think. Typically the municipal main is located in an easement parallel to the roadway about 5' to 8' wide parallel to the roadway. (In areas where there are sidewalks the utility easement is in the treebelt between the roadway curb and the sidewalk.) There should be a "Curb box valve" located in that easement that defines the point of demarcation between the municipal main and the house "Supply Line". The curb box valve is a "Keyless hydrant" valve located totally underground. On the surface you should find a small round cast iron cover flush with the finished grade about 4" to 6" in diameter that is held in place by a hex head nut and the word "Water" is visible as raised embossed lettering on the cap. This is the valve that the water service provider would turn off to discontinue water service and while most plumbers have a curb box wrench, in some jurisdictions only bona fide employees of the water service company are legally permitted to have a curb box service wrench. When the cast iron cap is removed it reveals a hollow pipe extending down to the valve which is on the line below grade. The service wrench is simply a steel rod 3" to 10" long with a Tee hnndle on one end and on the opposite end it has a U shaped piece of steel that fits over an extended flat steel bar on the valve. The rod is put down the pipe until it contacts the valve then it is turned a 1/4" turn to shut the valve off. The buried line from the curb box valve to the structure is then classified as the "Supply Line". Typically for houses with a basement the water meter is located in the basement in the immediate vicinity of where the supply line enters the structure. For houses on slab the meter is typically installed in a buried Meter vault at any convenient point between the utility easement and the structure. Code Requires that all structures must have a "Main Shutoff Valve" in close proximity to where the Supply line enters the structure. (Most codes define close proximity as a distance not more than 6'). For houses on slab the Main shutoff is typically installed in a Valve box immediately outside the foundation where the water line enters the building. (For houses with a basement the main shutoff is immediately inside the basement wall.) The "Main Shutoff" is the official point of demarcation between the house "Supply Line" and the house "Distribution lines". These demarcation points are important because code defines the size and type of pipe and materials we may use to install these lines and it may be radically different. By example PVC is permitted for Supply Piping but it is prohibited for Distribution piping. The gate valve which you describe as being on a copper pipe just before it enters the house is your "Main Water Shutoff Valve". If this valve is in a valve box or vault that is immediately accessible it technically is not in a concealed location so you may be permitted to use copper compression fittings here(chech with your local code official). If so, the easy solution would be to cut the copper pipe and use compression fittings to install a new ball valve. If you can cut the old valve out while doing this thats great, but if not simply remove the handle from the old valve and leave the valve in place. The second option would be to contact your water service provider and have them turn the service off temporarily to permit you to service the lines. In a worst case scenario where you may need to replace the supply line it is not as difficult as you might imagine. Typically we would use a Ditch Witch type trenching machine which has a cutter bar that looks like a super chainsaw on steroids. The trencher cuts a 4" to 6" wide trench to the required depth of up to 6 or 8ft and some have an attachment on the bar that will actually lay the new pipe as it cuts the trench. Some of the machines also have a small backhoe bucket on the opposite end plus a small bulldozer blade which is used for backfilling. Your total run is 60 feet so the total trenching time would be in the order of about 10 to 15 minutes plus the time to lay the pipe and backfill with a minimal disturbance to your landscaping. Keep in mind that they would need to hand dig on each end to make the final connections plus the time to deliver and setup the machine so a total service time of 4 to 5 hours would be about normal. The California Code is primarily based upon the Uniform Plumbing Code so your options of pipe materials should be continuos roll copper pipe, types K & L which is approved for direct burial, continuous roll Polyethelene pipe, PEX tubing, PEX-AL-PEX pipe, or PVC pipe.

The plumbing for this type of sink is decorative and functional, not the junk you were given. If this is a new build, your GC should be involved in this and you should not be dealing with the plumber yourself. I would talk to the GC and complain about the installation being inappropriate for the supplied sink fixture and ask whether he is going to make it appropriate or give you a discount for doing that on your own later. I do believe I have also read about pex not liking UV light and that should be a simple google for you to discover. Use that info to get the GC to pony up for a good plumber, or to pay for the repair after the closing. If you can get them to give you stubs, the correct plumbing in the finish of your choice is available from places like Vintage Tub and Bath. You can keep the supply coming from the floor. I see it in Satin nickel here on Houzz, but not brass. Vintage Tub and Bath has 30" high water supplies that go through the floor that are meant for a bathtub, in polished brass. With turn-off valves and escutcheons for covering the floor hole. Click on the "specifications" link and you can see how they connect to your pex. Cheviot straight supply lines.