DIY In Ground Sprinkler System
harry_wild
10 years ago
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woodbutcher_ca
10 years agoharry_wild
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Adding Drip Irrigation Zone to Existing Sprinkler System
Comments (1)Since you're using anti-siphon valves, I assume you don't have a backflow prevention device between your valve manifold and your main supply line. The anti-siphon feature of your valves is intended to prevent possibly contaminated water from being sucked back into the main line. This method of backflow control is now generally viewed with disfavor, and may not comply with applicable codes. If the valve is not positioned at the mandated height above the sprinkler or drip line, the anti-siphon feature is defeated. On the bright side, a simple $10 backflow preventer is usually all that is required for a soaker hose or drip line, and when you open the valve, the water will flow. You will also need an inexpensive pressure regulator. Putting this together may be a bit tricky, and you will need to bear in mind the incompatibility of hose threads and pipe threads as you select the requisite components....See MoreSprinkler System Help
Comments (1)tm, Hardie Controller(how old?) and Hunter heads are respectable brands. Heads can be any brand. Hunter have a very good reputation but less expensive ones will do. Check what the model # of head is and check on the internet for the flow rate for that model. You will need to know your water pressure(zone operating pressure. Are these rotor heads or regular pop ups? The head in the down position should be low enough in the lawn not to be hit from the lowest setting of your mower. Mine are about flush or a little lower than the earth. I don't want the dirt coming back in the line when the irrigation goes off and the lines start to empty. Aloha...See MoreCan DH do a do-it-yourself sprinkler system?
Comments (4)merdena, yes! I say this from my own experience. In other words, 'if I could do it, anyone can.' I had two advantages. I worked in a hardware store and I did 18 hours of "irrigation school". The most important thing I learned in school was to identify and name correctly the many and various fittings. My first investment was in a can each of cleaner and glue, some pipe and fittings and a hacksaw. My first successful project was extending the water supply to our washing machine. It had to be removable to leave the original fixture intact when we left the apartment. PVC is a particular joy to work with because if you make a mistake, you can use the hacksaw to get back to the drawing board. I practised aligning fittings (without glue) to make piping go where I wanted. Then I would glue the project, test it and cover it up. Two habits I formed were to always use colored glue so that I could spot a joint that was not glued and to always use teflon tape on threaded fittings. Hardware stores have these free booklets which will walk you through the project from beginning to end. You yurself will not be able to resist getting into the act; there are so many spinoffs! Like making PVC furniture, plant supports, lightweight shelving and (clothing) racks etc. etc....See MoreDo you use sprinkler, sprinkler system or soaker hoses?
Comments (9)Hi Marti, this is the info that came with some of our hoses. The manufacturer recommends spacing between soaker hoses based on soil type. On sandy soils the hose should be 1 to 1.5 feet apart. On loam soils, hose spacing should be 1.5 to 2 feet apart. And on clay soils spacing should be 2 to 3 feet apart. If you have a heavy soil, which is hard to dig, then use the 2 to 3 feet spacing as you wind or spiral the hosing in and around the plants to be watered. The manufacturer also indicates that the hose should be operated at low pressure and flow  10 to 30 pounds per square inch (PSI). However, this requires the addition of a pressure regulator at the supply end of the hose. Rather than attaching a pressure regulator, I suggest just barely opening the hose bib to obtain the smallest amount of water flow through the hose. Although not scientific, my tests have indicated that by just opening the hose bib slightly, the flow rate of water out the hose is about .6 gallons per foot-of-hose per hour. So, a 50 foot soaker hose would apply about 30 gallons of water per hour. Comparing this to the output of one gallon drip emitters on standard 3-foot spacings, the soaker hose applies double the amount of water over the same given time. The time needed to water with a soaker hose will depend in great part on the type of plants being watered. Trees require the longest soaking since their roots can extend down 3 feet. Small garden plants and ground covers need the shortest soaking since their roots extend down only 12 to 18 inches. The object is to allow the water to penetrate down to the rooting depth. When laying out the hose over the area to be watered, remember to watch spacing. When watering trees, start the soaker hose a few feet from the trunk. Spiral the hose out several feet beyond the edge of the branches. This will allow watering of a substantial portion of the roots. When watering shrub or ground cover beds, snake the hose through the area, extending the hose just a foot or so beyond the outermost branches. Turn the hose on and allow the water to run 30 to 60 minutes, then check the depth of wetting. You can do this by using a metal soil probe. A 3-foot piece of metal re-bar or a thick wooden dowel will work. The rod can be pushed through moist soil, but stops when dry soil is encountered. Measure the depth of wetting and adjust the watering time of the soaker hose accordingly. It may take several hours to properly water a tree. A final suggestion. Rather than run your soaker hose for a continuous time period, try running it in cycles  one hour on and one hour off until the desired depth of wetting is reached. This will further slow the rate of application and increase absorption....See Morerwiegand
10 years agobrankulo
10 years agoharry_wild
10 years agoharry_wild
10 years agojohnboy70_99
10 years agokudzu9
10 years agojackfre
10 years ago
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