DIY mantel hood - is this possible?
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10 years ago
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10 years agoRelated Discussions
Need Advice - Kitchen Hood/Makeup Air
Comments (42)Any time the flow of air (or part of the air) has to change its velocity vector (direction and/or speed), even slightly, work is done on the air, and this requires either heating or force times distance. Pressure is force over area. Velocity change occurs not only when a duct bends, but when there is turbulence in the duct or at the duct walls, or when the air is forced through a filter, around baffles, etc. Thus, there are many ways that pressure drops occur along a flow path. If not, one could blow through a straw without having to build up pressure in one's mouth. I use a large (three-foot-square) vaned ceiling diffuser to introduce MUA into a hallway adjunct to the kitchen. The diffuser is about 18 feet from the edge of the hood. This configuration was the best option relative to where I could take the air from the roof area. It is my expectation that by the time the air gets to the vicinity of the hood it is flowing relatively smoothly and low in velocity due to the size and length of the hall. Certainly other approaches would work for other kitchens depending on where the air is taken from and how a house is architected. Test kitchens use a porous diffuser panel in an adjacent wall to the hood under test. I am sure that from a functional point of view, MUA flowing out from enough toe-kick area would also work, so long as it wasn't somehow directed at the stove. For example, if a cooktop were on an island, and the entire toe-kick area were grilled using a set of registers, the MUA would flow out and then up in a way that did not disturb the rising effluent from the pans. Even down flow behind a refrigerator can work if the path behind and underneath the refrigerator is relatively open (several times the area of the supplying duct.) Never forget that perfect is the enemy of good enough, and what we are trying to accomplish is good enough capture of grease, moisture, and odor. Good enough is also user dependent, so not everyone needs to put up with the compromises that a nearly perfect MUA system would impose on a house. So, my best advice is to find a way to introduce the air that doesn't blow at the cooking zone and disturb the natural rise of the cooking effluent. kas...See MoreHood Ventilator Insert: Does wider size/more baffles =more noise?
Comments (19)Thank you all so much, antss, buff, trevor, and emilner! I'm placing my order tomorrow. If I may...2 follow-up questions. My cabinetmaker came today and said he could easily do either the 46" or 58" ventilator. 1) Since the difference between the 46" and 58" is only a little over $100, would there be any reason not to go with the 58", just to gain the additional capture and possibly cut down on noise? 2) Your advice re: depth is duly noted. The Wolf 36" is 27" deep. The Best by Broan ventilator is 22.5" deep. Is this a sufficient depth? I asked him if he could mount it "forward", meaning out a bit towards the front of the hood, so it catches the smoke from the front burners. He said no problem. I guess my alternative would be to look in to a custom ventilator, one that is a few inches deeper...but I don't know if this is necessary (if the standard 22.5" depth is sufficient). Cannot thank you enough!! This has been so much easier with the help of so many kind GWers....See MoreLowest Mantel Height,How to get?
Comments (2)I thought it was the other way around. Rather than the clearances being much larger for the inserts, I thought the clearance requirements were much larger for the old style masonry fireplaces. We are also remodeling and want a low height. There are numerous inserts (in our case, we are installing a gas insert but still a metal insert) that are in the range of 24 or 25 inches high. If we place these at floor level which is what we plan to do since the floor of the existing firebox is same level as the floor of the room, then I'm hoping that we can add at most 8 inches of tile above the insert which puts the top of the fireplace at 33 inches. We are not going to use a mantle but instead use a fireplace canopy or fireplace hood (3 to 6 inch type of strip of metal) which I hope we can install at the seam of the insert where it meets the tile surround. This means the TV we plan to install over this fireplace will have its bottom length possibly as low as 33 inches above the floor. We have a fireplace guy coming on Wednesday (5 days from now) and should know more then. I do know that if we were going to leave the fireplace as it was as a wood burning fireplace (without an insert), we would need at least 12 inches of tile above the firebox top edge before installing a mantle (or in our case now, a TV). Crossing my fingers......See MoreConverting a Wood range hood cover to a cabinet
Comments (2)Hi andlsmom, I am sorry i don't have a good suggestion for you, but I just wanted to respond to your post and welcome you. I am a new poster also, but long time reader which I understand made us called "lurkers". Too funny! One thing I did learn from the awesome people here on GW is that I think your range hood should be a little bigger than your range or cooktop surface, but maybe you have a reason for not needing it that big or having much cfm's? What type range or cooktop do you have? Hopefully someone here can link a thread explaining this or show pictures of where the mantle surround is bigger and you have a smaller hood tucked underneath. I know I've read it discussed before. Did you try a search? Maybe you fit sheet metal or something to take up the surrounding space? I could ask my GC husband but he will just roll his eyes at me! I am constantly bugging him with construction questions. Yes I will actually say, "are you supposed to do it that way cuz on GW it said......" He puts up with me, but I know inside he is saying, I have been a contractor for 30+ years I think I can do my job! Hello! :)...See Morewritersblock (9b/10a)
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