I realize I'm several years late to this posting, but I think I have a VERY GOOD formula for boxed cushions. Please bear in mind though, I've only used this formula with indoor/outdoor fabric like Sunbrella and Crypton that has little to no give. Okay, so If I had a 24" x 24" piece of foam 3" thick, I would cut my top and bottom plates 24" x 24" (exact width and length of foam). Where I would allow for zipper plaques and seam allowances is in the BOXING (the strip that goes around the cushion). Since my foam is 3" thick, I would cut my boxing strips 4" wide; that gives you a 1/2" seam allowance for the entire cushion. Also, if you find with your fabric that it's still too loose, or too tight, (even though it's a pain) it's much easier just to take off the boxing and either cut it down or a cut a larger strip. Always doing your adjustments in the boxing REALLY saves fabric (and most of the outdoor stuff is "through the roof" expensive as it is). Adding an inch to the boxing always makes the top of my cushions look taught, flat, and plump.

First-- you can buy extra hook carriers so you are not limited to the number that come with the rods, though you probably won't need them. Second--For full drapes you will need 3x the width of the window or the width you want the finished drapes to be if you make them wider than the window. If you make five finger pleats you may need more. You will need the length you want the finished drapes to be plus an extra header width and a good sized hem. If they are full length drapes I usually put a 4 or 5 inch hem, but it depends on your material. Don't go too small or they look cheap. To make pinch pleats. You need header tape. Remove the selvedge edges from the sides. Put the header tape on the top end 1 1/2 inch in from the edge--stop 1 1/2 inch from the other edge and cut the tape. Fold the material down over the tape 1/2 inch and sew. Make a 1 inch hem on the sides. Now fold the tape down so the tape is enclosed in the material and pin. Now comes the measuring. I prefer a 3 finger pleat. If I want extra fullness I make the pleats closer together. You need 1 inch for each finger--a 3 finger pleat requires 3 inches. Measure 1 1/2 inches from the edge and make a mark. You can use chalk, sewing pencil or even a soft lead pencil. You don't need a big mark , just something you can see to mark where the pleat pocket is. For a 3 finger pleat with 2 inches between pleats---Measure the curtain across the top. Take off 6 inches--for ends and pleat at the end. Divide the remainder by 5 and see how it works out. You may have to increase or decrease the end measurement or make it 2 1/2 inches between pleats.now measure 3 inches and make a mark. Now mark the distance between the pleats 2, then 3 for pleat repeat across the top. Sew your pleat loops from top to bottom of thr tape so you have one big pleat. Now pleat the loop and finger press into 3-- 1/2 inch pleats and stitch across the bottom of the pleats at the bottom of the tape. If you want to make it easier then buy pleater tape that has strings you pull to pleat them. This makes very nice pleats all across the drape. The tighter you pull the strings the fuller the pleats. You sew it on flat and then pull the strings and tie them off. I suggest you get hooks that go the full length of the tape in both cases. Little hooks tend to make the tape fall forward on top and if you put them higher the rod shows. I also suggest that you look at rods that have wooden rings on top and clip on to the drapes. They are as easy as a shower curtain to open and close. The link below is very good and it will give you a lot of info about making drapes Here is a link that might be useful: tutorial on drapes

After you cut them in half, you need to take loose all of the stitching on the side where you plan to sew them together - the hems and the rod pockets. Invest in a good seam ripper ($3-4). After you sew them together, just press and restitch the rod pocket.

Coffee would be nice. We could talk about fixing up trailers because I actually managed to forget yesterday that we bought a little SWMH in Florida for vacations last winter. Built in 1962 but decorated a la 1970s Minnesota, and the Herculon upholstery's all in great condition. Good, because there's no money right now to do anything. Donating 40 years of the former owners' vacationer-fun flea market finds to Good Will did give it a whole new look, tho. :) Cadence, is privacy for the MBRM a big consideration? We're empty-nesters and were and are almost the only ones to walk down to the back. But maybe people use your back door a lot? You do only see the side table from the front unless you walk down there, so I was actually going to suggest centering it in the doorway as part of creating a view into the room. Also, would you be at all interested in leaving the MBRM window curtains open in the daytime--for free but powerful decoration? People are always attracted to light, and that and designing the side table wall for a view would make the hall inviting because its termination is inviting. For privacy behind the glass, tho, how about a nice drape to pull over? The hall in our extra-tiny trailer isn't so long, but walls here, as well as everywhere else, are cheap fake-groove paneling covered with genuine wood veneer in an attractive dark red-honey grain. That is to say, dark, but it's not dreary because the MBRM at the end has windows on 3 sides. Actually nobody notices the hall much at all--I think--because attention goes directly to the glimpse of the bright, sunny room at the end. Whatever. I do love the idea of opening up the office. A friend had actually suggested we do that for our 2nd "bedroom" in the Florida place since it's way too small and dark for us to ever want to be in there as is, but we're holding off now as it will give privacy for one visitor, whoever is least prone to claustrophobia. I agree your floor does look nice as is and happily has that widening diagonal grid. No accident, no doubt. Ours has dark moss green plush carpet, also in unfortunately and amazingly good condition. We have to look out the windows to confirm we're still in subtropical coastal Florida, not slipped in a space warp to Middle America 1975.