I'm not a Zen cook at all, but then my life is not very Zen either. My kitchen tends to be messy and chaotic, and I don't enjoy cooking, just do it becuase I enjoy eating good tasting, healthy food. I have more than a few failures which discourages me and then I get in a bad mood. Things sometimes come together in my kitchen and I can turn out something really yummy, but that is more a random act of grace than Zen. Keep at it long enough something good is bound to happen, or to be Zen about it, "Before enlightenment, chop wood, carry water. After enlightenment, chop wood, carry water." However, I was actually influenced a bit by a Zen monk in my early days as a cook. If you're interested in this kind of thing, check out the classic "Tassajara Bread Book" by Edward Espe Brown. It is the anthitheses of "Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day" lol! I guess there is also another cookbook with main dishes, and I think both are out of print. I also saw a video made about him, he cooks for a Zen monastary in CA. The video was OK, nothing spectacular. But then that's Zen too, lol! "If you understand, things are just as they are. If you do not understand, things are just as they are." A favorite Zen saying of mine. I linked to the video below. Here is a link that might be useful: How to Cook Your Life

How urgent is your need to buy a house? Could you move into a rental while you look for something that meets your needs? There is a serious misapprehension about old houses that many people get stuck on. It's not an either/or proposition to live in an old house Tthere is no need not to have modern conveniences if you want them: this means electricity, running water, central heat, indoor plumbing, etc. You can often re-designate rooms to more modern uses; i.e. small rooms adjacent to bedrooms can become baths and former sitting rooms can become kitchens, for example. In a general way none of this is harmful to old houses, because it is reversible. However, what really is unfortunate about many remodeling projects, though, is the relentless desire to turn buildings that were orginally made up of distinct rooms into the vast, trendy, spaces that define the modern open plan house. You can see this playing out in the large room in the pictures with the fireplace and the tuructural members exposed by the gaping loss of the partition wall and the four windows in the ell which is a clear - and glaring - example. On one hand you have the lovely fireplace, with its (likely orginal) fireplace surround with delicate Federal-edging into Greek Revival period detailing. But by tearing out the wall and exposing the wooden structural pieces you have a jarring style collision. Exposed (and now empty) mortice pockets and rough hand hewn beams while they look old-timey to our eyes were not intended to be seen, ever. Even on very early houses, exposed structural beams (like summer beams or gunstock posts) often had careful dressing, and even carefully made beaded molding profiles. And then there's the bank of windows in the ell. That room is likely a much later addition (late 19th, early 20 or even later) and may even have had that bank of windows when it was orginally erected. But the look of an array of windows like that is not a match with the rest of the now-combined room. And keep this in mind: houses weren't "thick" as they are now in an era where day time light was mainly provided by windows. So while there were often rooms extended backwards in wings, the massing was often only one room wide, or just two rooms wide on either side of a stair hall. You don't have to choose against modern functions, but you ought to think twice about any impulse to turn an old house into a facsimile of a modern house that is vaguely styled to look like old houses. In other words, you need to understand that old houses, especially really old houses like this one, were always divided into smaller, distinct spaces. If you want a modern, open-plan house, then buy a modern house and decorate it with details that harken back to former styles. As for how you train your eye: well, books like the McAlesters' is good for classifying housing periods. The Midwest has its own set of building traditions, but keep in mind that early settlers to there were likely immigrants from NE and the Mid-Atlantic regions who brought their building traditions with them. At first, of course, they lived in settlement-period houses which were often small and primitive, but as soon as practical they built themselves better housing, an example of that style is this house. It may pay to study housing styles of NE and the Mid-Atlantic regions. Do you have access to a public library? I'd start there by borrowing - and sending via inter library loan- as many of the glossy- picture books showing houses from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Look at the size of the rooms, and study any floor plans. If you want to do this I could offer sme suggestions for titles that are especially useful. Another (though not with many pictures) excellent resource which every old house owner, including people who are considering buying an old building, should be familar with is the set of Preservation Briefs from the National Park Service. This series of essays is about caring for old buildings, from those of great historical significance (Presidential birthplaces, for example) to just ordinary old houses that are have become extraordinary simply by their survival. (I'll attach a link, below to this series. It will give you a working understanding of the issues surrounding older buildings which will put you light-years ahead of many old house buyers.) You do not have to live without modern conveniences; you do not have to spend endless amounts of money on a money pit; you do not have to live in an unaltered museum piece. But you really should think twice about buying an old house and promptly obliterating those distinctive characteristics that make it a cohesive example of an older building. If you want a modern-style open-plan design then, please don't choose one of the remaining old plan houses to impose this on. Now, the house example you have linked to has had a good deal of this destructive choice applied to it, already,so in some ways it may be a lost cause. But if you buy it supposing it to be an example that has not been enormously altered, you may be disappointed when you encounter its reality. As a starting point, and to begin to learn the vocabularly of old houses, start with reading the Preservation Briefs linked below. There is even one on inspecting old houses and inventoring their conditions, which will help you at the home-inspection stage. This house still has a good deal of "character", but has lost a lot of it in its updating. You shouldn't kid your self about that fact. Some of that character may be easily replaced (you could re-erect the partition wall in the fireplace-room, for an example. Or perhaps even compromise in some way to conceal the the newly-exposed structural pieces, and retain the larger room. But things like getting rid of the grossly out-of-proportion eyebrow windows make take a significant amount of money to un-do. (Well, not hundreds of thousands, but maybe up to 5-10 grand to make that change back. And as I alluded to above the size of those windows mave have been driven by modern fire-codes requiring certain amounts of square feet of escape windows in bedrooms. So changing back might require interior changes as well to allow smaller windows to be installed, boosting the tab.) See if your local historical society has any pictures of this house, or closely similar ones to see what has been changed. There is one other thing I want to point out: Old houses reuire an above-average amount money or time, and sometimes both, from their owners. Their owners get a great sense of personal delight and satisfaction from them. But you can't realistically expect to reap those benefits without also expecting to pay those costs. Perhaps if you have no time, and don't want to make up for that lack of time by investing more money in having someone else do things for you, this is not the right time in your life to own and old house. There is no shame in that. Post back if you want a list of books to help you train your eye to see what's old, and what's just styled to look old. Liriodenron Here is a link that might be useful: Preservation Briefs, Technical Bulletins on caring for old houses

So glad to see you're under contract TR, hopefully closing will go smoothly and you'll have the relief that not only did the house sell, but to someone so appreciative of it. When we were looking for a house and viewed the one we purchased, the original owners were here, an elderly couple who bought it when the subdivision was just built. It was '09 and a buyer's market mostly (Texas didn't have the huge highs and lows other regions did but still, this was a nice house that had been on the market for 6 months or so). They were selling to move into assisted care living as the elderly gentlemen had several medical problems, they showed us around the place, introduced us to 'Christine' the water fountain out back that "was staying", my hub liked them as much as the house, we made an offer very close to asking and they accepted. We talked on the phone several times, came over twice, for inspection and then to hash out when they were moving (they didn't want to leave before closing), other details of the house they wanted us to know, everything very friendly. The Mrs. had given me her e-mail address so we could stay in touch, I did sent her an email after we'd gotten moved in, no reply, I called her cell, no call back. Then problems with the house started occurring (rapidly), the sanitary line needed replacing, doors started sticking and the foundation needed levelling, the whole back fence line that looked perfectly fine until you put your hand on it and it bent backwards needed replacing, the first two years here were an endless series of expensive things that had to be done. We bought it as a forever house and it likely will be, we've sunk so much money into it it probably has to be. lol I'm getting ready to paint my computer room a rosy coral, nothing bad has happened in maybe a year so I feel like celebrating. :)

With large format tile and the modified thinset, there was a pretty good chance that the thinset had not created a strong enough bond where the Kerdi would be damaged when the tile was removed. Without a doubt, float out the wall prior to continuing. A good foundation will improve your chances of success. I've used Versabond quite a bit over Kerdi, but I don't use it with large format tile because the tiles are so large. Modified thinsets need air exposure to completely dry and develop a complete bond. Thinset sandwiched between a large format tile and Kerdi will not see much air, especially the thinset away from the perimeter of the tile. If you're using Versabond, I'm guessing you bought it at Home Depot? Custom's unmodified thinset is Customblend. I'm not a big fan of Customblend right out of the bag, but if you have to use it, I'd recommend picking up a bag of portland cement and adding a margin trowel or two of portland cement to each batch of Customblend thinset that you mix up to fortify it a bit. Definitely change to a larger notched trowel to apply thinset to the wall, and definitely burn in and back butter the tile prior to setting it. It will help immensely with coverage and adhesion. The gap under the bottom row of tile? It depends on how inconsistent the floor/wall junction is as you go around the room. If it's wonky, with the floor already tiled? I'll toss out rough numbers for this example: Let's say your tiles are 16" square and you had a 3/8" gap in some spots between the bottom of the wall tile and the top of the floor tile, and in other spots they touched. Your best bet may be to strike a level line across the four shower walls about 15-5/8" above the highest spot on the perimeter of the floor. With a 3/8" variance in elevation around the perimeter of the floor, that line will be 16" above the lowest spot on the perimeter of the floor. You then scribe the bottom edge of each tile so it conforms to the floor tile, so when the tile is set in place the top edge of the tile will be on the line you drew on the walls. Some tiles may fit without having to be cut at all. Others may have up to 3/8" taken off their bottoms. Others may vary, you'll have to trim a bit here, a bit more there, to follow the contour of the pebble floor tile. A pain? For sure. But that'll solve the uneveness of the wall-floor intersection, and with the top edge of your bottom course of wall tile now being spot on perfect level around the entire shower, you've created the proper foundation upon which to tile the upper walls. An overall generic lesson? First thing I do in any shower is fix the framing. With square and plumb framing I get square, plumb, and flat backer board and plumb and square wall corners. With good backer board I get a good tile installation. Fight the framing at the start and that's the only battle you'll have to fight. Everything else will follow smoothly. Good luck!