What is appropriate in a 1910 Victorian?
chinchette
16 years ago
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16 years agobmorepanic
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Appropriate Flooring for 1900s Folk Victorian kitchen
Comments (6)150-160 sq ft You DEFINITELY need to get that lasagna floor stack out of there. And, put serious effort into make the floor under the cosmetic layer as clean and well-done as possible. It's your only chance at preventing some issues. If you have to paint the subfloor with a porch paint floor rug because your whole budget went to getting a sound, level floor, that's OK. You can always add the cosmetics layer, but removing cabinets to level a floor is a PITA, and expensive. Tear it out down to the subfloor. Patch any holes. Check for level - the unevenness is possible due to the layers falling apart. There are two kinds of "not level: Flat surface, but slanting to one side or another ... in an old house this is almost normal. You can compensate by shimming the cabinets unless it's a couple inches out of whack. Not flat, but humped, with hills and valleys across the floor. This makes it hard to do a good job on the sheets of sub-floor ... If it's more than 1/2 inch or so, you need to remove the old flooring down to the joists and shim them level and replace the subfloor with 3/4 sheet OSB sheathing. (if you get to the old bottom level and see this, post for help!) If you have to, use a FLOOR levelling compound (levelling, not patching!). Avoid the cement-based ones, they crumble. Find one that stays FLEXIBLE. This stuff: http://www.truevalue.com/product/Paint-Supplies/Surface-Prep-Cleaning/Anchors-Levelers/DAP-Gallon-Ready-To-Use-Flexible-Floor-Leveler/pc/13/c/198/sc/1723/17543.uts Over the subfloor put standard 1/2" or 3/4" underlayment sheets, nailed or screwed according to the manufacturer's directions. Probably OSB strandboard, ... but should specify it's for floors. A pneumatic nailer would be a good investment here. This kind of stuff: http://www.homedepot.com/p/7-16-in-x-48-in-x-8ft-Oriented-Strand-Board-386081/202106230 TIP ... Make sure it's interlocking "brick" pattern when you lay it down, with the seams between one piece and another not aligning so you don't have weak corners with 4 pieces. Take your time planning the layout Don't use teensy pieces cobbled together along the edges to avoid buying another sheet - that is false economy and will bite you in the butt later. And mark the joists and TRY to have the seams along a joist. If the walls aren't square, cut the underlayment to lay snug along the walls. BTW, this is good practice for owning an old house - making things fit unsquare spots. TIP: If you don't run the flooring under the cabinets, seal the underlayment with a couple of coats of varnish under where the cabinets will go ... it keeps it from soaking up musty odors. The cosmetic layer: When the floor is levelled and ready for the cosmetics layer, check how much is left in your budget. :) Because you can't match the rest of the house, go "different" ... a darker wood, a different material. Kitchen floors then were often "linoleum" or other synthetic sheet goods, as well as stone, quarry tile or wood, so something as simple as a dark grey/light grey checkerboard vinyl square tile would be OK. Set diagonally? Or use colored squares - they come in an astounding array. You might find a sheet vinyl in a reasonably "period" pattern of slate Also, check commercial sheet flooring...See Moretile design for 1910s/1920s inspired bathroom
Comments (31)I've seen Pratt and Larson making a custom order from a customer's piece of vintage trim (I'm sure it hardly cost a thing...). So if you can dream it, and pay for it, I'm sure they can create it for you. Their standard trim is likely worth a look. [They'll also do custom colors, but have a pretty significant range as it is!] Lots of great points, sources, and tips upthread. I think for me the #1 thing that makes me question "old? new?" is tile with color variation. Most people don't/can't spend the money for handmade, and even in white/cream the gradations in color are so pretty. You may have already considered this but before I went to all the trouble of sourcing tiles I'd definitely have rough estimates from your tile artisan. Your dream bath may be 20K in tile + (tile) labor cost -- which may be fine, or may mean a revamp. BTW, I've used the Americh Bow double apron in a project. Downside (purist/preference), not cast iron. Upside, a true soaker depth (most of the corner salvage tubs in my area are much more shallow). ps One of my favorite mansions is this 1914 one -- and check out the tile work: pretty low-key!...See MoreUpdated circa 1910 home
Comments (12)Since the family room addition was done later and in a completely different style to the rest of the house, I would not hesitate to bring the aesthetics more in line with the vintage and architecture of the rest of the house. I'd try to match the floor, trim and wall finish throughout the house (hopefully some of it is still original...). A 1910 house probably has lath and plaster walls, but drywall is fine for the addition. Don't go farmhouse on the floors or walls--trends change a lot faster than you will want to replace those things. Choose something period appropriate instead. Keep the modern farmhouse choices to furnishings and paint choices....See MoreHow to choose Cornice/Scotia/Coving to complement 1910s house moulding
Comments (8)Like already mentioned have someone replicate the pieces that are missing, you and your house will be happier with the end result when finished. You will never really find something exactly like it is and putting up an almost, but not quite right will give you more issues. Good luck! Looks like a lovely home....See Morealwaysfixin
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