Upper Cabinets and Corners
ktink
13 years ago
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lawjedi
13 years agorhome410
13 years agoRelated Discussions
Puck Under Cabinet Lights?
Comments (1)We got the strip LED lights and it was under 1000 for about 18 feet on upper cabs and two glass cabs on top- this included the labor. My GC found a great sale and jumped on it. I also installed AFTER the cabs were in and it was a more complicated install than you are facing. I don't know much about the puck lights but do know anything but LED lights do get hot....See MoreDoes anyone have soft close hinges on their upper corner cabinet?
Comments (6)We installed the dampers after the fact on all our doors except the corner sink cabinet. The dampers we bought didn't work on it. When I looked at the door I realized that I think it's b/c the corner sink cabinet has a partial overlay door (to allow it to open fully) and all the other doors (base & upper) are full overlay. To use the dampers on partial overlay, spacers are needed. We haven't gotten around to ordering another damper + spacers. If you have a diagonal door for the corner lazy susan, then you may have the same situation. We did use the damper + the extra one I ordered in the PR, so no waste. Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: I need some soft close dampers for my cabinet doors...See MoreKitchen layout help please! Thank you!
Comments (5)Thank you! Do I understand the main idea/motivation behind these changes correctly as: - move fridge to the other side of sink so that there is a better flow Fridge -> Sink -> Counter -> Range (I really like that!) - create larger continuous prep space between sink and range - move fridge closer to the dining area so people can grab drinks without going through kitchen - hide microwave from direct line of sight at the end of cabinet run My one concern is that I loose "Pots & Pans" 36" deep double drawer in this configuration. This is one thing that we really wanted. Lazy Susan does not work well for us as Pots & Pans solution... And I am also concerned that massive 36" deep fridge will create visual wall from the the patio/window/table to the kitchen. I would be less concerned if it was counter-depth fridge... So I'm wondering if there is a configuration that will achieve the above benefits but leave the massive fridge in the current place? Then it is accessible from the other side of the island (for grab-and-go) and from the kitchen, but does not dominate transition from kitchen to patio/window/table... Thank you again!...See MoreU-Shape Kitchen Design Problems = Range + Hood + Windows + Cabinets
Comments (3)In the meantime.... First, I'd ditch the upper cabinets on the range wall and have the cabinets on the sink wall and refrigerator wall die into the range wall. That will (1) eliminate corner storage -- often wasted space, (2) open up the range wall more, and (3) allow you to move the windows to allow for windows + breathing space on either side of the rangehood. Second, I'd keep the upper cabinets on the both sides of the sink wall's window....but, I'd also probably increase the size of the window. Third, I'd get a more effective and functional rangehood. The one you're showing may look nice, but it isn't very functional. I'm assuming you cook and this is not just a show kitchen -- correct? You need a cavity/cup to corral the FOGSS (fumes, odors, grease, steam, smoke, etc.) for effective venting. A flat one doesn't allow for that. It becomes especially important when your rangehood is not flanked by upper cabinets and when it's flanked by windows. These two reasons are also major reasons why you should stick with your original plan for a rangehood at least 6" wider than your range. And no, don't count on the windows acting as ventilation over your rangehood. You need something above the cooking surface, not to the sides. FOGSS rises and expands, but rises more than expands. Also, if that range is gas, you may have issues with air from the windows interfering with the burner flames. The FOGSS expansion is why you need a wider rangehood -- to capture the FOGSS and allow the fan to vent the FOGSS outside. If you had upper cabinets flanking and up against the rangehood, you might be able to get away with a rangehood with a width = the width of the range. Unless...do you plan to grill or do high-heat cooking (e.g., stir-fry, frying in general, or even a lot of browning of meat)? If so, stick with the 6" wider rangehood. Other comments: Your kitchen really isn't wide enough for truly functional island -- you need about 13" more space to have sufficient aisles to allow you to be able to move around in the Kitchen with the island in the middle. The bare minimum needed: . 25.5"D Sink counters + 45"W aisle + 27"D island + 42"W aisle + 30"D refrigerator/freezer = 169.5" (5.5" more than what you have) (the 45" aisle is so you can have the DW open and still slip b/w it and the island.) 42" aisles are the minimum recommended for a one-person kitchen; 48" for two or more people. . Remember, though, that 48" wide aisles on all sides are better if you plan on having more than one person working in the Kitchen at the same time (two or more cooking or prepping or cleaning up or getting a snack, etc.) So, 169.5" + 3" + 6" = 178.5" (14.5" more than what you have) If you reduce the aisle b/w the refrigerator & island to 45", then 178.5" - 3" = 175.5" (12.5" more than you have) <== this is the bare minimum I recommend . Also, 27" is really a bit shallow for a working island, it's better at 30"D, with 36"D even better. Adding another 3" to the depth of the island: 178.5" + 3" = 181.5" (17.5" more) <== this is what I would prefer overall . Do you need to have cabinets/counters on both sides of the Kitchen? To be honest, right now those counters b/w the refrigerator and range are wasted space since they're not in a good place for a work zone. Would you be willing to switch the sink and range walls and eliminate the cabinets/counters on the left wall? If so, you could have an island with seating: . 30"D refrigerator/freezer + 48"W aisle b/w perimeter and island + 42"D island + 44"W aisle behind the seats = 164" ... exactly what you have right now! (13'8" = 164") I would KEEP the prep sink to make the island functional instead of just a barrier b/w primary work zones. E.g., right now, the island is a major "barrier island" b/w the refrigerator and the perimeter sink -- which will be your only sink if you eliminate the prep sink in the island. The island prep sink is the main thing that allows this Kitchen to be functional. If you take it out, you will have a very unpleasant place to work. Refrigerator & Freezer: Are these going to be true built-in appliances? Not counter-depth (CD) or standard-depth (SD), I mean built-in? I'm asking b/c if they are not going to be true built-in and, instead, are going to be counter-depth, then keep in mind that the majority of counter-depth refrigerators and freezers are actually 30" or more deep when you count the doors & handles. "Counter-depth" only refers to the refrigerator (or freezer) carcass -- the box only. The doors & handles add additional depth. The reason they're deeper is that the doors & handles of CD (and SD) refrigerators/freezers need to stick out past the surrounding counters, cabinets, walls, etc., to allow them to open fully. Standard-depth are even deeper (usually closer to 36"D). If they are CD, then you will need to add another 3" or so to the 13" I discussed above (so, 16" more). I'd move the DW to the right of the sink to get it out of the Prep Zone b/w the range and sink. Even with a prep sink in the island allowing the island to be the primary Prep Zone, that space b/w the range and wall sink will still function as a secondary Prep Zone. (You haven't told us about yourselves, so I don't know if both you and your husband cook, if you have children you will eventually be teaching how to cook & cleanup, etc.) . Let me see what I can come up with for you....See Moresteff_1
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