The bathroom is Just off of 9'x6'. It is 107"x74". This is the best I could figure out to show the layout of the shower. Shower layout It looks a little too small for dual shower heads and that the current shape is probably the best. But I might consider a "handshower" on the side wall to give a little more functionality and a pseudo dual shower since everyone seems to be big fans of the hand shower. Hand shower Also, I have 36" between the outside of the shower and the wall where the toilet sits. I could steal 6" from that and move the toilet over, but I don't think I want to undergo the cost of moving the toilet. I will already pick up 3-4 inches of room by getting rid of the glass blocks and going with the framless walls.

I would want to put it on the alternative location, especially if anyone using it will be tall (5'10" or more). If that's the case, you'll need to angle the shower head up more and will need more space. But the problem (a major one) with using the alternate wall is that you cannot reach the valves to turn on the shower without getting wet (which you could do if you use the stairway wall). Complicating matters more, I would have the shower door hinged the other way. I went through the same sort of decision (hinged left or right) with my remodel, and the glass company insisted that I do it the way I've described, contrary to what I thought I wanted. They claimed that I would feel like I was reaching across my body to hinge it along the knee wall and that the double hinge wouldn't work (meaning that I couldn't open the door toward the inside of the shower to get out of the shower because it would strike the shower head. And on top of all of that, it was more expensive to have the hinges on the knee wall side because of the hinge and support hardware you need, and often less structurally sound (they said). If they had wanted me to spend more money, they wouldn't have talked me out of my decision. Now, I couldn't be happier. I've posted my pictures below to show you how the door works in my application (60" x 36" shower), and how yours would look with the controls on the stairway wall and the door hinges on the stairway wall.

YES, that's it! The door should be frameless and swing both ways. We enter/exit by swinging the door out into the room. Our shower came set up like this and the only changes we are making during the remodel is to add a long adjustable bar to the handheld. The bar will be a Jaclo and it is a combination slide bar and grab bar. We are also adding a 12" grab bar in the area between the bench and the hinge for shower door. This way someone sitting at the bench will have 2 grab bars they can use to pull themselves up. All things that would have been so so usefull when DH had knee and achilles surgeries. We are doing a 36" frameless glass door. Old opening was narrower. Shower used to have only one 6" can light. We changed it to 2 x 4" LED can lights. All light will be on dimmers. Our sinks and toilet are also in the same place as option#10. Our bath is a bit larger to the west/left side with room for a freestanding soaking tub. We are 5 months into the remodel, but the quartz fabricators are here right now installing counter, bench and shower door jamb/threshold, so other parts can now be finished and we might actually have a finised bathroom in 2 weeks.

Rainhead. The term "rainhead" has sort of been corrupted over the years. You really need to feel the output yourself and figure out what type you prefer. In my own shower I wanted a traditional rain head. Simple water droplets, so to speak. Mine is a 12" head, and I do consider that to be the smallest size for a decent rain shower, and without a doubt, that is my personal opinion. You want the head away from the wall, so if you have a large rainhead, consider a bracketed or support arm of some sort, the added support can come from the wall or from the ceiling. Something along the lines of this: For your hand shower, have a hose long enough so you can spray down the corners of your shower. Body sprays. The same. Good showrooms have spray displays where you can feel the spray of water. Once upon a time I was intrigued by body sprays, Then I tried them and thought them to be the silliest thing ever. Some folk put in two heads, stacked vertically, one one wall. It's a little more common to want four body heads. Usually on two opposing walls, stacked vertically. You don't want them spraying towards the door. Usually chest and waist height, so figure that out when plumbing. You will have to figure out flow and hot water supply issues, from your water heater to the shower drain. Shower supply valves allow a certain amount of "pass through". You need to make sure each valve can actually supply the water needed to feed the heads that you want it to supply, or you could end up with insufficient flow. With body sprays, I recommend a "loop" supply to feed them, so the last head has pretty much the same flow as the first head. For your shower drain, it needs to be sized to the number of heads you have in the shower. Doesn't matter if only a few of them can or will be on at one time. It's a simple counting of the shower heads. A 2" drain can accomodate a shower with up to three heads. With four or more heads, plan on two 2" drains or a single 3" drain. If your plumber says you don't need to upsize to a 3" drain with four or more heads, he's not complying with code. If you want a "car wash" shower with five or six heads going at once? Your half inch pipe may not be adequate. Sure, with adequate feed pressure behind it it might be able to feed all those heads. But high water velocities through the tubing can actually erode copper from the tubing, potentially resulting in leaks. It's not just a matter of the 1/2" tubing being able to supply the needed water volume. You can crank up the water pressure and get volume. But cranking up the pressure to get the volume increases the water's velocity through the tubing, and again, too high of a "feet per minute" flow through the tubing can actually erode the tubing away. So do be wary if your "contractor" tries to soft talk away all of your concerns. Half-inch supply tubing can work. But it should work because your shower was designed to work with 1/2" tubing, not because, as your contractor told you, "everybody else is doing it". You can help yourself by drawing out a diagram of your shower. Doesn't have to be fancy. Each body spray and each shower head will have a GPM rating. Same with each valve. Make sure the valves and/or diverters that feed those heads can pass through the needed volume of water. Very basic numbers here, but 1/2" can comfortably flow about 5gpm. For hot and cold, that's 10gpm combined. For a comfortable temp out of the shower valve, that gets derated to about 7.5gpm of shower-temperature water. If your body sprays are 1.8GPM, four sprays is 7.2gpm for the body spray set only. You can figure different GPM combinations. Then figure that GPM out of your water heater to see how long your heater can maintain shower temperature. Oh lord. I need coffee...good luck! Edit: I never proof read this after posting it. Egads. Edited to clean up the weird formatting too. This post was edited by mongoct on Tue, Oct 21, 14 at 17:47