Closet Systems - Review Yours Please
SadieV
11 years ago
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annie1971
11 years agolast modified: 7 years agobeaniebakes
11 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
Please review my plan....truely apprecite all your help
Comments (11)You've squeezed a lot into a relatively small space! I can't read the dimensions so some of these may not be issues at all... 1) A one-car garage is pretty unusual in this day-and-age for a 2000+ sq foot home. If gas prices keep going up tho, we all may be lucky if we can afford to keep a single car so maybe that will be all you'll need! Do make sure the garage is actually big enough to park a car AND open the doors on both sides without hitting the walls. If you can't get in and out of the car, the garage will just become a big closet/junk space and you'll park your car outside. 2) Is that X in the office bathroom meant to represent a shower or something else? If a shower, I don't think it is big enough. Also, if that is a shower, is it your plan that the office should be able to double as a guest room? If not, do you really need a second powder room since there is one right around the corner in the hallway? 3) Is the closet off the dining room meant to be a pantry? If you don't have a basement, why not use the space under the end of the upper portion of stairway as your pantry and give that closet space to the office? 4) It is just furniture placement but, unless you plan to put a fireplace on the exterior wall of the Living room (between the two windows) I'd plan on turning the L-shaped sofa by 90 degrees and putting it against the exterior wall. That would give you better traffic flow as people could get from front door to kitchen without walking right thru the middle of the living room conversation area. 5) You need a wall (or at least a halfwall) behind the cooktop to separate it from the living area. It just isn't safe the way you have it sketched. Too easy for a pot of boiling water to get pushed off the back of the cooktop. If you want an "open feel", may I recommend at least a half wall there? If it were me tho, I'd put a full wall just about where the back of the sofa is to make the kitchen larger and give it more cabinet space, maybe move the stove to the outer wall and the fridge to the wall next to the living area. 6) What size do you intend to make the bay windows downstairs? Will the window sill be higher than the backs of the chairs you're planning to place there? Or, will the chair backs block the lower portion of the windows? 7) Consider using a pocket door for the hallway powderroom so that you don't run the risk of someone getting bashed by the bathroom door being opened. And consider using a tiny corner-mount sink like the one shown in the link below. 8) With the door from garage to house opening into a narrow hallway, you'll want to be sure to use a door that has a window in it so that you can see if someone is coming down the hall before you open that door. 9) Upstairs, instead of a "closet" in the hall bathroom, I'd suggest a small built-in linen cupboard positioned between the two sinks. The two sinks are really too close together to be comfortable for two people to use at once so dividing them with a cupboard would make both more comfortable. Plus, that would get rid of the door conflict that you have between the bathroom door and that closet door. 10) I'm assuming that the closet for bedroom 1 is a standard depth for a reach in closet (24" depth inside). If so that means the closet for bedroom 2 is extra deep. But, it isn't deep enough to be a walk-in closet so the extra depth is just wasted AND makes it harder to reach clothing from the door. Make that closet a standard depth and give the extra space to the laundry room. 11) Speaking of the laundry room. I hate yours. The laundry room is one of the most used spaces in a house. A large, well-appointed laundry room makes that chore so much easier that, as small and cramped as you've made the space, I'd bet big money that you're a guy and your wife does all the laundry so that you never really have to give it a thought! At a minimum, a well-appointed laundry needs, storage space for laundry supplies, space to sort dirty clothing, space to fold clean-clothing, a sink for washing out hand washables plus somewhere to hang them up, a space where one can lay sweaters and other woolens out to dry, a hanging rod for hanging up those no-ironing needed shirts AS they come out of the dryer (other wise they wind up needing to be ironed) and, of course, room for an ironing board and enough room to use it! It's nice to also have room for one's sewing machine and a place to stash clothing that needs mending. You've just put in space for the washer and dryer - which means all the rest of the laundry chores have to be done elsewhere. Yes, one CAN do laundry that way but... UGH! 12) Only half that laundry room closet you've designed is going to be at all useable useable. You can't reach anything in the back half unless you keep the front half empty so you can walk thru it. Forget the closet! Instead, incorporate the closet space into the laundry room and put kitchen-style cabinetry along the wall. That will make the laundry room look and feel more spacious and give whoever does the laundry a countertop to sort and fold clothing on. You could even put a sink in so thereis a place to wash the handwashables! Plus, if you use 15" deep upper cabinets, and full-size lower cabinets, you'll wind up with more useable storage space than you would get with the closet anyway. The extra space gained from reducing the depth of the closet to bedroom 3 should give you just enough room to fit a short hanging rod on the wall behind the laundry room door. Trust me, your wife (or whoever takes care of the laundry in your home) will LOVE you for the changes. 13) What are the dimensions of your master closet. Remember that hanging clothing takes up about 24". If you want to hang clothes along two parallel walls, the total wall-to-wall width needs to be at least 6'6" and that only gives you a 32" aisle down the middle. 7'0" width is better. 13) Other than the bed, what furniture do you plan to have in the master bedroom? Where do you intend to place it? I love all the windows but I just don't see where you can place a dresser or chest-of-drawers without having it be blocking a window. And, the path from bathroom to closet requires a trip around the bed. If one of you tends to get up first, that is going to make it difficult to get up, get a shower, and get clothing and get dressed without waking the other one up. 14) I'm not at all enamored with your masterbath, The tub feels squashed into that corner and having the toilet be the first thing you see when you walk thru the door is not at all "elegant"! Plus, the two sinks feel like they're too close together and I suspect those will get a whole lot more use than that garden tub stuck behind the toilet. Double vanity sinks need a minimum of 60 inches of counter space. More is better. If it were me and I had to fit my masterbath in the space you have allocated to it, I'd just leave the tub out completely in favor of a nice luxurious shower and more room for my two vanities plus tucking the toilet out of sight a little bit. But what I'd REALLY like to do is get rid of bedroom 3 and use that space for an enlarged master suite, a larger laundry room, and making the remaining two bedrooms each a bit larger. 15) Bedroom 3 is so tiny and, with the doors arranged the way they are, if you put a full-sized bed in there, there won't be any room left for any other furniture. Is bedroom 3 going to be a child's room? Or, do you plan for it to be a guest room? If the latter, does it really need a walk-in closet? And, how high on your list of priorities is a guest room anyway? If you only have guests once or twice a year, couldn't the office be made to do double duty... especially if you could fit a shower in the office bath? If you don't really NEED a separate guest room, I'd start by putting a 5X7 bath in the space between the dining room and the office (with the door opening into a small hallway between office and dining room). Then I'd get rid of the hall powderroom (the one in the office can serve). I'd turn the steps down to the garage by 90 degrees and it about where the hall bath is so that the door opens up toward the dining room. This would ensure that you have room to open your car doors in the garage. I tuck the pantry UNDER the main staircase and put the staircase support wall on the other side of the staircase. Having the staircase open on the living room side will make the living room feel larger and more elegant. Put a wall between kitchen and living room like suggested above. Then, I'd redesign the entire left side up the upstairs to incorporate most of the space from bedroom 3 into the mastersuite and use the rest of the extra space to enlarge the laundry room. Just my thoughts. Here is a link that might be useful: small, corner mount bathroom sink....See MoreWere did you get your closet systems?
Comments (4)kandkwi, In our research, my wife and I found the EasyTrack system, which seems pretty straightforward and not too expensive. I've actually seen a display of it in a home center and it looks solid. While the cherry or maple is a tad too expensive, the white seems to me to be a good price. HTH. Rob Here is a link that might be useful: easy track...See MoreEasy closets versus John John Louis Home Solid Wood Closet System
Comments (19)A few years ago, I purchased EasyClosets systems to increase the utility of closets in a 1950's-era ranch. It worked out pretty well. The systems are easy to install (the hardest part is probably finding your wall studs, followed by cutting the metal closet rods to length - or vice versa, if you're not comfortable with a hacksaw), and they provided a lot of extra hardware for putting the pieces together. One closet really fought me on the installation of the top shelf pieces, I suspect because the back wall was a bit bowed, but the other three units installed without problem. I didn't order any components with drawers, as I just don't trust cam locks and MDF to provide durable, long-lasting drawers. The biggest problem I've had was when disassembling and removing a unit to repaint the closet, a cam lock got stuck and ended up breaking a pretty large chip out of one of the shelves. It's at a bottom, back corner so with a bit of epoxy it's barely noticeable, but it's a reminder of one of the drawbacks of that type of assembly. In use, the closets have proved very durable, and they made the closets a lot more functional. My preference would be to have a similar system in solid wood for my current home; I now have walk-in closets that could use some TLC, but I would be reluctant to remove the (paint grade, pine) shelving that's currently in place to install something other than another solid wood product, and I wouldn't mind adding some drawers or cabinetry where I would want some quality joinery as opposed to screws or cam locks. If you're going for pure "bang for the buck", Rubbermaid closet kits are a lot cheaper - albeit more cumbersome to install and a lot less attractive. The EasyCloset systems proved to be a selling point when we moved; they looked pretty much as good as new, the hardware components (belt rack, tie rack) are quite solid, and while the closet systems are recognizably melamine they blended quite well with the natural oak in the house, including the closet trim....See MorePlease show me your small bedroom closets
Comments (31)You might consider the attachable or cascading hangers. Began using the Homz brand of these years ago from Target. Several manufacturers now make them, along with loop shapes alone for attaching hangers you have. They are flatter than the regular plastic hangers so take up half the rod space of those. They hook to each other vertically without crushing the fabric. Bed Bath & Beyond carries this type in 10 packs for $4, an average price. Ignore the prices at Amazon (too high in my book) but read the reviews, including one from another 1920's homeowner. Although we have a large walk-in closet now, still appreciate the degree of organization they offer, such as 5 summer-weight long sleeve shirts hanging in a line together with sleeves exposed so I can choose one easily, along with the hanging space they free up. My DH finally decided to try them & was surprised it's much easier now to locate what he's after. I put shirts right out of the dryer on these hangers & find they don't wrinkle hanging in the closet. There are also children's sized hangers like this useful for lingerie, as well as skirt hangers. Hang purses from them, too, stacking the hangers & enclosing the whole thing in a clear zippered dress bag. Shoes not worn daily go with silica packets in individual clear plastic shoe boxes labeled with ID that stack neatly, boots in larger boxes of double width & same height, feet at opposite ends & shanks along the outsides forming two interlocking L's. Two of the shoe boxes fit atop one of the boot boxes & it's easy to restack them for the season. They fit on a top shelf or floor & keep footwear clean & easily retrievable. Out of season sweaters are stacked into wider versions of the boot boxes, with arms folded across the front & the bottom folded to the neck in front. Keeps them from creasing & several fit in each box. Out of season pants & trousers go into the same size box, folded so the legs of one interlap the next pair, keeping them from wrinkling. After measuring my pants from waist to hem, found a dresser with drawers long enough to fit them without folding. Pants & sweaters are swapped out from dresser drawers to boxes each season. Inexpensive pretty hatboxes hold odds & ends, stacked or on shelves. Can you tell I've lived in homes with no or skimpy closets over the years? Some of those closets were 6" deep with single doors & hooks screwed to the wall or ceiing. Resorted to flat-top wooden trunks with & without legs that could be stacked to conserve floor space. Still have a 3-stack of those in the front room here, with others doing duty as end tables, coffee tables, bedtables, bedroom trunks & window seats in this modern home with plenty of large closets. Craft stores & places like Tuesday Morning & Marshall's carry inexpensive decorative cardboard & wooden nesting boxes in a variety of patterns & configurations, including book boxes that stack or sit upright. These hold desk papers, folders, magazines & catalogs, gloves, hats & scarves in the coat closet, even my brush in the powder room with a pedestal sink & no vanity. So fond of trunks & boxes, even the matching end tables flanking the LR sofa are hinged trunks on legs holding a stash of board games close at hand & out of sight... Here is a link that might be useful: Attachable hangers example This post was edited by vasue on Tue, Jan 6, 15 at 18:58...See Morewestvillager
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