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undermount cast iron sink/wood counter

13 years ago

We're leaning toward an undermount cast iron sink (Kohler Bakersfield) and a wood countertop. Worried about water damage to the countertop and also about mounting such a heavy sink. Worries justified? Would appreciate advice from people with similar setups.

BTW really looking forward to an undermount sink -- hate cleaning that sludge from the awkward space behind our current sink's lip and looking forward to sweeping stuff straight into the bowl. In fact, this and the prospect of decent ventilation are my two biggest sources of excitement!

Thanks in advance.

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Comments (5)

artemis78
13 years ago
We don't have a wood counter but have the Kohler Cape Dory, which is a really similar sink. It comes with a mounting kit that is supported by the cabinet sides, so you should be completely fine with any type of counter there as long as the sides of the cabinet box are sturdy. Ours are 3/4" ply and the thing is rock solid. Others with wood counters can weigh in on strategies for treating the wood near the sink, but I think Waterlox is often suggested.
MCMesprit
13 years ago
We had butcher block counter tops in a previous kitchen with a drop in sink. I too hated cleaning behind the sink -- especially because the wood did begin to suffer water damage after 2-3 years. The wood was protected with multiple layers of lacquer (meant for exteriors) which did a great job keeping it pristine everywhere else in the kitchen. But it proved too impractical to keep water off it around the sink.
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This is an old thread so not sure these folks are around anymore--you may have better luck posting a new question--but we have a Cape Dory that we put in about 12 years ago using the Kohler mounting kit. We did not reinforce it otherwise, though our cabinets have very solid plywood boxes. Our plumber installed the sink but we did the mounting kit piece since he hadn't used it before. There are also some options for third party straps that will work too--someone with more familiarity with those may be able to recommend one for the Irontones sink. We just used the Kohler kit because it's what we knew about and Kohler stood behind it in case anything went sideways, but it's been trouble-free. We wanted to be able to remove and replace the sink from below if needed without removing the counters, though happily have never needed to do this. We don't have quartz counters (ours are soapstone) but not sure that would make much difference since the counters sit on top of it.
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Thanks for the responses. @hollysprings - I'm definitely not going to do this myself. I'm just trying to figure out if it can be done and not look like total garbage. When I say 'I am' I actually mean my contractor. I've actually found one picture that looks pretty similar to what I'm suggesting. I wasn't going to use a farmhouse sink but it's not totally out of the question. @trebruchet - I'm sure I can physically make this work. It more about how ridiculous it's going to look. (or more importantly, not ridiculous) Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Stainless Counter with Cast Iron Sink
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Chronic water exposure is a tough situation for any finish. End grain exposure makes it worse. Maple also has a relatively high coefficient of expansion with moisture content, IIRC. If it was mine, I'd put something else around the edge of the sink.
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Putting a seam inthe middle of a UMS is no big deal - as long as the guy doing it knows how to do it properly. I always like to see the sink supported from underneath - either with a Sink Setter system - or wood cleats screwed to the cabinet assembly... either method will work fine - as long as you DO NOT hang the sink from the underside of the stone - in your case - using the hangar clips with a seam in the middle puts added stress at the seam - so I would not recommend using the clips alone = especially with a cast iron sink - SS yes - Cast Iron = NO !!! ask to see some of the previous examples of the work your fabricatr has done in similar instances if you are not sure - do NOT "assume" - remember that "when you do "assume" - it makes an ass out of U and an ass out of ME" LOL See things for yourself first hand and when you are satisfied - make your buying decision... hth kevin
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rhome410
13 years ago
We put our island sink in as a top mounted sink...But the Waterlox does seem to be protecting the wood really well from wetness around the sink. For an undermount, you'd need to also protect the edge and underside of the wood...probably several inches back. But it should be possible.
User
13 years ago
We have an antique soapstone sink undermounted in a teak countertop. So far after 5 yrs the Waterlox has prevented any damage at all to the counter top. It is our only kitchen sink so sees a LOT of use :) The whole of the very heavy sink rests on the cabinet box so that is where your strength needs to be. Good Luck ! c
bestiarius
13 years ago
Isn't the Bakersfield sink a drop in, not an undermount? We have the Kohler Lakefield cast iron sink mounted under a chestnut counter. It is not hung from the countertop, it's sitting on the cabinet that is under the sink. Undermounts are great for wood counters. Our faucet is mounted on the chestnut and has been in for about 7 years now. The counter is finished with several coats of Waterlox. This finish has protected the countertop very well in general, but there is a small spot of rot at the base of the faucet where water sat for long periods of time.

Be sure to seal the underside of your counter, and any holes you have cut into the countertop. This will prevent warping and other water related problems.

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