Allrightythen. Remove the lint bucket. There's a single screw toward the bottom behind the bucket to remove the housing. Pull the housing out first at the bottom to clear the moisture sensor bars, then down and out. Next, remove the screw at bottom center of the outer plastic ring. The screw is recessed into the ring so a magnetic screw driver is useful to get it out. Press your hands on the plastic ring, rotate it slightly clockwise to detach it from side of the drum, the filter comes out with it. Housing & filter ring removed. Clean/vacuum any accumulated lint from the area, careful not to snag the wires. The filter snaps to the retainer ring. Reverse the procedure to reassemble. When reinstalling the bucket housing, insert the top of it (lint scraper) first, then swing the bottom into position around the sensor bars.

But, you said yourself that the momentary recirculation during rinse fill does not have any scent or evidence of softener. :-) Being that I've not yet met a WA37T26G, I can't say with 100% confidence ... but based on my use of a GWL08 since 1999 and an IWL12 since 2004, and examinations of both machines and service manuals thereof, I'm reasonably sure. Recirculation simply picks up whatever water/fluids are in the outer tub and showers it into the inner basket, where it flows back to the outer tub to be picked up again for more recirculation. Unless F&P has radically changed the mechanical design of the tub and sump (which is possible, but I doubt so), there's no way to retain the softener in the outer tub (sump) after it releases when spin stops for the saturation spray that you described. It'll be pumped down the drain with the spray rinses and water extracted from the clothes, long before the rinse fill and momentary recirculation occurs. There's free-flow of water between the inner basket and outer tub, so anything in either one will mix through to the other via agitation currents as well as recirculation via the pump. My older GWL08 does not have the divertor valve and recirculation / EcoActive wash system. It does only a traditional deep-fill agitated wash ... and the instruction manual still advises to add detergent into the agitator. Softener dribbles down the agitator when it dispenses (same as your machine) and mixes though the clothes via agitation, no recirculation occurs or is required. GWL08 does an agitated deep rinse by default, with a Water Saver option button for shower rinsing .. and warns not to use softener with Water Saver .. same as your machine warns not to use it without the Softener Rinse option. As for adding detergent into the agitator, that's not *required*, it's simply F&P's quirky/preferred suggestion. The theory is that it'll dissolve/mix with water beneath the agitator and in the outer tub, minimizing exposing the clothes to undissolved detergent granules. The machine will work perfectly fine with detergent added directly to the tub, sprinkled atop the clothes. My IWL12 has the EcoActive system, but does not use it for the Handwash, Shoes, and Comforter cycles, and perhaps a couple others. All EcoSmart models from GWL10 (or 09) through GWL15 (and presumably your WA37T26G) have skipped EcoActive on the Perm Press cycle, going directly to a deep-fill agitated wash. If recirculation was crucial to dispensing of detergent, surely it'd be done for at least a couple mins on all cycles. Try this: Run a load with Softener Rinse, and instead of using the dispenser, add softener down the agitator during rinse fill, AFTER the momentary recirculation is finished. Then notice if there's evidence of softener and scent on the clothes. F&P tends to be slow responding to e-mail, particularly if the question needs to passed along to other personnel. I had suggested previously to try setting the machine for a double deep rinse, which may be the only way to get softener dispensed properly. That's not quite correct ... you can of course add softener manually to the deep rinse.

@derauf Permanent Press is the cycle that doesn't run Eco Active recirculation. Did you remove and examine the diverter for a broken linkage, or a foreign object jamming it from physically shifting modes? Assuming your pump runs and the diverter is not broken or jammed, a cause of continuous recirculation (failure to drain) is a bad motor controller board that continuously powers the diverter, per the previous replies to Greg Neault in this thread. Using Permanent Press won't circumvent that problem because the board is bad and powers the diverter at all times regardless of the selected cycle. A possible work-around is via disconnecting the diverter wires. Permanent Press is the only cycle that would work that way. The motor board would run the pump during recirculation periods on the other cycles which would drain the water even if the diverter is disconnected.

Lesley711, You either have a bad pump or a bad control board that isn't sending power to the pump. Should be easy-enough to determine which is the cause. Check for 120v at the pump wires when it should be running, either via diagnostics or set the machine to the final spin. The board should be good if there's power at the wires. You can also check the pump for 7 ohms resistance reading ... or try running it directly by connecting it to a test power cord. Also could be lint/strings accumulation or a foreign object is jamming the pump impeller, which can be investigated by dismounting the pump for examination.