In order to provide adequate light, can lights have to be spaced in a specific way. The spacing depends on the ceiling height and the 'circle of light' produced by the can light. I googled 'recessed lighting layout' and this site from Forte Electric has good information. The website is not very professional looking but has good advice. This is from Pegasus Lighting Blog but is more general than detailed: To determine how far apart to space your recessed lights, divide the height of the ceiling by two. If a room has an 8 foot ceiling, you should space your recessed lights approximately 4 feet apart. If the ceiling is 10 feet, youâÂÂll want to put about 5 feet of space in between each fixture. For my tastes and eyesight (and age!) you may not have enough light in your kitchen. The UCL will be great but the pendants over the island may or may not provide a lot of light - it depends on the bulb wattage of the fixtures you choose. My current kitchen has only recessed lights and I sure could use more light. Plus, the cans are placed slightly beyond the the counter edges so I stand in my own shadow. I think there is a lot more to recessed lighting layout than simply placing (x) number of feet apart. Here is a link that might be useful: How to layout recessed lighting

Thanks for the responses everyone! Let's see if I can address them all: There's a lot of focus on my guest bedroom area. My intent for that space is really to "flex" with us as our family ages, like you said, @lavender_lass. For now, I see it being used as an extra room- play room, or whatever with a bed or pull out couch for the infrequent times we do have adult over night guests. It can also be used as a BR if someone breaks their leg or has surgery or something. Then, as we age, it will become our Master bedroom. The Guest bath is large because we needed one that is wheelchair accessible. We have 3 friends and family members in w/c now, so it was drawn with them in mind. (And any future handicaps in ourselves.) So currently, it will be used as the bathroom that every guest uses when they visit. I didn't want it to open right on to the family room, cuz I think that's a little tacky! :) I don't like the door being where it is to the "guest suite" or flex space or whatever you want to call it. I was thinking about moving the door down, like you suggested, @kirkhall. Since you mentioned it, I'm thinking that's probably a really good idea! @fotomatt- just curious what you meant about the small look/sq footage? Didn't know if you meant that I haven't used the space well, or if I did use it well! Does the exterior elevation look wrong? I was actually worried that I have too much sqft. Just wondering- I won't bite, I promise! :) @andi_k- good point! And actually, after looking at those pics again, they don't seem to have alot of usable counter space, either. I might have to rethink my vision for that room. Adding a little footage to the mudroom might be on the agenda. I need to check and see if it will jive with the upstairs. So....what do you think about my front windows, then? Should I cut them down to 2 casements w/ transoms? That would give me a little more room to play with in the mudroom, but would that ruin my exterior look? So many good things to think about! I appreciate them all!

So glad this brought a laughter to your life Victoria. We ask cause it doesn’t hurt too, maybe somedayyy someoneee that actually has it could share with us a link where we could go and pay for it. I certainly would do it. If you have nothing positive or helpful to contribute, then don’t post uncooperative comments. Thanks.

The dimmer I have should be more than enough to dim all the undercabinet and in cabinet lighting. I haven't picked out the in-cabinet lighting yet, however, the undercabinet lighting is line voltage, direct wire, "Xenon" bulbs. There are 6 of these lights. I haven't found my pendent lighting yet either, but I am looking for a low voltage setup with a built in transformer so I can wire it at line voltage and dim with a normal dimmer. I don't really have any physical place to put an extra switch for the pendent lighting, though I understand why you would suggest that I wire it on a separate switch. It will really only need to be full blast when doing dishes, and at that point, it will be kitchen clean up time and having the undercabinet lights on full will be ideal. I am using full size boxes for the lighting. The switch that receives the power and distributes is a 4-gang box and has a good bit of room for the wires and wire nuts. I am using plastic boxes without cable clamps, they utilize an angled plastic piece that grabs the wire shielding and prevents it from being pulled back out of the box. My biggest concern is verifying that I can run the setup in the fashion shown. I want to start running the wire, but I don't want to go to the trouble and have it set up incorrectly. From what I can tell from reference material, this should work. If absolutely necessary, I could add a switch for the pendent lights over the sink and run it separately. Once I run the wires, they are set, and I won't be able to change them. Ideally I would run double dimmers. However, if this is not possible, I will run one 3-way dimmer and one 3-way switch.