Hi there Dadoe, I’m back again for your wisdom, I still have the Iwl16 machine and it’s been working great since you last helped me out, the drain pump went out on it in February 2019 and I replaced it, however now whenever it runs out of water but the machine still has it engaged it’s making a screaching sound that’s pretty noticeable even with the laundry room doors closed. Pump sounds fine as long as it actually has water to pump out or recirculate...once it gets to the rinse and spin phases where the pump is engaged but not having much water to pump is where the problem comes in...I have tried another brand new pump and it’s actually worse than the one I installed a year ago, I even tried a new motor controller board only to have the same issue. Am I missing something or are they just really making crappy quality pumps now?? The machine works fine, just noisy now and it’s definitely the drain pump but I’m not gonna keep purchasing drain pumps til I get a good one...any advice would be appreciated

Bought a Kenmore Oasis washer from their Outlet Store (scratch and dent model) in Atlanta last week for half price, and have a problem. I keep getting an error code "LF" on every Final Rinse cycle. It works great until it gets to the final rinse, and then it just trickles the tiniest amount of water into the drum from the top/back edge of the machine with no agitation of the drum what-so-ever... I just hear a slight humming sound like maybe the sollenoid isn't opening fully for the rinse cycle...This slow fill lasts for about 25 minutes then the machine stops and flashes up a "LF" (which stands for Long Fill) message. I have managed to work around it by pressing stop when I get the error message and opening the lid and filling the tub with water from my laundry sink hose to cover the clothes. I then close the lid and it finally senses the water level has been reached, and it resumes the final rinse and spin. Resulting in a wonderfully clean laundry wash. I have checked the water hoses, and there is NO blockage. However, this machine did NOT come with fill hoses and I purchased two new hoses from Lowes that were anti burst/restrictor hoses, so maybe these hoses are not allowing enough water to get through, though like I said, it only happens on the final rinse cycle. Water flows in normally at the beginning of the wash cycle so I feel it isn't the hoses. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? Any info would be appreciate before I get my hubby to load the washer back up in his truck and return it to the Sears Outlet Store.

Machine Status is all normal info: Diverter is off (or heating, on, or cooling) HVDC refers to control board voltage Size is correct OOB is off-balance switch status (push tub to the right/rear to trigger it) T is the temp reading from the thermistor in the water inlet chamber Target is the target mixed inlet temp per the selected wash temperature (blank unless the machine is filling for wash) OOB Warning Status is of no concern. Fault 9 is size switch error ... which is strange. Was either the display board or motor control board replaced some while ago? The machine size (diameter of the basket in millimeters - all US models are the largest size but NZ/Aus models are sold in three capacities) must be programmed into the control board, which typically is done only when the board is replaced. Anyway, that was 746 cycles ago (maybe left from factory configuration), so no concern now. Indication thus far is that you may be having erratic power drop-outs on the household circuit to which the machine is connected. Or maybe the power plug is loose in the socket? Or the power cord is damaged, has a broken wire internally? Check the circuit, wall outlet, and machine's power cord into the console. ------------------------------------------------------- For your reference, Diagnostic Mode on IWL models can be engaged while a cycle is running. Machine Status will report the target temp during fill. After triggering Diagnostics, press and hold Lifecycle for an additional beep (then Lifecycle yet again if the display is blank). 2nd-level diagnostics gives two additional screens. Version Status reports six parameters. Of interest is the instantaneous SmartDrive motor RPM reading. It should max-out up to 1,010 RPM for high spin speed. The 5th screen is not labeled, gives info related to fabric sensing and water level sensing. WL I believe refers to the water level depth in the tub in millimeters, the other parameters are mysteriously cryptic (except to F&P software engineers). Press Power once to exit back to normal operation display, the running cycle will not be interrupted. While in Diagnostics, press (and hold) How Dirty Up to run the hot water valve. How Dirty Down for cold. Fabric Care (press, don't hold) toggles the pump on/off. Home button toggles the diverter valve on/off for testing ... Machine Status screen will report Heating, then On ... or Cooling, then Off. Diverter On + Pump On (with water in the tub) = recirculation. Diverter Off + Pump On = drain. When the display is blank in Diagnostics, press Options Down for Control Options screen, then: - Home button toggles Restart -- when enabled (highlighted, default) the machine will automatically "restart" (potentially several times) when a fault occurs in an attempt to recover from the condition; when disabled (not highlighted), the machine will stop immediately when a fault occurs. - Options Up button manually toggles Hot Tub -- this software flag prevents spin faster than medium speed and is "set" by the control board each time a hot or warm wash fill occurs, and auto-resets after a cold rinse. - Adjust button toggles Recycle mode -- when enabled (normally is not) and a cycle is run, the machine will continually repeat the cycle from start to finish until manually shut off, for purpose of troubleshooting faults/malfunctions that are erratic. Machine size is set via Fabric Care + Power. Adjust button to select size, Power to exit & save. For fun ... Start + Power engages Demonstration Mode. All the lights flash and an information scroll runs over the display at repeated intervals. Cycles and options can be selected but the machine cannot be started for safety purposes in a store display. Press/hold How Dirty Up to play a tune. Press/hold Fabric Care (for a 2nd beep), then How Dirty Up again for a different tune. There are two or three tunes (if How Dirty Up tops-out from repeated presses, crank the indicator back down with How Dirty Down to continue playing). NOTE -- Pressing Power shuts the machine off but Demo mode remains active (again, for safety purposes) ... UNPLUG the cord for 15 seconds to reset Demo mode.

Do you use softener sheets in the dryer? Try cleaning the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol. There's a diagnostic for the sensor bars thusly: With the power Off, press and hold Auto Dry Down, then press Power. It'll beep once, but no panel lights come on. Press Auto Dry Up five times. A few lights on the panel may flicker. Brush your fingers or a damp cloth over the sensor bars, and the flickering indicator lights will change to show it's sensing moisture. The lights should drop back when the moisture evaporates off the bars. If the lights don't change, then there's a problem with the bars or sensor circuit. Press any cycle button (Delicate, Regular, etc.) to exit the diagnostic. By return duct, I assume you mean exhaust duct. What does the 6-foot distance involve exactly? Is that the distance from back of the dryer to the wall? Or is it the FULL length from back of the dryer to outside the house? If the ducting to outside the house is longer, have you examined/cleaned the FULL length of it to confirm there's not a clog somewhere? The machine can generally detect an exhaust blockage by way of high element temperature due to insufficient airflow. It will signal a problem by beeping and flashing the Auto Sensing light during the cycle, and it should continue beeping and flashing after the cycle ends until any panel button is pressed. If the blockage is bad enough, the elements will overheat and trip the manual-reset overheat protector. The dryer will then run but there'll be no heat until the reset button behind the front panel is pressed. Shouldn't be any need to replace the heating elements (yes, there are two) unless something is actually wrong with them. Was there a confirmed problem with them, or was the repairman replacing them just trying to find a fix to the problem? Wrinkle free element? There's no "element" for that. (Or are you using the word "element" to mean "feature?") The dryer simply tumbles the clothes in unheated air for 30 seconds every 5 minutes, for a maximum of 256 tumble periods. It can't run more than 24 hrs. 5 mins x 256 = 1280 mins 30 secs x 256 = 7680 seconds 7680 seconds / 60 secs in a min = 128 mins 1280 mins + 128 mins = 1408 mins 1408 mins / 60 mins in an hr = 23.4 hrs