I have them growing in both and it makes no difference for THIS hoya. With others it may make a difference. When I bought this plant it was less than half the size and was in a 14" basket so I have actualy potted it down some. I live in Oregon where it is cool and overcast a lot of the year. Carnosa plants are just growers and the beer fert. is amazing. I also use the MSU fert. and am conducting my own experiments on which works (for me) better/longer etc. One thing I have learned from spending years on these websites is that NOTHING works for everyone. What works for me may or may not work for anyone else. I have to repot all the hoya I get from AH in Hawaii or they die within a few months. Most people love her soil but it does not work for me or another gal who lives close to me. Our enviroment is just too different from Hawaii. BTW, I potted up the cuttings you sent me and they are all doing well :) I prefer to be anonymous on this site. I don't contribute often and only about what I feel confident in saying, so please don't use my name. THanks, HN

>>>"But from what I can find, seem that you either get a lemon or a good one , but all thread seem to be older..."I'm not understanding this comment. Did you mean: (1) that all the NXR threads are older; or (2) all the theads about NXR lemons are older; or (3) that there is a high probability of getting a lemon (as with Viking in some recent years)? If #1 was what you meant, there must be something wrong with the GW search engine because there are two active and long-running NXR threads here with postings as recent as last weekend. If # 2 was what you meant, I'm guessing you are referring to the two older postings -- in longer threads --- from NX buyers who had problems with flaking oven enamel. A third person posted a youtube video. That's pretty much it. A couple of NXR users (StacyNeil and DirtyBloomers) have had an oven glow-bar ignitor wear out, but that is an inexpensive, readily available, user-installable part. Apparently, the oven circuits on earlier models were trying too hard to maintain a perfectly even oven temp and so were cycling on so frequently that they could wear out the glow-bar ignitor. Stacy reported that there is a fix for that on older models and the models since 2011 (DRGB models) do not cycle as frequently. This allows a bit more latitude on heating. Right now, the oven in my 2012 NXR DRGB3001 seems to allow a +/- 10 F temperature variance before activating or shutting off the burner. My previous stove, a GE dual fuel, would go as low as 40F below the set temp before kicking back on and would go as much as 20F above before cycling off. This seems to be common on many residential ranges. If the # 3 point is what was intended, that would be incorrect. Basically, the NXRs are like old-fashioned gas stoves dressed up with a "pro-style" look and supplied with the minimal updates of a convection fan for the oven, an infrared in-oven broiler, spark ignitors for the burners, and a re-ignitor circuit in case a low-flame burner blows out. There just is not much to go wrong. Any component that could fail over time is a readily available, off-the shelf part. User serviceable, if you are so inclined. To be sure, that old-fashioned simplicity can be as much a disadvantage as a benefit, depending on what you want from your stove. While some will see the lack of electronics as an advantage for durability, others may want the flexibility and features that come from integrated circuits. Multiple convection modes, for example, and oven self cleaning functions. Others may want a more polished look to their stove. The NXR is pretty basic and a plain piece of work. It is not as pretty as a Bertazonni nor, for that matter, the DCS. And this brings me back to your original question about whether to get the 6-year old DCS with a backsplash, a DCS warming drawer, and DCS range hood for $2500. I will echo Weissman's questions. Why is the seller disposing of this rig? Has it been troublesome or has the owner maybe decided to go for an even bigger kitchen remodel with larger stuff? Is this a divorce or estate sale? Has the equipment already been removed or can you check it out to be sure everything is operating to your satisfaction? Check out the burner caps and components. Make sure they are not corroded or rusting. What model is the stove? My recollection is that DCS had two 30-inch models, the 304 and 305. One had convection and (I think) self-cleaning and the other did not. The non-convection one is probably easier to work on if it needs service and probably easier to fix (as with the NXR). How big is the range hood? The rule of thumb for rangehoods is that you want them to extend three inches or so beyond the sides of your stove. IOW, it is preferable to have a 36-inch hood for a 30-inch stove. A 30-inch hood over a 30-inch stove will work but will not work as well as a wider hood because steam and etc. can flow out to the sides. How much cleaning will have to be done before you install it in your place. What size venting does it use? How deep and how tall is it? Will you have to modify or remove existing cabinets? If you already have a venthood, will the DCS hood fit with the existing installation? If you do not get this array of stuff, what do you plan for a range-hood if you get the Berta? Do you have an existing range hood? How much cleaning needs to be done? Who will remove the equipment from the owner's place (if it is not already removed.) How will you get the equipment moved and installed? Have you checked on parts availability? If not, I suggest you get the stove model number and see what SearsPartsDirect carries and what (if anything) is no longer available. In the area where you live, is there anybody who sells and//or services DCS appliances. I suggest calling them up an see if they will tell you anything about parts availability and the need for service on this year and model of stove. Maybe they can give you a sense of market values for the array of stuff being offered.

I would replace it. That's a lot of money to spend on a machine that is much more than halfway through its expected lifespan. Miele, ASKO, Bosch; those are machines from which I expect more than 10 years -- and even those brands have their less-stellar models and "lemons". I would not expect more than 10 years out of a recent Whirlpool, which essentially is what a KitchenAid is when you get down to the most solid pieces. $400 is a good portion of buying a new dishwasher, even one of those top-three brands.

Would you buy a 10 year old Bosch? no Would you buy a 10 year old Miele? yes A Bosch washer at 10 years is most likely past it's prime and repairs will start to occur more frequently. Miele washers & dryers typically last about 20 years (5 loads a week). My Miele w1918 washer is approaching 22 years. Sometimes it bangs against the cabinet before spinning (worn shocks). I'm going to replace the shocks myself for $40 and see what happens.