Washing a 100% silk duvet
bigdoglover
13 years ago
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years agobigdoglover
13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Down comforter - washing tips?
Comments (10)I have washed my down comforters and other items for many years. From an old thread: Purchase special down washing soap from a camping store or use Cuddledown down-washing product. In a pinch you can use sweater washing products without built-in f/s, but NOT liquid Woolite. The ban on Woolite applies to FL's as it is very sudsy. If you were doing this in a TL, Woolite would be OK. Do not use regular laundry detergents, especially anything with enzymes (like Cheer for instance) which will be very hard on the down. Most regular laundry detergents have various additives that could be very damaging to the down by stripping it. The special down soap is worth the trouble to locate. I have had very good luck with stuff from Cuddledown, and they sell by mail order. I prefer a product called Downe, but it may be hard to find. First inspect the comforter very carefully to locate and repair any tiny tears or seam rips. If you don't do this beforehand you will be picking the down off the inside of your machine. Pretreat any especially grimey areas with a bit of the liquid down soap. If the spots are really bad, push the down away and use a liquid spot cleaner product just on the soiled area of the shell. Rinse well in a bath tub to remove as much of the pretreater as you can as it will be hard on the down. Take the comforter down to your washing machine and stuff it in. Do not be worried if it barely fits; it's full of air and when that is pressed out, it will wash just fine. Run a cold, rinse-and-spin cycle (or whatever passes for that on your machine, even a quick wash program). DO NOT ADD SOAP at this point. Keep repeating this cycle until the machine has completely saturated the item and the spinning action has collapsed the down and driven the air out of the comforter. It should look quite smashed. It is now ready to be washed. Set the machine up for a short to medium length wash period with a high water level, at mildly warm temps with gentle action, with as many rinses as possible and an energetic spin cycle. Often gentle action comes with an attentuated spin cyle. If that's the case, don't worry about it. After the gentle wash cycle is completed, leave the item in the machine and perform a high-speed spin-only program to drive out as much moisture as possible. Use only a small amount of the down soap, as it often is quite foamy. Use NO fabric softener, though a bit of vinegar won't hurt. When you retrieve your comforter after the wash cycle it will look utterly awful, but that's OK. In fact, if it doesn't look like you've pretty much ruined it, it probably isn't clean! I generally try to do comforters on warm breezy days as I like to alternate machine drying with line drying. However I always start with a period of machine drying. When you purchase the down soap you should also get some fat nylon rings. These are necessary to bang up the wet down clumps and add some necessary static electricity at the end to regain maximum loft. Some people use clean tennis shoes or tennis balls, instead, but I find the rings more satisfactory. You can put them in clean cotton socks if the banging is annoying. You can also get these rings at pet stores that sell Nylabone dog toys. Run the dryer at low temps for an hour or more. Pause it occasionally to check that things are going well and to shake out the comforter. After an hour I would hang mine out in the wind, and alternate between periods of 2 or 3 hours outside and another hour in the dryer. The shell will dry hours before the down will, but you absolutely must soldier on and get the filling fully dry. You can pause the half-dry comforter overnight if you don't want to run it while you're sleeping. Just hang it somewhere outside the dryer and arranged relatively loosely. You do not want to allow any opportunity for the down to get moldy before it is completely dry! You will know when it is fully dry because the it will regain its original loft and a careful "feeling" of it will reveal no little bumps of clumped (and therefore still damp) down. Home-washing of down items is a lot of work, but the advantage is that they are cleaned without drycleaning solvents. Properly done they will wind up clean, soft and sweet-smelling. HTH, L....See MoreGH eileen fisher seaonless silk comforter
Comments (17)LOL, I'm right with you kiki! I fell in LOVE with that comforter, so decided to make it myself. Wow, was it ever WORK! I bought my fabric from fashionfabricsclub, after getting lots of samples. It's a washable silk charmeuse. To make the tufts, I just stitched a circle, reinforcing with felt, then stuffing with a little round tuft I got from the craft store, cinched the circle, then sewed around it like crazy from the backside. The effect is beautiful, but I'd never in a million years do it again. That silk charmeuse is terrible to work with - 17 yards of stretch and slink = nightmare to cut! Here's a picture of the finished comforter. That quilt is also from GH, in Copper. It washes wonderfully! notice I edited out the treadmill in the picture. ;-)...See MoreWashing "dry clean only" silks?
Comments (18)Hi Guys Wow! Didn't know laundry = such drama!! :) Anyways, I have some input here. Agree with cavium, really a 50/50 risk when the silk says "dry clean only." It really depends on the finish and manufacture of the silk. Typically, it won't shrink, but color may run, and if there are special finishes that give the fabric body or sheen, then finish may be rinsed away leaving the garment with a different look and feel. If it said "hand wash only," then the Miele silk cycle is 100% OK. The problem with "dry clean only" could be that the garment manufacturers may be trying to cover themselves, so it is safest for them to label the garment with a dry clean only fabric care label. THE OTHER ISSUE here is pressing. With delicate fabrics, ironing at home will yield very different results than pressing/steaming with professional equipment. That said, if the garment is unique and expensive then think twice, but if you're willing to chance it AND the garment would not be adversely impacted by home ironing or air drying, you may be pleasantly surprised that the garment can be water washed. I've had to make that decision with fine wool sweaters that say "dry clean only" and found that the Woolens cycle is superb for wool, and subsequently gotten more use out of my sweaters (I feel I can wear them more and thus wash them more) without amassing $100's in dry cleaning bills. In the Miele washers with a COLD and NO HEAT water temp options (with some cycle exceptions in the Super Large American size capacity machines), the difference is that NO HEAT means cold water directly from the tap. If you select COLD, then tap cold water will be heated by the internal heating element to 85 degrees F (still cold) which is really helpful when using powder detergents or during the winter where tap cold water is TOO cold to clean fabrics sufficiently or dissolve/activate detergents. The Super Large American sized machines - the W4800 series - only use the water heater in certain cycles. For example, in the NORMAL cycle you can choose HOT (that is normally 140 degrees F with the Euro-size Miele machines), and the machine will use hot water from the hot water hose/line, but it will NOT heat the water regardless of temp. But in in the Wrinkle Free cycle, choosing HOT will activate the internal water heater. I cannot recall all of the cycles that utilize the internal water heater, but I "believe" that Silk and Woolens cycle do. In these machines, even when using a cycle that DOES use the internal water heater, the temperatures are not "guaranteed" to the predefined water temp. Rather, the internal water heater will be turned on and the machine will ATTEMPT to heat the water to a predefined temp (140 for HOT, for example), but due to cycles times and a lower watt heating unit it may not actually achieve that temp. I don't think that for the Silk cycle, these water heating method of the machines is that crucial since your only choices are NO HEAT and COLD... UNLESS your tap cold water is really cold (like during winter time) where the water is too cold to detergent activation (you would probably use a speciality liquid detergent for silks anyway, and not powders) or cleaning (if you garment had heavier soiling). Happy washing....See MoreWashing Wool LOL
Comments (55)Elmer J Fudd (formerly S Whiplash) wrote: "Care labels are on garments for a reason, that's the best guide. My comment was generic rather than specific, lest someone think from the first comment that all wool items can be "washed". Dry clean only means just that." The labels are for recommendation. As for being there for a reason, well sometime, the reason isn't always justifiable in the care of the fabric. In other words, just because the label said to "dry clean only", it doesn't mean that it is the only way to clean the garment. Silk fabric is a good example of this. Every time, I see the "dry clean only" label on silk garments, I giggle. Think about it, what came first, silk fabric or the dry cleaning method? Silk is actually a pretty strong fiber. People in ancient time had mainly washed silk garments by hand and hung them to dry. I do the same. I put all my silk garments in the washer and use the gentle cycle. Then, I hang them up to dry. Once the garment is ironed, the shine of the silk comes right back. LOL, I think the reason silk (of Chinese origin) is labeled for dry cleaning is to help out all those dry cleaners that are mainly owned by the Asians :) Now back to wool, like someone already said it, wool is basically animal hair. Animals do get wet (from rain or whatever) but their hair remains well. Some things to remember when washing wool fiber is to use cold water and be gentle enough so it won't shrink and felt the fabric; unless, felting was meant to be done. Ah, I need to get back on my knitting. I've been wanting to make a wool felt hat....See Moreregus_patoff
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13 years agolast modified: 9 years agoMichele Johnson
8 years agolast modified: 8 years ago
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