The problem can be a limit switch, thermostat, wiring, or the heating element. If the circuit breaker is only working on 1 leg, because the other leg did not trip both legs, the element will get kinda warm, but not hot enough to dry clothes. The motor uses 110vac only.

If the dryer has a lot of lint, this is a fire hazard, so clean the lint first. Remove the belt from the tensioner, and remove the drum. Check the wheels, and tensioner pulley for free spinning.

When you get all of the lint removed, look for the various limit switches. Most dryers have 2. An operating limit and a overtemp limit. They are mounted in either the exhaust path or the air path. Check the element with an ohm meter for continuity. The plug can cause the element to fail. Look for melted wires or gray connections. Replace wiring where necessary with same size and type wire. Most limit switches should read continuity when cold. They open at specified temperatures, as labeled on the switch. Blocked air passages will also cause the dryer to not dry clothes. A clogged vent will cause the dryer to have too hot of air, which causes the element to turn off.

My Dryer was made in 1970. Until it fails or rusts away, it will continue to dry my clothes. My dryer uses a moisture sensor to determine when clothes are dry. This is as good as it gets.

Well, that gives me a GREAT starting point.
And I like the idea of giving it a good cleaning.
Even tho that will be a lot of work.

The circuit breaker doesn't look tripped.
I could turn it off and back on just in case.
But then I would want to know why it tripped.

Never took a dryer apart before.
This is gonna take a while. Should be interesting.
In the past my Dad has always done this kind of stuff.
But I need to start doing it for myself. He isn't able anymore.
He will probably still insist on supervising.

Thanks for the wonderful information.
Hope this turns out to be something simple (and cheap).

Thanks.

Pooh Bear