Before you buy anything from Sears, shop other stores. We checked out Sears a couple of times (and Great Indoors which is owned and operated by Sears) while shopping for W/D during the past few months. We purchased in March 09. We looked hard at F&P, Samsung, Miele, and Maytag. Sears charged more for all these brands. Plus, they wanted twice as much for the same level of extended warranty than what Lowes charged. In the end we purchased the Samsungs at Lowes. We paid less than what Sears was asking; plus we paid 50% less for the extended warranty. Plus we got an $85 gift card (the value of the delivery cost); they advertise it free delivery, but it's not really free delivery. You pay for the delivery and they give you a Lowes' gift card for the value of the delivery cost. Still, I shop at Lowes so I don't mind getting it back in the form of a gift card.

Do you use softener sheets in the dryer? Try cleaning the sensor bars with rubbing alcohol. There's a diagnostic for the sensor bars thusly: With the power Off, press and hold Auto Dry Down, then press Power. It'll beep once, but no panel lights come on. Press Auto Dry Up five times. A few lights on the panel may flicker. Brush your fingers or a damp cloth over the sensor bars, and the flickering indicator lights will change to show it's sensing moisture. The lights should drop back when the moisture evaporates off the bars. If the lights don't change, then there's a problem with the bars or sensor circuit. Press any cycle button (Delicate, Regular, etc.) to exit the diagnostic. By return duct, I assume you mean exhaust duct. What does the 6-foot distance involve exactly? Is that the distance from back of the dryer to the wall? Or is it the FULL length from back of the dryer to outside the house? If the ducting to outside the house is longer, have you examined/cleaned the FULL length of it to confirm there's not a clog somewhere? The machine can generally detect an exhaust blockage by way of high element temperature due to insufficient airflow. It will signal a problem by beeping and flashing the Auto Sensing light during the cycle, and it should continue beeping and flashing after the cycle ends until any panel button is pressed. If the blockage is bad enough, the elements will overheat and trip the manual-reset overheat protector. The dryer will then run but there'll be no heat until the reset button behind the front panel is pressed. Shouldn't be any need to replace the heating elements (yes, there are two) unless something is actually wrong with them. Was there a confirmed problem with them, or was the repairman replacing them just trying to find a fix to the problem? Wrinkle free element? There's no "element" for that. (Or are you using the word "element" to mean "feature?") The dryer simply tumbles the clothes in unheated air for 30 seconds every 5 minutes, for a maximum of 256 tumble periods. It can't run more than 24 hrs. 5 mins x 256 = 1280 mins 30 secs x 256 = 7680 seconds 7680 seconds / 60 secs in a min = 128 mins 1280 mins + 128 mins = 1408 mins 1408 mins / 60 mins in an hr = 23.4 hrs

We have both the GW11 Washer (good choice and ok) and my wife insisted she wanted a new dryer to go with it (the old dryer did need a new timer but ok). I was no keen on the DGGX1 dryer due to its complicated machinations of side winder drum and door closer setup. What killed the original washer was lint build up as my wife does some fabric work and gets a load of that at the time and the rep said the GW11 was designed to avoid that, it has 100% good with that, never another lint problem. We had it 10 years and it started to make god awful squeals. After a lot of trouble shooting (there is a diagnostics for that) the pump was bad. Replacing the pump is a bit of a pain as you have to lay it on its side but otherwise easy as you release a tap and it pops out. Yes I tested the old pump and it was awful (I do a lot of mechanic building work so that is not new) One thing that fooled me was not reading carefully that the washer does a recycle water rinse soap thing and the pump would act up during that, so knowing the sequence and how it works points to the pump despite most washers using just fill water. However, in the course of making sure all was clean and ok I shined a light up the drain tube and saw a flapper. I am thinking its the diverter valve and in the wrong position but its not quite where the valve would be and its bright shiny silver, hmm, the size of a dime>? Yes a dime and plug of stuff. so you darned well better look or you can replace the pump and still have an issue. I pulled the other hose and made sure it was clean too. AND YES A SMALL OBJECGT CAN SOMEHOW GET INTO THERE SO DON'T BELIVE THE ONE POST, AT LEAST LOOK!!!!!!! Last they want you to splice in a fuse to the main board to protect it, they missed that. Its a dicey operation as the wires on the machine are tiny and the fuse wire is huge. Poor kit. I cut it in where there was a lot of room to res-plice if the splice went bad, they say right by the plug, if you do and you fray the wires you have no wire left to work with. Top loader is No Longer Made I believe, so only repair for old ones. As for the DGGX top loader, it worked ok until it got a squeeek/squak. Wisdom was the right side bearing, got it and nada, it was fine (typically we do 3 loads a week so we are not heavy users). What I found was the tensioner was making noise, I found if I moved it to one side it quit, so I wired it over a bit and ok for some time. 11 years into it and suddenly it goes nuts, squeeling, squalling and impossible. So I did the check of both ends, cleaned the right bearing, made sure the stub shaft was ok, cleaned the other end up and it worked ok for a week. the first screen assembly on the left end comes out easy as its a obvious Phillips screw and pops off. The assembly that holds the lint filter is a bugger as the screw is in the bottom and its a combo hex and Phillips type screw and its in there hard. Better off if you can get a thin wall socket in there (I got it out with Phillips but it better be a GOOD number two and you better be strong. Hex size is 7mm and not sure even a slim line socked will go in the hole. If not it might be worth drilling it larger if the screw will not move with a number 2 Phillips. the lint screen also had huge holes torn in it and no idea how or why, but that's 70 some bucks too. I think this needs to be checked about once every 4 years. then worse than even. Time to disassemble and look at that tensioner. Its fairly easy but you do need to know the steps and screw locations. This is a good guide. http://www.frontloadbearings.com/fisher-paykel-degx1-dggx1-dryer/#.VVa0DGzTmwV More or less you lift the lid, pull it straight up and it comes off. Remove the rubber plug left and right front and two screws come out (Phillips 2) and you lift the top and lay it back. At that point you need to unplug the connector that connects the display to the controller as the whole assembly will roll forward soon. then two screws on the front (smaller ones), spread the side and the front cover comes up a bit and comes off (ground connection also that needs to be put back. Once done then the whole drum rolls out and you can get to the tensioner (screwdriver to pry it off as there is an opening and pry against a bar. Our had one that was totally trashed with huge cleaned and uneven wear. Lubed and back together until parts get here. It was worth taking the front cover off as huge amounts of lint in the bottom including some that was blocking gas flow tube and covering up the intake about 25%. Not exactly maint free but reasonably done if you are handy. so line screen every 4 years inspect and clean it up at the same time and should be good. I don't know about the pulleys, why one is bad and one good when they both tension is mystery, kit comes with two and you may wind up if you have it long enough putting the second one on in the same place if it has more thrust or whatever took it out and it starting making noise 6-8 years in so it went quick for pretty light use.

MissouriBill already posted a link to the user manuals, so I won't repeat that. :-) Upon powering-on, they'll start every time at the same default cycle, so that should work as an orientation-point. Separate cycle/fabric buttons are arranged linearly on the washer, so that's easy. One button rotates through Time Saver, Soak, and Softener Rinse separately, then in combination of Time Saver + Softener Rinse and Soak + Softener Rinse (not sure in which order). On my older GWL08, Soak + Time Saver is not an allowed choice. I don't know if WA37TG1 has the same restriction. On this button since it continually rotates forward through the choices with no "top" or "bottom" end-point, so there's no way for you to know where you are in the sequence if you get lost ... but you can simply kill the power and start over. The next groups of options for Wash Temp, Water Level, and Spin Speed have separate "Up" and "Down" buttons to move through the selections. Upon reaching the "top" or "bottom" of the selection choices, the machine will make a "raspberry" tone to let you know you can't go further in that direction. The Delay Start button, like the Rinse/Soak button, simply rotates through choices of 9 hrs, 6 hrs, or 1 hr. You may have no use for Delay Start ... but if so, kill the power and start over if you get lost. The button to Advance cycle progress manually may be a little problematical since it works along with the LED cycle progress indicators. I don't recall now if it "raspberries" at the end (final spin) or wraps-around to the beginning. My GWL08 is at my grandmother's house so I can't check right now. However, it does move in specific steps, so if for example you want to run a rinse-and-spin or spin-only, start with a fresh power-on, then press the Advance button a specific number of times to get to the required starting point. Perhaps a rinse/spin could be programmed on the Favorite button as an easy starting point, then for a spin-only you'd simply press the Advance button one time. Upon power-on the dryer starts at Regular cycle, sensor dry, normal dryness level. Fabric/Cycle selections are linear across the console like on the washer. The Air cycle automatically defaults to 80 mins of timed drying. All other cycles default to sensor dry, normal dryness. There is a pair of Up/Down buttons for five auto-dryness levels, and Up/Down buttons for choice of sensor dry or timed dry (80, 40, 20 mins). Both of these "raspberry" at the top and bottom of the selections. The dryness level buttons are active when sensor dry is selected, and inactive when a timed dry choice is selected. I think the machines will work very well for you!