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miele w1918 washer don't stop feeding water

12 years ago

Hi, I have Miele w1918 washer. It doesn't stop feeding water even when it's off. each time I have to close .the input valve. What can do to resolve this problem? thanks for your help.

Rab

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Comment (1)

liriodendron
12 years ago
Is it both hot and cold water, or just one line?

Probably doesn't make any difference, though. It sounds like a failed solenoid problem (though having both run would make me think it's a problem closer to the central electronic brains which would be more complicated).

Anywho - the water supply lines are controlled by electronic devices that tell them to turn on/off for certain predetermined periods within the selected cycles. It sounds like one (or both?) of the lines has got itself stuck in the ON position. It could be something simple enough to fix by just deconnecting and reconnecting the connectors, but it may be a busted solenoid that will have to be replaced. Doesn't sound like a big job - I know we would tackle it ourselves. The tricky part would be figuring out which part to order. Miele parts are not cheap, though may be more reasonable in Canada. Shipping/handling directly from Miele in the USA is extremely pricey. OTOH, you can (with a little effort) get through to very knowledgeable c/s people who will help you get what you need. I usually have to been a bit persistent about not wanting or needing a service call, but it's not hard to get beyond that, well, most of the time.

The good news is that the machines are quite easy and straightforward to work on - the Miele value of highly rational mechanical design is a joy to work with. A word to wise on Mieles: if what you think should be coming apart doesn't do so in a pretty easy way -STOP! You may be doing it wrong.

Identifying and getting the right part shouldn't be too hard. IIRC the solenoids and electronic water controlling harness are are easy to access. I have a 1986 apart in my garage right now and I can check tomorrow to see if you have to open the front to get the top off, or not. (I only opened it up a few months ago, but I'm sorry I've had other things on my mind lately and I can't quite recall.) The part may be a bit pricey (not this part in particular, just Miele parts aren't cheap!), but I don't think it's a death knell for your machine. Once fixed, it should go back to work for a long time.

It must be awfully hard to spin your clothes dry with the water running!

HTH.
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Nope, I run warm-to-hot cycles all the time and mine is only connected to the cold water line. This is very peculiar and I would like to figure out what you're seeing. The apparent problem was with the fill, not with the heater, right? But it filled when you only called for a cold wash. Very curious.....! I'm pretty sure that all 1918's can be configured to cold fill only. This is probably a really silly question, but when you had the splitter on you did have water supplying both inlets, not just the cold one? The splitter has to run from the cold line to both inlet ports in order for the machine to operate correctly. Or did the machine simply not take in any water from one leg of the splitter? That puzzles me. Are all four of your incoming water line filters clean? If you have another machine that needs hot water you'll need to connect it directly to the hot water line, then attach a splitter to the cold water line. One leg goes to your non-Miele machine's cold inlet, but then the other leg is split again and each of those legs is connected to the Miele. So you'll have to have two splitters to accomplish this. My set-up with Miele and Asko machines is like this: Cold water line attached to the first splitter, then one leg of the first splitter is split again and each of the two legs of the second splitter is attached to an incoming water line on the Miele. The second leg of the first splitter (still with me?) is attached to the Asko which has only one (cold) inlet. I also love the delay wash option, but find it important when doing a delayed wash to make sure the detergent tray is perfectly dry before putting the detergent in. If it's damp the detergent (I use powder) can get sticky and then not fully dump in the wash phase, causing poor rinsing when it finally dissolves in the rinses. I had never had a delay feature but find it much more useful than I imagined. I usually have a load set to finish when I get up; I find it jump starts the day's chores nicely. I'm pretty sure your machine can be set up like mine, we just need to figure it out. Molly~
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Yup, what James said! With the additional point that when it's correctly set up to choose a program it will flash at you in the 12 o'clock postion. I was also wondering if the child lock-out system had somehow been engaged. I've never fiddled around with it but perhaps it "kills" the machine, though I'll be switched if I know how you'd disenegage it to put things right. The other thing that occured to me was whether the cord from the machine was correctly attached. Do I recall that this machine was sold sans power cord and had to have one made and installed? (I could be thinking of another used 1918 purchaser, though.....) But if you did have a cord installed that would be where I'd double check as well. PS: Don't forget to examine all 4 incoming water filters - there's one on each end of each water line. This wouldn't affect a "dead" machine but if they have become clogged that will interfere with cycle progress once you get the thing going. I'm sorry you were not able to get the thing going promptly but I'm sure it can be worked out. Do you have a voltmeter electrical circuit testing thingy? That's the first thing my DH would get out to suss out where the power wasn't. I can ask him in the morning where he would be testing for this. Hope to hear it's getting sorted out. I'll keep an eye open for additional posts. MOlly~
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Well, Molly, for your sake I hope this kind of failure is very uncommon... certainly I never read or heard anything about it when I was researching the 1918. Still, Wikipedia does have this to say about pot metal: Pot metal can be prone to instability over time, as it has a tendency to bend, distort, crack, shatter, and pit with age.[1] The low boiling point of zinc and the fast cooling of the newly-cast part often allow air bubbles to remain within the cast part, weakening the metal. So I'm glad to have rid my 1918 of any such material. From what I was told, it is possible to tear down a 1918 drum and replace the inferior component with the w770 version, but that would involve a lot more fiddly disassembly. Worth noting if you can't find an older drum in working condition. The "hybrid" machine has done 10+ loads now... no leaks, no creaks, no squeaks, no 'unusual' anything.
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Well, Miele hose would be better than a garden variety one because I think it is better quality than plain jane black rubber. But the plain version will still deliver the water to your machine. I think you can also buy better quality washer inlet hoses at some stores. If you love your Miele 1918 as much as I love mine, you might want to treat it to the generic (non-Miele) version of the better quality hose. This is particularly true if you aren't in the habit of actually turning the water off at the tap between washing sessions. I do turn my tap off, but if I routinely left it on I would spring for the better hose as insurance against it bursting. I don't know if the threads of the hose end are some European version of standard hose thread. I know I have both of my hoses (both hot and cold lines) connected to a garden variety Y, that in turn is connected to my cold tap. It's been that way for well more than a decade and I haven't noticed any subtle leakage, so I rather think the hose threads match whatever is commonly found in the US. But yes, you do have to make sure you harvest then re-use (or buy new ones) the filters on both ends of both of the hoses. Sometimes the in-board one (meaning one closest to the machine) gets kind of stuck in the hose; sometimes it's stuck in the inlet itself. Just unscrew the (original) hose carefully and take the time to find - and extract - both sets of filter cones. You defintely do not want tiny bits iof pipe rust to get into the machine because it will irretrievably block some of the tiny little emitters that deliver water above the detergent drawer. Those emitters have specific moments when they deliver water during the various fill, pre-wash, and rinse cycles. Having them blocked is ore than just not gettng enough water. It's more about ot getting enough water at the right point in the cycle. Good luck. L.
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